Do you varnish your blade?

Yes it is. It's essential that you varnish/seal your blade if you're using water based glue. If you don't the water in the wated based glue gets into the top layers of wood and wrecks it completely.

It doesn't alter the feeling of it.

Completely worth it. It also ensures that most of the glue residue is left on the rubber so it's easy to peel off.

Sealing is a must if using water based glues.

I use Xiom I-Sure, 2 coats is all you need.

I have used water based varnish in the past - a thin layer is all you need.  If the blades are already factory sealed, you probably don't want to add any more sealants.

Factory sealed blades are a rarity. The only ones that I know on top of my head are Yasaka's Ma Lin extra offensive and some Stiga nanotech blades. Both are done to increase stiffness and not for the same reason why most players do it: to protect the wood.   

Does rubber cement also peel off easily after a coat of minwax polyurethane?

I dont varnish, rubber cement doesnt splinter the blade, but I used hair spray when I speed glued

I would suggest that member NOT confuse varnishing with sealing.
IMO, varnishing is slapping on a thick coating or varnish.
Sealing is rubbing in enough poly or similar to bond the top-plies to hold them together when removing rubbers and to prevent moisture to get in there to warp the blade.

And . . . having said all this . . . there are many levels in between Varnishing and Sealing.

IMO, you MUST seal EVERY blade made of wood. It just depends on how much.

Hairspray is better than nothing, but I never could see the sense of using a temporary sealant. Just rub a VERY thin coat of the real stuff into the top ply. The amount of protection you get from one-coat greatly outweighs any, if any, loss of feel. BUT, this is all just MO. However, if your blade is special or expensive or both . . . don't risk losing it. :-).

Admittedly, I have gone sealant crazy on a few. The sure looked nice and I could sit my water glass on them in between matches.

So all the products (Joola varnish, donic varnish, etc) are to varnish the blade instead of sealing it?

where is here, lol, I have university to attend, lol

ffx-me wrote: Oh I didnt know that, never had a stiga blade.  Many people said that hair spray was a good (one time) varnish

Yes, Stiga blades have horrible qualities.

I highly recommend sealing.  I use Yes! paste for gluing and can just rub a little water on my blade and wipe off with a towel after 30 seconds - stays on the surface and doesn't get into the wood.  Won't change the characteristics with a few layers - put more on if you want to harden the blade up and add speed ;)

When you get a new blade ,spend a few minutes on it with some fine grain sandpaper.  Do the edges, the surface, get it super smooth, you'll be amazed at the difference.  Then put a few layers on the edge, 1-2 on each face, really helps protect the blade, and looks beautiful.

tdragon wrote: ffx-me wrote: Oh I didnt know that, never had a stiga blade.  Many people said that hair spray was a good (one time) varnish Yes, Stiga blades have horrible qualities. But sealing the blade would make the blade harder and the blade would loss some feel as well. So pros vs cons

tdragon, HUGE RESPECT FOR YOU and you are right . . . pros and cons.

With sealing, I think it also depends on what kind of blade we're talking about. The 1-ply hinokis and other hard fast blades seem unaffected. Admittedly, a soft blade with lots of flex will be more effected, but a little sealant can go a long way. One blade that nearly everyone swears is affected by sealant is the Acoustic, which defies my theory. Yet, all in all, I HIGHLY recommend sealing, even if only a pinch to:

1. Protect the top ply from splintering.
2. Protect the logo.
3. Protect from glue getting absorbed into the wood.
4. Make rubber changing easier.
5. Protect the blade from warping due to moisture.
6. Some argue the sweet spot is expanded and more consistency is gained. ??

schumi27 wrote: Is it worth? Does it alter the feeling of it? Thanks

Hello all... I sealed ALL my blades.  I have been asked this question in the past, and how here we go again. 

Here are the list I have tried:

1. Joola Vanish - I have used this and still have a bottle of this.  It's ok, but it's so so thin of a varnish that you need to do couple of times to see you have something on the blade.  If you put too much at one time, you will end up wasting it because you need to wipe it with a clean cloth to make the surface smooth.  The brush comes with this is ridiculously small.  It will take you forever to varnish your blade with this brush.


2. Painter's Touch - I once saw someone in my club use this to varnish his blade.  Well, this is very bad.  DO NOT use it.  I tried it, and it left an even surface even though I use a sponge to wipe it right after I applied the varnish on the blade.  Again, it's not good.


3. Minwax Polyurethane - As some of you mentioned, this is very good to use.  When you get this, remember to buy the satin, don't get the semi-gloss or gloss, you will have a hard time to glue your rubbers on your blade.  I have used it for about a year, and I discovered there is something else better.


4. Cabot Polyurethane - It's also Polyurethane.  This is the best one so far that I have used.  So, what are the differences between the Cabot and Minwax?  Well, Minwax has strong gasoline smell.  Cabot is thinner, and it's easier to smoothen the surface of your blade.


In addition, please do not use hairspray.  Hairspray is designed for your hair, not for wood.  Common sense, right?

I hope this helps everyone...