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Hurricane 3 Advice please

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patrickhrdlicka View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (1) Thanks(1)   Quote patrickhrdlicka Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11/27/2019 at 2:08am
Originally posted by DreiZ DreiZ wrote:

Originally posted by patrickhrdlicka patrickhrdlicka wrote:

I played with classic speed-glued rubbers during my childhood (Vario, Mark V, Visco), and usual suspects when I started playing again as a middle-aged guy (Tenergy, MX-P, etc...) before switching to H8 and then H3, and seem to be doing fine with it. I think it is all about style, adaptability and understanding how to contact the ball (brushing versus hitting into sponge). H3 offers the best value among all rubbers imo, especially because the topsheet as excellent durability in terms of grip, as long as it is properly stored and cleaned. Regular orange H3 commercial for practice play (have never had any bubbles), and blue H3 Nat'l for tournament play (bubbles only after extended periods of play, and typically only after converting tournament sheets to practice sheets), not or minimally boosted. Is it for everybody? Probably not, but is it possible to get used to it at a later stage in life and still improve.  

What made you go to h3 from h8?
i just bought few sheets of h8 just to see how it will play without booster.

Initially, I followed the recommendation of my 2500-level friend from China. I did some side-by-side testing and found that my opening loops were spinnier with H3 compared to H8. In addition, I felt like having a little bit more safety on loops, whereas H8 has an edge if power-looping from mid-distance. Other factors that contributed in making me feel comfortable with H3 is its lower weight, greater sponge selection, and slightly better topsheet consistency (I was put off by a couple of very "plasticky" H8 topsheets in latter batches). The rubber switch was also a step towards tweaking my playing style towards becoming a more traditional FH looper rather than a flat hitter.  

Truth be told, though, I would be able to play within 50 rating points with either rubber. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bars Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11/27/2019 at 3:24am
Originally posted by chop4ever chop4ever wrote:

Originally posted by fmarek fmarek wrote:


Can you explain the importance of proper gluing? Some people use multi-layer of glue to get more springiness out of setup. Booster also adds to the speed. What is the recommended way to glue boosted H3? Would you use both - boosting and thick glue or only one of these?

This is the matter of taste. And it must accompany with the blade and style.
For example, someone uses Viscaria, play close to the table, hit hard. He should use thick layer of glue + booster. Vice versa, a thin 5 flies blade doesn't need that thickness.




hi can you elaborate on this a bit. does the thick glue make it softer?more dwell? why would the other blade not want this also
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote acpoulos Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/01/2019 at 8:27pm
Boosted my new H3 Neo orange sponge with a small amount of Australian Tea Tree Oil (yes, you read that right). It soaked right in, and a few hours later the rubber domed up quite nicely. Will try it out Tuesday...
Tony
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote chop4ever Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/01/2019 at 10:53pm
Originally posted by acpoulos acpoulos wrote:

Boosted my new H3 Neo orange sponge with a small amount of Australian Tea Tree Oil (yes, you read that right). It soaked right in, and a few hours later the rubber domed up quite nicely. Will try it out Tuesday...

It is one of my secrete ingredient...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DreiZ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/02/2019 at 1:35am
Originally posted by chop4ever chop4ever wrote:

Originally posted by acpoulos acpoulos wrote:

Boosted my new H3 Neo orange sponge with a small amount of Australian Tea Tree Oil (yes, you read that right). It soaked right in, and a few hours later the rubber domed up quite nicely. Will try it out Tuesday...

It is one of my secrete ingredient...

probably smells better than any other booster out there!
"Don't be an EJ, don't be an EJ, don't be a... oh look a sale at tt11!"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mykonos96 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/02/2019 at 8:12am
Originally posted by chop4ever chop4ever wrote:

Originally posted by ericd937 ericd937 wrote:

The H3 Neo I received from him was sealed in original packaging. Just a commercial sheet as far as I could tell. 

As long as you use that one, you will find out its consistency and durability are so different from the others, even "NT or Prov" versions.
However, the original version (non-neo) is the best, as I only use the original one (and suggest to my students to use)

The secret is, non of actual pro Chinese players use the rubbers you could buy from the market, with the label "pro" and "NT".

The learning players (but their level is higher than everyone here) use "normal" H3
The provincial team players (their ranking is around 100 of the world ranking) use "normal" H3
The NT B team players use "normal" H3 sometimes.

So why the * a so low player on Earth is seeking for NT H3???

The main difference from the H3 using by Chinese players is, it has been chosen carefully by the coach among real H3 sheets.

There is nothing about booster.
But wrong booster will cause worse result.






How many provincial team level players are in china?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote acpoulos Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/02/2019 at 9:43am
Originally posted by DreiZ DreiZ wrote:

Originally posted by chop4ever chop4ever wrote:

Originally posted by acpoulos acpoulos wrote:

Boosted my new H3 Neo orange sponge with a small amount of Australian Tea Tree Oil (yes, you read that right). It soaked right in, and a few hours later the rubber domed up quite nicely. Will try it out Tuesday...

It is one of my secrete ingredient...


probably smells better than any other booster out there!


The stuff has a strong odor. Wife was giving me grief about it. She has absolutely no EJ blood in her. Seriously, I have used the Hurricane with 2 cuts on the package and 4 cuts and have always had good results boosting.
Tony
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tom Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/14/2019 at 10:41am
finally experimented with a commercial H3N without boosting - it plays fine but I suspect it is harder to win points as the balls are returned with greater regularity.   For practice or pure joy of rallying it let's you put more effort into the rallies while having great regularity.  The top sheet looks ugly compared to pro or national versions.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mykonos96 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/15/2019 at 6:01pm
Originally posted by tom tom wrote:

finally experimented with a commercial H3N without boosting - it plays fine but I suspect it is harder to win points as the balls are returned with greater regularity.   For practice or pure joy of rallying it let's you put more effort into the rallies while having great regularity.  The top sheet looks ugly compared to pro or national versions.


I cant glue a boosted H3 since it seems the harder the sponge the harder to attach it to the blade
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ProtossTT Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/15/2019 at 7:01pm
Originally posted by mykonos96 mykonos96 wrote:

Originally posted by tom tom wrote:

finally experimented with a commercial H3N without boosting - it plays fine but I suspect it is harder to win points as the balls are returned with greater regularity.   For practice or pure joy of rallying it let's you put more effort into the rallies while having great regularity.  The top sheet looks ugly compared to pro or national versions.


I cant glue a boosted H3 since it seems the harder the sponge the harder to attach it to the blade


You need to wait for it to fully dry it takes about a week on average. I rush and only wait 4 days while blow drying it every day for a few hours. Then glue it on with a foam brush from any arts and craft store. Do a quick layer blow dry it then add another. Repeat for 3 layers total. Place a cutting mat and get a roller or object to roll your rubber with then start from bottom slowly rolling it on. You can place it under a book or heavy object in case it doesn't stick 100%. Once it's on you need to have a good practice session with it then if you still don't like it or it has dead spots simply remove and take off the glue layer. Reglue and roll back on
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tom Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/15/2019 at 9:51pm
Originally posted by mykonos96 mykonos96 wrote:

Originally posted by tom tom wrote:

finally experimented with a commercial H3N without boosting - it plays fine but I suspect it is harder to win points as the balls are returned with greater regularity.   For practice or pure joy of rallying it let's you put more effort into the rallies while having great regularity.  The top sheet looks ugly compared to pro or national versions.


I cant glue a boosted H3 since it seems the harder the sponge the harder to attach it to the blade
I think a booster will  either make the sponge softer or the same and not harder. Am I wrong?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ProtossTT Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/15/2019 at 9:53pm
Originally posted by tom tom wrote:

Originally posted by mykonos96 mykonos96 wrote:

Originally posted by tom tom wrote:

finally experimented with a commercial H3N without boosting - it plays fine but I suspect it is harder to win points as the balls are returned with greater regularity.   For practice or pure joy of rallying it let's you put more effort into the rallies while having great regularity.  The top sheet looks ugly compared to pro or national versions.


I cant glue a boosted H3 since it seems the harder the sponge the harder to attach it to the blade
I think a booster will  either make the sponge softer or the same and not harder. Am I wrong?

It makes it softer but most people use 40+ degrees h3 neos and then boost to keep the control yet make it much spinnier than per se a normal not boosted h3 neo. Also if you boost a normal 39 degrees or 37 it's too mushy for fh usually. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tom Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/15/2019 at 10:08pm
Originally posted by ProtossTT ProtossTT wrote:

Originally posted by tom tom wrote:

Originally posted by mykonos96 mykonos96 wrote:

Originally posted by tom tom wrote:

finally experimented with a commercial H3N without boosting - it plays fine but I suspect it is harder to win points as the balls are returned with greater regularity.   For practice or pure joy of rallying it let's you put more effort into the rallies while having great regularity.  The top sheet looks ugly compared to pro or national versions.


I cant glue a boosted H3 since it seems the harder the sponge the harder to attach it to the blade
I think a booster will  either make the sponge softer or the same and not harder. Am I wrong?

It makes it softer but most people use 40+ degrees h3 neos and then boost to keep the control yet make it much spinnier than per se a normal not boosted h3 neo. Also if you boost a normal 39 degrees or 37 it's too mushy for fh usually. 
I said the above because I didn't really understand what Mykonos is saying - if he can't glue a boosted H3 means he can't attached a H3 (unboosted) at all (by his statement)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ProtossTT Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/15/2019 at 10:13pm
Oh lol makes sense. Yeah that's kind of odd the harder the sponge the harder it is to attach?.....
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote chop4ever Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/16/2019 at 8:10pm
Originally posted by ProtossTT ProtossTT wrote:

Oh lol makes sense. Yeah that's kind of odd the harder the sponge the harder it is to attach?.....

Depends on the using glue
booster name
sealant layer of blade
hardness of your rubber

for example

BTY glue + Falco Long + Thick sealant, on any 39 degrees H3 which cause <15 degrees dome --> you can't glue it on the blade, impossible

FineZip + TRF or Nittaku Axel Speed + no sealant. Any D42 H3 could work, even >30 degrees dome.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ProtossTT Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/16/2019 at 8:13pm
That makes no sense. Most water based glues are the same. Some are thicker like the finezip and rev 3 thicker version. It domes because it's not dry yet and because of the booster sinking into the sponge. It doesn't stay domed forever. Falco just takes a long ass time to undone a bit. Hence why I blow dry it to dry the oil faster.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ProtossTT Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/16/2019 at 8:15pm
There's also another reason behind that being you over boosted and it's just insanely curling. Also even if it's domed you need at least 3 layers of glue to make sure it doesn't come off. 1 thin layer and dry it fast. Then a thicker layer dry it fast. Finally 1 final thick layer and dry. After that just roll it on slowly onto the blade face. It'll be bouncy for a few sessions if you roll it on while it's domed but once you break it in it disappears
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ProtossTT Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/16/2019 at 8:49pm
Of all those I tried I hate the butterfly chack 2 and 3 worst glues to deal with. I've been using donic vario, neottec, finezip, rev 3, Falco optium, gewo hydrotec, and DHS no15. They all worked fine with boosters. Now note some of these are thinner, but if gave me no issues
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