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Quick way to Gain 500 Usatt Points!

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Rich215 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rich215 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/12/2010 at 1:25pm
Originally posted by mhnh007 mhnh007 wrote:

Originally posted by evilelf2407 evilelf2407 wrote:

I read some of the responses, but there were a lot, its finals week, and im tired as hell, so im speaking from experience as a usatt 2000 player.

i used to play with a sh*tty balsa blade back when i was 1200, this got me to 1600. i switched to sriver on both sides, offensive classic (a lot slower setup), and got to 1800. when I reached 1800 i switched to a faster setup (tenergy, JO platin soft, and still OC blade), and now im 2000. I'm a two winged looper so it fits my style.

thats a little background on me, heres my experience playing 1200-2200 players:

anyone above 1800 is a respectable table tennis player. sorry to those below that, and i sptne a few years below 1800, but if a bystander who does not play table tennis watches a match between two 1700 players, they will not be impressed. a match between 1900, they will be impressed. 1800 is the cutoff between me going easy on you, or trying my hardest.

nobody should be worrying about fast equipment if you are below 1900 usatt. above 1900, you start worrying about having to hit harder, more consistently, and more spin... below 1800, i can beat you without playing offense, because you make more mistakes than winners. You may hit a winner shot every 5 shots, but the rest of the match i can move you around, block you down, and let you make mistakes. if you are a little better, i can send a slow loop your way, and you'll give me an easy 5th that i can smash. another thign ive noticed, <1800 you have no short game. sorry, but its true. if you serve me short, i can drop it short, and you'll push it long. ive yet to play someone below 1800 that has a respectable short game. this also applies to serve return...both something that i blame on lack of practice, and equipment that is too fast.

that is my personal experience. ive had so many beginners (1000-1200) players come to me and ask me what equipment i use, and i almost dont want to tell them, because ik they'll try it, and a) its an expensive setup, and b) it will not suit their game
+1. You speak the truth...  BTW - how long does it take you to go over the hump, and what did you do to get over it?  Thks,


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote evilelf2407 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/12/2010 at 1:30pm
do you mean the 1800 hump? or the 2000 hump?

to go from 1600-->1800. mostly just being more consistent. Slowed my game down, didn't try to end the point right away. I had the mindset for a while that I should try to keep the ball in play for at least 5 shots. This would work against people lower than me because they'd make mistakes before i did. i also got more consistent at 3rd ball-- not hitting harder, but not missing much because of my mistakes. if someone were to push to me, i was able to open up and get them blocking 7/10 times.

2000 was a great moment, as it was my goal since i started playing to reach 2000. serve, serve return, and again being more consistent. players that used to beat me when i was 1800 because of bad consistency (blockers, defensive players, etc), can rarely beat me now because i'm more consistent. I still don't hit nearly as hard as i could, and thats something i want to work on this summer (power), but i dont need to because i can outlast people. i also have been working a lot on my footwork so i am in position for any ball that is returned. i tell my friend who is 1600 right now that he needs to slow down and work on footwork, serve, and serve return; the three most important aspects of the game in my opinion.

anyone that skipped all that:
SERVE
SERVE RETURN
FOOTWORK

you don't need power shots to win at the <2000 level. in fact, i would say you don't need power shots to win until you reach >2200, but i'm not that advanced yet so i won't speak for those players.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mhnh007 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/12/2010 at 1:45pm
I mean the 1800 hump.  The exact 3 things that you list are the exact 3 things I am working on, Serve return is what what cause me to loose game now though.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote icontek Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/12/2010 at 1:51pm
Originally posted by evilelf2407 evilelf2407 wrote:

I read some of the responses, but there were a lot, its finals week, and im tired as hell, so im speaking from experience as a usatt 2000 player.

i used to play with a sh*tty balsa blade back when i was 1200, this got me to 1600. i switched to sriver on both sides, offensive classic (a lot slower setup), and got to 1800. when I reached 1800 i switched to a faster setup (tenergy, JO platin soft, and still OC blade), and now im 2000. I'm a two winged looper so it fits my style.

thats a little background on me, heres my experience playing 1200-2200 players:

anyone above 1800 is a respectable table tennis player. sorry to those below that, and i sptne a few years below 1800, but if a bystander who does not play table tennis watches a match between two 1700 players, they will not be impressed. a match between 1900, they will be impressed. 1800 is the cutoff between me going easy on you, or trying my hardest.

nobody should be worrying about fast equipment if you are below 1900 usatt. above 1900, you start worrying about having to hit harder, more consistently, and more spin... below 1800, i can beat you without playing offense, because you make more mistakes than winners. You may hit a winner shot every 5 shots, but the rest of the match i can move you around, block you down, and let you make mistakes. if you are a little better, i can send a slow loop your way, and you'll give me an easy 5th that i can smash. another thign ive noticed, <1800 you have no short game. sorry, but its true. if you serve me short, i can drop it short, and you'll push it long. ive yet to play someone below 1800 that has a respectable short game. this also applies to serve return...both something that i blame on lack of practice, and equipment that is too fast.

that is my personal experience. ive had so many beginners (1000-1200) players come to me and ask me what equipment i use, and i almost dont want to tell them, because ik they'll try it, and a) its an expensive setup, and b) it will not suit their game
 
Great post!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ajchien Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/12/2010 at 7:53pm
Originally posted by icontek icontek wrote:

Originally posted by evilelf2407 evilelf2407 wrote:

I read some of the responses, but there were a lot, its finals week, and im tired as hell, so im speaking from experience as a usatt 2000 player.

i used to play with a sh*tty balsa blade back when i was 1200, this got me to 1600. i switched to sriver on both sides, offensive classic (a lot slower setup), and got to 1800. when I reached 1800 i switched to a faster setup (tenergy, JO platin soft, and still OC blade), and now im 2000. I'm a two winged looper so it fits my style.

thats a little background on me, heres my experience playing 1200-2200 players:

anyone above 1800 is a respectable table tennis player. sorry to those below that, and i sptne a few years below 1800, but if a bystander who does not play table tennis watches a match between two 1700 players, they will not be impressed. a match between 1900, they will be impressed. 1800 is the cutoff between me going easy on you, or trying my hardest.

nobody should be worrying about fast equipment if you are below 1900 usatt. above 1900, you start worrying about having to hit harder, more consistently, and more spin... below 1800, i can beat you without playing offense, because you make more mistakes than winners. You may hit a winner shot every 5 shots, but the rest of the match i can move you around, block you down, and let you make mistakes. if you are a little better, i can send a slow loop your way, and you'll give me an easy 5th that i can smash. another thign ive noticed, <1800 you have no short game. sorry, but its true. if you serve me short, i can drop it short, and you'll push it long. ive yet to play someone below 1800 that has a respectable short game. this also applies to serve return...both something that i blame on lack of practice, and equipment that is too fast.

that is my personal experience. ive had so many beginners (1000-1200) players come to me and ask me what equipment i use, and i almost dont want to tell them, because ik they'll try it, and a) its an expensive setup, and b) it will not suit their game
 
Great post!
 
I guess evilelf and i play about the same level. Although I am in complete agreement with him, I must add that 2200 level players say the same about 2000 level players. 2000 players lack the short game and lack the consistency to compete against the 2200's. lol.  And the same is likely to be said of 2200 players by 2500 players.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Speedplay Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/12/2010 at 8:01pm
Originally posted by ajchien ajchien wrote:

I guess evilelf and i play about the same level. Although I am in complete agreement with him, I must add that 2200 level players say the same about 2000 level players. 2000 players lack the short game and lack the consistency to compete against the 2200's. lol. �And the same is likely to be said of 2200 players by 2500 players.


+1

I think most of us are like this, it is so easy to look down the gradings and look at their faults, while we think our own level is good enough to understand the game and be able to play it at a reasonable level.

As I'm not in the US, neither have I played any (well, one actually, but lets forget that) US based players, so I don't know anything about the Usatt rating, but from watching the videos, I would say that I don't start to look advanced until after the 2200 level. But, I'm the first to admit, it is very hard to judge level by watching a video, as many other factors come in to play. Look at Pushblockers video against Schlager, PB hardly looks like a 2200 rated player in that one and if we didn't know about Schlagers ability, we would probably judge PB as a noob. Knowing about Schlagers level makes us aware that he could make us all look like noobs.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote icontek Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/13/2010 at 11:25am
Originally posted by Speedplay Speedplay wrote:

PB hardly looks like a 2200 rated player in that one and if we didn't know about Schlagers ability, we would probably judge PB as a noob. Knowing about Schlagers level makes us aware that he could make us all look like noobs.


This is just it. Schlager controlled the points.

And while professionals like Schlager, aspiring olympians, US2000+ (2200?) offensive attackers and the lucky folks who have been formally trained as juniors might actually benefit from OFF+ blades and rubbers; those same tools in the hands of people who play at US800-1500 tend to reinforce inconsistency and unforced errors.

Control (over your equipment) translates well into Control (over your strokes) which translates well into Control (over your shots).

Ultimately these things allow you to Control (the point).


Which leads me to a question:

At this beginning/intermediate level - who else uses the blade inspection portion of the match to guide what tactics to try in game 1 and two?

At this level if I see OFF+ equipment, I play a lot of short and dead, knowing that they likely won't have a consistent flip. And more than speed - I also focus on producing heavy spin on loops and pushes, knowing that low dwell and fast rubbers means that their strokes have to be that much more grooved and precise to counter the spin. And, because those blades require very well developed touch to consistently push safe, I can frequently bait those players into popping up for easy pick hits.

And while I could simply serve long and then battle it out with forehand drives at a mid distance, (and possibly lose the point) - if my opponent wants to play at being a US1200 mid distance powerlooper, they have to demonstrate that they have the shortgame, shotmaking and control to setup up that type of game.

As a result, several players now have the attitude of "I could beat that guy, but he's too much of a coward to battle it out like a man"...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BMonkey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/13/2010 at 11:38am
Originally posted by icontek icontek wrote:

Originally posted by Speedplay Speedplay wrote:

PB hardly looks like a 2200 rated player in that one and if we didn't know about Schlagers ability, we would probably judge PB as a noob. Knowing about Schlagers level makes us aware that he could make us all look like noobs.


This is just it. Schlager controlled the points.

And while professionals like Schlager, aspiring olympians, US2000+ (2200?) offensive attackers and the lucky folks who have been formally trained as juniors might actually benefit from OFF+ blades and rubbers; those same tools in the hands of people who play at US800-1500 tend to reinforce inconsistency and unforced errors.

Control (over your equipment) translates well into Control (over your strokes) which translates well into Control (over your shots).

Ultimately these things allow you to Control (the point).


Which leads me to a question:

At this beginning/intermediate level - who else uses the blade inspection portion of the match to guide what tactics to try in game 1 and two?

At this level if I see OFF+ equipment, I play a lot of short and dead, knowing that they likely won't have a consistent flip. And more than speed - I also focus on producing heavy spin on loops and pushes, knowing that low dwell and fast rubbers means that their strokes have to be that much more grooved and precise to counter the spin. And, because those blades require very well developed touch to consistently push safe, I can frequently bait those players into popping up for easy pick hits.

And while I could simply serve long and then battle it out with forehand drives at a mid distance, (and possibly lose the point) - if my opponent wants to play at being a US1200 mid distance powerlooper, they have to demonstrate that they have the shortgame, shotmaking and control to setup up that type of game.

As a result, several players now have the attitude of "I could beat that guy, but he's too much of a coward to battle it out like a man"...
I know you are trying really hard to show your point but all of the bolding in your posts is getting superfluous.
 
PB looked bad playing Schlager because PB psyched himself out and he said so in his posts. 'Schlager won't make a mistake so I had to attack'. His game isn't to attack, it is to pushblock. He should have been aware enough to know that no matter what he did he would have lost so he should have just played the game he knew and was comfortable with and would have at least gotten to enjoy some great rallying. The mental game is by far the most important place to have control.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rich215 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/13/2010 at 12:29pm
Originally posted by icontek icontek wrote:

Originally posted by Speedplay Speedplay wrote:

PB hardly looks like a 2200 rated player in that one and if we didn't know about Schlagers ability, we would probably judge PB as a noob. Knowing about Schlagers level makes us aware that he could make us all look like noobs.


This is just it. Schlager controlled the points.

And while professionals like Schlager, aspiring olympians, US2000+ (2200?) offensive attackers and the lucky folks who have been formally trained as juniors might actually benefit from OFF+ blades and rubbers; those same tools in the hands of people who play at US800-1500 tend to reinforce inconsistency and unforced errors.

Control (over your equipment) translates well into Control (over your strokes) which translates well into Control (over your shots).

Ultimately these things allow you to Control (the point).


Which leads me to a question:

At this beginning/intermediate level - who else uses the blade inspection portion of the match to guide what tactics to try in game 1 and two?

At this level if I see OFF+ equipment, I play a lot of short and dead, knowing that they likely won't have a consistent flip. And more than speed - I also focus on producing heavy spin on loops and pushes, knowing that low dwell and fast rubbers means that their strokes have to be that much more grooved and precise to counter the spin. And, because those blades require very well developed touch to consistently push safe, I can frequently bait those players into popping up for easy pick hits.

And while I could simply serve long and then battle it out with forehand drives at a mid distance, (and possibly lose the point) - if my opponent wants to play at being a US1200 mid distance powerlooper, they have to demonstrate that they have the shortgame, shotmaking and control to setup up that type of game.

As a result, several players now have the attitude of "I could beat that guy, but he's too much of a coward to battle it out like a man"...



Good points for sure!      No superfluous usage from icontek in my mind.

I just set up a Yasaka Sweden Classic with some 2.0 Palio ME 42.5.   I have been using the PME on several blades much faster, but have been using it mostly now on my Yasaka regular Extra.  I'm very comfortable with an allround game in this setup.  But now for a little experiment using the slower Sweden Classic blade, I can see that I can use a much much slower blade with a faster rubber like that PME. 

The only thing that I really have a hard time with is play off the table.  My arms get pretty tired and the touch is much more difficult with such a slow blade when I'm back of the table 4+ feet.  But is it really fun to have such a larger degree of forgiveness in so many shots with the slower blade.  It's kind of addicting actually. 

I can understand more clearly now the proper execution of various strokes with this slower setup.  It forces me to make much more pronounced movements of feet, body, and arms.  I do not rely so much on my wrist as much as I would with a faster blade.  Although, my 87g. Extra blocks and loops much better, (probably because of max sponge on the PME instead of 2.0mm) I am having a hard time deciding which blade I want to use.  I guess it will depend on who I play or how much energy I have at the time.

So, long story short.......The Yasaka Sweden Classic with some Palio Macro Era 42.5 2.0mm is a great setup!  


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Anton Chigurh Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/13/2010 at 3:14pm
I've been paying attention to this thread and, in my opinion, it is a very useful discussion. Many good points have been made.

However, I feel it's being tipped in one particular direction, so I wanted to chime in:

I understand the principle behind using gear that is appropriate to one's level. However, that principle is a bit vague and open to interpretation--and rightfully so, IMO.

No offense intended to any one person, as I'm addressing an idea and not an individual, but to me the notion that all people below some arbitrary level "should" only use "slow" gear borders on a dogmatic statement and I see little evidence to support it. Certainly some people at a particular level would benefit from slower gear, but different people have different weaknesses, strengths, backgrounds, and inherent aptitudes. To say that all people below a particular level should always use a certain type of setup is an overreaching statement.

For example, when I met my coach I was using an OFF- blade. He immediately suggested an OFF blade with some pretty fast rubbers (Petr Korbel with Narucross EX Hard on the FH and Soft on the BH). With that setup, within less than a year I went from ~700 to ~1300. (Admittedly, that is an estimated rating based on the ratings of the people I beat consistently. It is also based on the feedback I received from my coach an many other higher-rated players.)

Nonetheless, I made noticeable and consistent progress with what would be considered by most as a fairly fast setup.

Some people have coaches. Some people don't. Some people have good coaches. Some people don't. Some people are highly athletic with a background in related sports. Some people aren't athletic and have no comparable experience. Some people are above average in intelligence, some people are not. And on, and on.

Given all these contingencies, I find no good reason to generalize that all people of a particular rating or skill level should use a setup of one particular speed.

I can understand the inclination to push "slower" setups, as ego often does play a factor and more than one person has been guilty of buying gear that is too fast for... well, anyone. Perhaps this drive to over-generalize the "slow gear" idea is simply erring on the side of caution. I can respect that. But, I think such an intent, once repeated enough, can quickly become dogmatic. And I find dogma to be one of the largest obstacles to progress, both physically and cognitively.

Ultimately, I feel "using gear that is appropriate to one's level" is a great idea. BUT, it is not synonymous with "all people below 1800 should use slow gear".

 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jonan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/13/2010 at 3:28pm
Originally posted by Anton Chigurh Anton Chigurh wrote:

using gear that is appropriate to one's level.

to me the notion that all people below some arbitrary level "should" only use "slow" gear borders on a dogmatic statement and I see little evidence to support it.

To say that all people below a particular level should always use a certain type of setup is an overreaching statement.

Some people have good coaches. Some people don't. Some people are highly athletic with a background in related sports. Some people aren't athletic and have no comparable experience. Some people are above average intelligence, some people are not.


I agree

I agree

I agree

True

Some people have to be coached and have a really hard time improving unless they get outside advice because they simply cannot put their finger on what's going wrong, that would be like one of my friends, perfect example of that, would get into funks for weeks and not be able to land a shot.
Another friend, he's had a coach for years but never improves because, quite frankly, his coach sucks, he told him to get a Timo Boll Tricarbon and Bryce Speed on both sides for a 1300 rated player, he never developed him opening game and I ended up coaching him in the summers when we worked together and at least when I was around, to switch to slightly slower setups.
Some people get better just by practicing with other people and work it out like another friend of mine, develops a very strong, though simple, core game.
Me...never got coached in anything in my life, very self motivated and am used to self examination. I decided to like baseball in highschool but I was homeschooled so I made a pitching mound and threw at a backstop every day for a couple years and read books, watched videos, and never played on a team or had a coach, yet got offered several scholarships to pitch for college teams when I went to a couple tryouts. Mainly because I was a lefty who could throw in the upper 80's all day long and had developed like 20 other junk pitches.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mhnh007 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/13/2010 at 3:53pm
From what I gather from some of the good comments in this post is that below a certain level (say 1800 rating), faster setup will not improve your game, also it has a good chance of hurting your development, so why risk it.

I agree with Anton that you do not always need to start with a slow setup, and you should play with the setup that you are comfortable with.  For me, after playing with more than a dozen blades rated from All to Off+, and countless number of rubbers, I find that my comfort level is Off, and soft-med. sponge.  I find the right setup for me after spending a lot of money, time, and frustration. So starting slow is still a good and safe advice I think.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote icontek Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/13/2010 at 11:32pm
i apologize for sounding like a dogmatic broken record :D

i would be silly if i thought that intelligence, natural ability, previous exposure to raquet sports had no bearing on the equation.

i simply meant that for a majority of players of below a certain level, the downside of OFF+ blades is greater than the upside.

This is because the amount of work it takes to develop the fundamentals of the game using really fast gear is likely exponentially greater than the effort involved using tried and true combinations like a Primorac with Sriver EL.

I was hoping to have ohgourami chime in with the improvements to his game after going from an OFF+ to a more OFF- setup :D
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BMonkey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/14/2010 at 12:07am
Originally posted by icontek icontek wrote:

i apologize for sounding like a dogmatic broken record :D

i would be silly if i thought that intelligence, natural ability, previous exposure to raquet sports had no bearing on the equation.

i simply meant that for a majority of players of below a certain level, the downside of OFF+ blades is greater than the upside.

This is because the amount of work it takes to develop the fundamentals of the game using really fast gear is likely exponentially greater than the effort involved using tried and true combinations like a Primorac with Sriver EL.

I was hoping to have ohgourami chime in with the improvements to his game after going from an OFF+ to a more OFF- setup :D
I think for alot of people (including myself) it is important that they are allowed to realize the value of control on their own. If they don't understand why they are switching to a slower setup, other than because the internet said so, then they will not gain a better understanding of table tennis conceptually.

For a long time I played a Nittaku Acoustic with Tenergy 05 FH and various BH rubbers like Tenergy 05, Hammond Pro Beta, Express 1. One day I was reading mytt.net and I had an epiphany when I read a line someone wrote. "I realized I was scared of my racket". That struck a chord with me because I saw the trepidation my setup gave me in certain situations. For example, when an opponent hits a dead ball just off the end of the table and it is going nice and slow and low, it gave me such a fit to loop those with power (especially down the line). So I started EJ-ing a bit for a new blade and rubber and settled on a Clipper Classic with Mark V 2.0mm on the FH and Bryce FX 2.1mm on the BH. My game has been on a steady improvement ever since.

So yes, slowing down can speed you up, but I think you need to have that epiphany moment so you come to a better understanding of this game. Smile
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote popperlocker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/14/2010 at 10:14am
AHAHAHAHAHA "who else uses the blade inspection portion of the match to guide what tactics to try in game"
icontek, you are too damn smart
and anton, I am pro freedom of choice when it comes to equipment. I hate it when people at the club talk down to a player for using lp, sp, or anti. but for people that want to gain points quick, using a fast setup doesn't make sense. i've also seen coaches make rocket blades for absolute beginners, it's painful to watch all the misses, and bad form develop. but some coaches are in it to make money, not players, and lessons pay the bills. and like elf says, you can't convince a new player/me to use slow setup
my journey, was similar to elf.
started with fast setup, arrogantly stayed 1000 for about a year. then i accidently picked up this cheap and slow 729 stuff, suddenly instead of playing scared and lobbing, I somehow was attacking and looping, got to 1700 in about a few weeks, stayed at 1700 for about 2 months. then changed to fast setup, which destroyed whatever technique i had. stayed 1800 for about 5 months. realized i wasn't improving so i got lessons. the more lessons i took, the more i thought my equipment was way too fast(i was discovering how to create power). then downgraded my equipment, got to 2000 in about 3 months.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote icontek Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/14/2010 at 2:24pm
Originally posted by popperlocker popperlocker wrote:

AHAHAHAHAHA "who else uses the blade inspection portion of the match to guide what tactics to try in game"
icontek, you are too damn smart
 
at first - i couldn't tell if you were being sarcastic :)
 
i use the blade inspection because i am an EJ - and I have a good idea about the properties of quite a bit of equipment. also, because i lack the touch and understanding to "figure out those properties" during a pre-match warmup! 
 
Quote i've also seen coaches make rocket blades for absolute beginners, it's painful to watch all the misses, and bad form develop. but some coaches are in it to make money, not players, and lessons pay the bills.
 
the one USATT coach I have worked with did exactly this. he put US800 players in fast OFF+ carbon blades, and US700 players in solid OFF blades with Palio Macro Era... Of course, he was selling the equipment, so there's no conflict of interest there, or anything :)
 
anton, the problem i have with your argument is that it relies on a bit of recursion. an individual of say US1000-1500 can't know what they don't know in terms of spin, stroke production, etc. that feedback loop (of not being able to be objective about gear) and even how equipment speed hurts or helps development in anything more than a cursory manner.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Anton Chigurh Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/15/2010 at 2:59pm
icontek: I'm not sure what you mean by recursive. (I understand the definition of recursive; I mean I'm unsure how what I'm saying fits that definition.)

BMonkey: I appreciate your epiphany and respect your input. However, I'm slightly confused by something you said. You feel you "slowed down" by going from an Acoustic to a Clipper? That seems baffling to me, as I found the Clipper much faster than the Acoustic and quite a bit more difficult to control in the short game. Just my experience, not the objective "truth", but nonetheless I thought it was a salient discrepancy. The Clipper is thicker, stiffer, and heavier--all traits that seem to imply increased speed.

For the record, I'm not opposed to the idea that "slower gear" is better for learning. To an extent, that seems reasonable. However, the key to me is "to an extent". In addition, what "slower gear" means precisely.

Regarding coaches that allegedly push fast setups so they can make a buck by keeping their students in a state of perpetual stagnation and frustration... I'm not buying that argument. That isn't to say that nobody has ever done it, but it's just not a compelling argument.

First, it requires a pretty Machiavellian person to think of it, want to do it, and actually pull it off. Such people exist, but fortunately they are certainly not the majority. In addition, I doubt that by some chance table tennis coaches happen to make up a large proportion of such scandalous people. Second, my coach, for example, started me on a fairly fast setup (as stated above). However, he wasn't charging me any money. He was a 2000-2100 player, a fellow student and member of the university table tennis club, and he gave me free lessons just because he's a nice guy. I fail to see how sabotaging me with fast equipment would benefit him in any way. It seems that such a premise is simply an (unconscious?) attempt to substantiate an argument one really wants to believe.

I appreciate the logic behind the argument, but logic doesn't always match empirical results. (That's why there's such a large chasm between philosophy and science these days.) The empirical results you provided are slightly compelling, but it's a very small sample size, and the examples are being presented by the very people who have a vested interest in the argument. So again, it does not seem to be an airtight case.

I still believe that if there is to be a "dogma", then the dogma should be that players should use equipment that is appropriate to their abilities. Granted, it's a bit more vague than "people under 1800 should use slow gear", but I think the vagueness is a good thing. It leaves room for contingencies.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BMonkey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/15/2010 at 11:35pm
Originally posted by Anton Chigurh Anton Chigurh wrote:

BMonkey: I appreciate your epiphany and respect your input. However, I'm slightly confused by something you said. You feel you "slowed down" by going from an Acoustic to a Clipper? That seems baffling to me, as I found the Clipper much faster than the Acoustic and quite a bit more difficult to control in the short game. Just my experience, not the objective "truth", but nonetheless I thought it was a salient discrepancy. The Clipper is thicker, stiffer, and heavier--all traits that seem to imply increased speed.

The combination of Clipper with Mark V is much slower and less catapulty than Acoustic (not Acoustic-L) with Tenergy05. My Acoustic was 93g and had one thin layer of Minwax spray clear polyurethane applied to it. I think it was the poly sealing but it was noticeably harder and faster than the other 2 Acoustics I've tried. In conjunction with Tenergy05 it was a cannon. When I decided to EJ I wanted a blade with a better handle because in my opinion the Darker Speed 90 has the best flared handle I've ever felt and it is noticeably bigger and more squarish than the Acoustic's. Also I felt the thinness of the Acoustic made it feel overly vibration prone and like power was being lost when smashing the ball flat (which I tend to do alot when the ball pops up). The combination of the Clipper with Mark V 2.0mm is capable of some very high speed shots but only if you want it to be, because Mark V doesn't have nearly the same catapult effect as Tenergy05. As far as short game goes I have improved because of that lack of catapult not shooting the ball up or out long when I dont want it to and also the Clipper is more neutrally balanced, where the Acoustic with Tenergy is head heavy which makes snapping the wrist more difficult. Overall the Clipper with Mark V 2.0 mm and Bryce FX 2.1mm is a bit heavy, but the neutral balance hides the weight well and I feel like I have chosen overall much more linear playing setup than what I was using previously. It's only lacking that last gear in spin that Tenergy has, but it can get pretty dang close, often to the surprise of my opponents Smile
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote icontek Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/16/2010 at 12:13am
Sorry to be sort of oblique.

I was using recursion in an attempt to reference an in-built bias and will do my best to explain.

Tabletennis is a sport with more spin variation than any other raquet sport (1 - 9000rpm by some reports). As such it has tremendously high granularity. Control of that spin, and mastering the skills to work both with and against it is the greatest challenge of the inverted era. Regardless of natural athleticism, perception, or even a history of racquet sports, new and old players alike face the same fundamental challenges of being able to read, understand and produce these spins.

Look at the process whereby a low-intermediate level player with limited perception of the game attempts to make equipment choices based on their perceived understanding.

At it simplest form - this behavior occurs when someone makes a statement like "i am an aggressive attacker" and chooses an OFF+ blade to "complement" that style.

However, in a more complex form, it can occur when a coach recommends equipment to a developing player that the coach (who usually has very grooved strokes) believes is high control.

And in many cases when players choose a blade that is faster than their level - they are almost forced to buy "high performance rubbers" - because these are capable of producing enough topspin to bring down a ball before the endline.






p.s.
I'll be the first to admit (as an EJ) that I have occasionally slapped on a sheet of BW2 so I can spend a night at the club "hitting through" several opponents who usually return my 1st attacks with my more modest ALL+ setup. I'm sure that dopamine is involved, because I the recollection of those points is simultaneously warm, fuzzy and vivid.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tpgh2k Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/16/2010 at 12:30am
i love those warm and fuzzy feelings....i get it all the time now =).
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote icontek Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/16/2010 at 10:12am
Originally posted by tpgh2k tpgh2k wrote:

i love those warm and fuzzy feelings....i get it all the time now =).


Did the frequency of those shots landing increase when you went from the Mizutani to the YEO?

Don't get me wrong, you've put in tremendous work drilling in the last year; and it shows! But how much of the "power WITH control" can you attribute to the blade?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Mdman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/16/2010 at 11:04am
So what is a good carbon blade to start with?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ztec Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/16/2010 at 11:24am
Originally posted by Mdman Mdman wrote:

So what is a good carbon blade to start with?


Seems like the best answer so far would be: none, start with all wood.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tpgh2k Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/16/2010 at 11:26am
that's actually a really good question there. it's kind of hard to answer b/c the bw2 has changed also though from the regular tuned to the permanent tension ones which i think are a bit softer...

the initial time i switched from the mj to the yeo was in november i believe...my shots did go in more often but not b/c i could control the ball better, but more because i the blade itself helped arc the ball better with the same stroke i used. in a sense you could say that it was more grooved towards my swing...or you could say that i was better able to control the ball through the arc of my loops.

@mdman, why do you want a carbon blade? shots don't feel fast enough? love the crips feel and huge sweetspot?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote longreachlooper Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/16/2010 at 11:51am
I went thru this whole faster deal or slower deal racket.

I got all amped up after not playing for years,

and bought a fast blade with fast rubber,

and i added speed glue to it all!!!!!!!!!

Never used speed glue b4.

What a rush, speed glue on my frhnd was great for loops and looping chops.

But i had no control or touch at all!!! NONE!

It was so pathetic and frustrating becuz i was so poor at the time, and didnt have the $$$ to try anything different!

I used basic animal instinks and got thru matches.

It was torture.

NOW, I have a slow-slower blade, and now that my brain has cooled, i remember now, yeearrs ago, when i felt absolutely fantastic at the table with CONTROL + PLACEMENT (speed of placement), i had a slower raquet.

Beautiful subject-question!

Gotta hit some soon!

 
 
 
 
 
 
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-Spinny verywell controlled stuff forehand

-long pips or inverted or med. pips on backhand



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote icontek Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/16/2010 at 3:02pm
Originally posted by tpgh2k tpgh2k wrote:

my shots did go in more often but not b/c i could control the ball better
 
If the meaning of control is to be able to place the ball where you want to...
 
...and on the table is someplace you would rather place the ball...
 
then going to a slower setup added control (because you were always trying to hit the table in the first place).
 
tpgh2k - this is a really good example of perspective expressed by semantics.
 
many players don't think of "controlling the arc of their topspin" as an aspect of control. I would argue that fast blades generally produce longer, flatter arcs (which is why those same blades are great for attacking from 10 feet behind the table) and why many players turn to high spin rubbers to shorten the arc. of course when those high spin rubbers are also highly elastic and also fast... well, the unintended happens, and players find it easier to hit the floor instead of the table.
 
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Rich215 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/16/2010 at 3:19pm
Originally posted by icontek icontek wrote:

 
 
many players don't think of "controlling the arc of their topspin" as an aspect of control. I would argue that fast blades generally produce longer, flatter arcs (which is why those same blades are great for attacking from 10 feet behind the table) and why many players turn to high spin rubbers to shorten the arc. of course when those high spin rubbers are also highly elastic and also fast... well, the unintended happens, and players find it easier to hit the floor instead of the table.
 
 



+1 !  Exactly what I have found with all the various combo's I have tried.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tpgh2k Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/16/2010 at 9:11pm
i guess it is a more subjective perspective from my part really...b/c i was trained back in vietnam while using the yeo so my swing was grooved towards it in the first place...i was stupid and went back to the mj...

in the end, i got more control out of it no matter how you look at it....although i do think i might want my old TBS back tho....
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote dauntless Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/16/2010 at 9:46pm
I don't think using a slower setup automatically gets you 500 points.
I think getting some real coaching, training proper strokes, having sound tactics, AND having appropriate level gear is going to help raise your game and probably your rating.

But to say a 1200 rated player will go to 1700 because of a equipment switch-- I just don't think that flies straight. Just my opinion though. If you are having problems hitting 10 consecutive loops against underspin, you may want to change your gear. (notice I didn't say get slower gearTongue -- just look a my new sig)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jt99sf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/16/2010 at 11:10pm
Originally posted by dauntless dauntless wrote:

I don't think using a slower setup automatically gets you 500 points.
I think getting some real coaching, training proper strokes, having sound tactics, AND having appropriate level gear is going to help raise your game and probably your rating.

But to say a 1200 rated player will go to 1700 because of a equipment switch-- I just don't think that flies straight. Just my opinion though. If you are having problems hitting 10 consecutive loops against underspin, you may want to change your gear. (notice I didn't say get slower gearTongue -- just look a my new sig)
 
Totally agreed. I saw some sub 1000 rated juniors with a Photino blade and T05 on both sides at a recent tourney. Confused
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