Stiga Clipper & Stiga Clippa

I have been taking lessons from Shao Yu since i have converted to short pips on the backhand. Shao recommended i should try Stiga clippa short pips. This is the short pips he uses on his backhand and I tried using his racket for about 5 minutes and i felt i had alot more control when hitting backhand. His setup is DHS Hurricane forehand, Stiga Clippa backhand and Stiga Clipper Oversized blade(not produced anymore).  The stiga clippa pips itself feels alot more softer compared to the Adidas Spin blaze that i am presently using. So since i am going to purchase/try the Stiga Clippa, i might as well try the Stiga clipper blade too. I see on the online sites there is 4 versions of the Clipper blade and dont want to buy all 4 versions. I am turning to the online community for help. Which version of the Clipper blade do you recommend and what is the differences in your opinion.

If you want something similar to his blade, I would go for the Clipper Wood WRB, although I am personally not a fan of hollow handles and I would personally recommend the Clipper Classic.

Softer and slower blades will generally have more arc than harder and faster blades.  

I was about to suggest the W7, but if you're not looking for BTY, perhaps try the YES?  Similar construction, but thinner at 6.3mm with walnut instead of limba outer plies.  I'm also certain Nittaku has something but I am not too familiar with their blades...

schen wrote: Softer and slower blades will generally have more arc than harder and faster blades.   You may actually find you have a bigger arc with the CC though because of the softer feel and non-cr treated wood.  It's a bit tricky to explain but the harder wood of the CR will probably give you better touch, but the CC will give you better control and arc for your offensive shots.

Just FYI it's hard to learn how to create the kind of fast arcing offensive shot characteristic of >2k players using a faster blade. Any sort of speed in the blade makes controlling the degree of contact at low angles quite finicky. Good players/coaches can use those equipment because, well, they're already good and likely had some talent; and they probably don't recognize the difficulty for those who aren't.

For the OP's original concern, it's odd that someone is choosing a blade just for the BH SP.

Usually SP on BH are a result of a stylistic choice to play off the bounce. It makes the BH counter simple & direct, but the primary offensive point-scoring mech is still the FH.

Unless someone is just giving up on topspin arc, getting hard thick woods because they feel a certain way seems shortsighted.

AgentHEX wrote: For the OP's original concern, it's odd that someone is choosing a blade just for the BH SP. Usually SP on BH are a result of a stylistic choice to play off the bounce. It makes the BH counter simple & direct, but the primary offensive point-scoring mech is still the FH. Unless someone is just giving up on topspin arc, getting hard thick woods because they feel a certain way seems shortsighted.

This is actually quite reasonable, but speaking for myself, I never found a Clipper to be that hard and stiff, although it's been a long time since I tried one, I remember that it certainly allowed for execution of a good forehand.

Coming from 5-ply allwood.   I certainly feel that Clipper Wood is stiff yet soft.   I needed to adjust my strokes a bit.  In the beginning, I played worse with it.

But Persson Powerplay and Avalox P700 are not that bad (I did not need to adjust at all because they behave much like 5-ply).

Clipper is known to be suitable for pips.

Wang Tao used P700 if I am not mistaken.


Edited by doraemon - 01/13/2015 at 11:59pm

Baal wrote: AgentHEX wrote: For the OP's original concern, it's odd that someone is choosing a blade just for the BH SP. Usually SP on BH are a result of a stylistic choice to play off the bounce. It makes the BH counter simple & direct, but the primary offensive point-scoring mech is still the FH. Unless someone is just giving up on topspin arc, getting hard thick woods because they feel a certain way seems shortsighted. This is actually quite reasonable, but speaking for myself, I never found a Clipper to be that hard and stiff, although it's been a long time since I tried one, I remember that it certainly allowed for execution of a good forehand.

Due to my back issues,its a personal choice to play short pips on my backhand and i find playing with short pips a challenge. But this challenge is making me happy and excited to play again. I find myself getting better bit by bit every week even though i only play 1 to 2 times a week. I have played with allround soft woods blades since i was 12 years old. Now that i am 42 years young and on my 3rd comeback, i certainly prefer harder woods even though it may be at the cost of arc and control...Its the Speed Freak in Me... But i am trying to curb the Speed Freak in me by going to a slower setup.

One of the main reasons i am changing from the Adidas Strike Carbon/Adidas Spin Blaze pips to the Stiga Clipper/Stiga Clippa pips is due to the overall softer pips of Clippa and more control with the Clippa blade. I am having issues with my banana backhand flips and my opening bh return loops. Yes, you can still loop with short pips(Shao Yu shows me every week it can be done...lol)

Still dont know if i prefer the CC or the CR

For some perspective, OFF blades are maybe 25% faster for hitting than ALL, whereas good attackers prolly have >twice the handspeed of passable club player. But that same 25% more finesse necessary for those spin shots is much harder to overcome unless you have the talent and put in the hours of a pro.

If someone has injury issues it might change things, but for everyone else without the natural ability to loop well there is a easier way to go about learning it.


Edited by AgentHEX - 01/14/2015 at 1:40am

2.0mm seems to be the thickness of choice for most offensive players using Clippa.