Donic BlueFire M2 and M3 review

NextLevel wrote: Lestat wrote: NextLevel wrote: Lestat wrote: I've been playing M2 max for about 2 weeks on the FH and I've noticed I have to be very careful with bat angle otherwise it flies unusually high above the table. Most apparent when lifting long heavy underspin and at counter looping - in other words when I swing the hardest. Even if I get the angle wrong, it's not THAT wrong. Not 100% sure but my feeling is the rubber is bottoming out. Maybe you are lifting too much.  You might need a more horizontal stroke for the same bat angle. I am lifting too much, no doubt but there seems to be a cut off point after which the ball goes straight. And it's the counter looping too. I'll give it another couple weeks to see how it goes, I actually like the rubber. I'm having nowhere near the same issue with MX-P, it will dip no matter what - even if over the table. Curious what you are looking for in Bluefire that you can't get in MX-P - if it is short stroke spin, then that is the general tradeoff between harder and softer rubbers.  No rubber can do everything.

m2 has a lot of catapult, counterlooping at the table is difficult. you could try m3 on fh. I too might give it a try.

I tried m3 max on fh yesterday, on clipper wood. Previously I was using m2 2.0.

on that blade, m3 is great for counterloop, but has problems lifting backspin. Too much dwell time. Also the power to finish is barely enough. And there is a generalized spin loss (except in counterloop) with respect to m2. I think the reason is that m3 on that blade is just too soft and has too much dwell time; and this is killing spin for some reason.

The backspin lifting problem, and the spin loss, might disappear with 2.0, but then I am skeptical about the power. It could work though.

I think with a harder blade, such as clipper CR, m3 could be a very good choice on fh. In fact I tried a few loops with m3 on cr, and the dwell time was just right (whereas m2 had too little dwell). So if you use a hard and fast blade, try m3, but not max.


Edited by seguso - 06/06/2013 at 3:20am

Could you please advise which rubber to put on Maze

I am thinking of
For FH

Donic Bluefire M2
Nittaku Flyat sping
Donic baracuda

and BH
Donic s2 or baracuda
Nittaku Flyat soft
xiom vega euro df

tmham wrote: Baracuda is great for both BH and FH if you want control on spinny opening loops and flicks. Decent amount of speed for both wings could allow you to kill from mid-far distance on FH, but i suspect you would need solid BH technique to play away from the table with BH. I don't find it ideal for blocking on my FH but it could just be my technique, I find rubbers like MXP and Bluefire M1 great for active/passive blocks my FH and BH. I currently have baracuda on my ALC blade (like maze) for FH, plays well for me, but everyone is different (I'm somewhat more backhand oriented)

Thank you for your advise. As for BH power loops it is not about me. I am just mastering bh slow loops over the table. Need more control in close to the table game.

As for forehand I would like to have a possibility to easily start attacking on back spin chops both just low speed top spin and ability to kill from short distance.

Bluefire M1 will be too fast for me. I am more of looping player instead of drives and active blocks.

Btw how baracuda is playing with new plastic balls?
Also very interested in new Nittaku Flyatt spin for forehand and Nittaku Flyatt soft for backhand. Anybody played?

7homuz wrote: Opened a brand new sheet of M2, applied LKT water based glue on the blade and rubber, let it dry, but.... it's been an hour and it's still gooey on the M2 sponge. The glue worked okay on other rubbers I've glued lately, has anyone had this problem with gluing the M2? I'm guessing there might be a layer of oil or booster on the sponge that is not compatible with the glue?  Haven't put it on the blade yet because it just doesn't feel right.

Had it under the fan for 4 hours yesterday and was still super gooey. Cleaned it all off, let it dry for a few hours, and retried. Still super gooey. Cleaned it all off again and used a cleaner (unfortunately some VOC... luckily I won't be playing any contests within the next two months), cleaned off all the glue extremely thoroughly and let it sit overnight. This morning the sponge was clean, no expansion, no tack, wiped it down with some more towels just in case. Applied two layers of glue, much better but still detecting a tiny bit of gooey-ness i.e. won't completely set. Yesterday I tried the glue on another rubber again just to be sure it's not the glue and it glued fine. Anyway, I'm going to wait to see if it gets a bit better and see if it can stick to the blade to play. Hopefully it's okay as the goo is very very mild this time around, and I really don't want to put any more cleaners in contact with the sponge again as it's surely not going to do the sponge any good.