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Attention: All Single Ply Hinoki Club Members |
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shinshiro
Super Member Joined: 09/21/2016 Location: Brazil Status: Offline Points: 243 |
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Only an update here:
The worst nightmare for a 1 ply hinoki user has hapenned to me... Yes...I split my blade in two...and only on my 3th training... Between one exercise and another, I accidentally dropped my blade from a little above the table level, and it split. Even with rubbers on both sides and expoy on edges, it has split... (I put some force into the blade to show where it split. Without force, the split is discrete) If there is someone who already had the same experience, I'm open to suggestions to how to repair it. I also e-mailed Kevin to see if he can give me some advices. Sorry to detour a little from the thread...
Edited by shinshiro - 03/31/2017 at 12:02pm |
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Chairman Meow
Super Member Joined: 10/04/2016 Location: Hell, Michigan Status: Offline Points: 290 |
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You can use a thin layer of epoxy to put it back together- make sure you use something like a vise to hold it in place and with constant pressure. If excess epoxy comes out of the crack, you can gently sand it off. You also have to make sure to keep the larger splinters that may come off to preserve the continuity and evenness of the blade.
To prevent future splits, you can put edge tape on your paddle and then some foam mounting tape on that. This only adds 1-3 grams. I have even seen people use RTV silicone, although this is heavier. I personally use the foam mounting tape method, and add an eighth-inch thick layer of industrial shock absorbing rubber on top. It's pretty much bulletproof, but very heavy. Edited by Chairman Meow - 03/31/2017 at 3:12pm |
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-1 ply Cypress 11.5mm "The Castigator"
-H3 Prov. Blue Sponge 2.2mm 41 deg. -H3 Prov. Orange Sponge 2.1mm 37 deg |
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DLC1325
Silver Member Joined: 02/15/2016 Location: USA Status: Offline Points: 713 |
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I only have condolences to offer, shinshiro!
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Tinykin
Platinum Member Joined: 10/30/2003 Location: England Status: Offline Points: 2331 |
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Same thing happened to my Ahinoki WRC. My wood turner friend glued it back together. It had no effect on the playing characteristics that I could discern.
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Blade: Butterfly Revoldia CNF - FH: Butterfly Dignics 05, BH: Butterfly Dignics 05
Delusion is an asset |
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DLC1325
Silver Member Joined: 02/15/2016 Location: USA Status: Offline Points: 713 |
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I got a 1-ply Bamboo blade from Kevin and it is quite awesome! I know it isn't hinoki, but it is 1-ply from American Hinoki.
I'm actually putting it up for sale on the forum only because I fell in love with my Waldner JO shape. |
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kakapo
Premier Member Joined: 02/24/2013 Location: Mordor Status: Offline Points: 3429 |
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Some 1 ply Hinoki BTY JPen blades.
Edited by kakapo - 06/11/2017 at 2:34pm |
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Def play grey grip 94gr, Venus 2 blue 2,2, Neubauer KO extreme 1,3mm
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photino
Super Member Joined: 06/17/2012 Location: US Status: Offline Points: 179 |
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great collection, i have four of them....
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EJ-turned blade collector
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tiehwen
Premier Member Joined: 11/22/2006 Location: Bukan Bumiputra Status: Offline Points: 6434 |
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kakapo is LOADED.
He isn't even a Jpen-er. Damn... Edited by tiehwen - 06/11/2017 at 3:17pm |
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soung1234
Beginner Joined: 06/12/2017 Location: Australia Status: Offline Points: 4 |
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I was looking at the RSM Max/G-Max, looks like there are two versions of each. Some have different logos, and some have a dot on the handle... What's the difference?
I found this link, if anyone can translate Chinese... http://www.butterfly-china.com/cn/?p=42&a=view&r=185 |
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onehander
Member Joined: 07/17/2015 Location: CA Status: Offline Points: 71 |
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The one with a dot is the later version. The dot is an anti-counterfeiting hologram. When Butterfly stopped sponsoring Ryu Seung Min, the very latest version is Cypress G-Max.
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soung1234
Beginner Joined: 06/12/2017 Location: Australia Status: Offline Points: 4 |
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I see... Is there any way of verifying it's a genuine blade if it doesn't have the dot? |
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onehander
Member Joined: 07/17/2015 Location: CA Status: Offline Points: 71 |
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This is from Butterfly North America website. Apparently it's not enough, so they created the hologram dot.
CLUES FOR BLADESCareful, fake products are sometimes more difficult to identify as such when it comes to blades. Counterfeit blades are often of lesser craftsmanship and value – but it can take a keen eye to find the clues. Fakes become rather obvious though at the table – Butterfly blades have unique playing characteristics that no counterfeit products can match. The Coloring In the picture above we see an original blade (right) and a fake Zhang Jike FL blade (left). The fake blade is lighter (due to inexpensive veneers) with a less even and darker shade of blue on the grip and the print. The print itself is minutely slanted. Fake lens on the left – Original on the right The Bottom Lens The picture above serves as an example of lesser workmanship. The lens of the fake blade (left) is less intricate plate and glued on the bottom of the blade. The original lens (right) is made from brushed aluminum and integrated firmly into the handle. Only obvious in use: Playing characteristics Sometimes counterfeits can be more difficult to spot. The next example shows a Zhang Jike Super ZLC blade sent back by a customer disappointed by the performance of this product. Fake blade may look good, but they always feel “liveless” compared to genuine Butterfly blades. Butterfly blades consist of hand-selected wooden veneers that are specifically designed to work in combination with each other to create a certain feel and character of every blade. A fake blade will never match these characteristics. Fake Blade – no such serial number The Serial Number Imprinted on all Japanese blades is a serial code. This code entails information on the production dates and parameters. Any certified Butterfly partner or retailer will be able to provide you with information regarding the authenticity of a serial number. The serial number in the left picture is plain faked – it does not exist. Fake Blade – no such serial number Print or Sticker? Watch for the graphic design Above we see a counterfeit Zhang Jike Super ZLC blade, bought at a fraction of the price for the original blade. Needless to say, the customer was disappointed and showed this blade to us, which we could quickly identify as a fake. Note the structure of the lens on the handle compared to the original on the right. The print looks like a sticker and is mirror inverted and slightly slanted. The coloring is close, but not the same as on the original. Original Zhang Jike Super ZLC Often with fakes, we notice the print on the blade to be visibly just a sticker (which may be slanted – just like here). On genuine blades, the logo and graphics are printed onto the blade. |
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wappak
Member Joined: 05/05/2019 Location: rising sun Status: Offline Points: 62 |
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can i join this club? heres mine pp taiwan yellow cypress 8mm, this hinoki blade is hard compared to other hinoki but still has that hinoki feel on it.
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21saves
Beginner Joined: 05/27/2020 Location: Singapore Status: Offline Points: 3 |
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Hi Wappak, looks like this club is somewhat inactive in the last few years.
Anyway, I have also recently bought a few hinoki blades - Darker90, and Armstrong Apex21, after hearing so much good stuff about 1-ply hinoki. I plan to put my newly bought Rakza7 max (FH) on Darker90. Just want to ask for advise whether is it ok to put a max thickness rubber on 1-ply hinkoi? |
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Magic_M
Platinum Member Joined: 05/31/2012 Location: Germany Status: Offline Points: 2217 |
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I also bought a nice Kiso-Hinoki 1-ply a few days ago
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21saves
Beginner Joined: 05/27/2020 Location: Singapore Status: Offline Points: 3 |
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Wow, yours is the very high quality one - Imperial Hinoki, must have cost you a bomb :)
I bought the normal JPen Speed 90 version as it's my first 1-ply hinoki. I also bought the Kase grip version of Apex21, to try and train my RPB.
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Chairman Meow
Super Member Joined: 10/04/2016 Location: Hell, Michigan Status: Offline Points: 290 |
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It's really personal preference but Rakza 7 is a somewhat fast and bouncy rubber, so it could be difficult to control. You can glue the rubber on without cutting and bounce it around a few times to make sure it's something you can play with.
On another note, I'm really jealous of that Darker single ply. Unfortunately I can't bring myself to spend more than $100 on a blade (and 10mm shakehand is harder to find), so I have to resort to making my own with nowhere near the skills of some of the professionals on this forum.
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-1 ply Cypress 11.5mm "The Castigator"
-H3 Prov. Blue Sponge 2.2mm 41 deg. -H3 Prov. Orange Sponge 2.1mm 37 deg |
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21saves
Beginner Joined: 05/27/2020 Location: Singapore Status: Offline Points: 3 |
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Chairman Meow - yes, this is precise my concern that max Rakza7 could be too fast and bouncy on a single-ply hinoki.
The alternative for me is to stick to my all time favorite rubber Fastarc G1, black 2.0mm, that has a good balance of power and control. It is just that a few month ago, I tried Rakza7 using my friend's carbon blade and was surprised that it enabled me to play a much more aggressive and attacking game. Maybe Rakza7 max would pair better on a carbon blade and not so good on one-ply hinoki? What do you think?
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Chairman Meow
Super Member Joined: 10/04/2016 Location: Hell, Michigan Status: Offline Points: 290 |
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I haven't played with Rakza 7, so I can't speak from experience. However, it will assuredly feel quite different than how it felt on a carbon blade. If you have any used sheets of rubber you know well lying around (an old Fastarc maybe), you could glue one on the one-ply and see how it plays. That could help you extrapolate the behavior of the blade to Rakza 7, since Fastarc is similar in hardness and 'type'. Every one-ply is different and every person's preferences and playstyle are different, so you really should give it a try with a rubber you are familiar with to isolate how the single ply changes the characteristics.
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-1 ply Cypress 11.5mm "The Castigator"
-H3 Prov. Blue Sponge 2.2mm 41 deg. -H3 Prov. Orange Sponge 2.1mm 37 deg |
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