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    Posted: 09/19/2010 at 8:17pm

I've heard many complaints about water-based glues.  What's wrong with good old-fashioned rubber cement glues for gluing rubber sheets? 

If you air out the racket several days before a tournament, it should be okay for inspection, right?  And then the rubber sheets will be easy to peel off and change when needed.  Don't many equipment dealers use rubber cement glues for the custom rackets they put together?
 
Please tell me if I am missing something here.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mmerkel Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09/19/2010 at 9:40pm
Nothing really wrong with rubber cement as a glue. I have read in a few threads here that certain rubbers might not react well if they are glued with a VOC glue. I used to use slightly thinned rubber cement, but now I use mostly Haifu WSB.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FireHorse Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09/21/2010 at 1:24am
Yeah, I'm very frustrated with water-based glue.  Some of the rubber doesn't stick to the blade very tight at all, especially when I glue the rubber on a humid day.  And on top of that, after taking the rubber off the blade, in order to make sure that it will be used again, I will have to do something to peal off the glue on the sponge which is a long, tedious work.  Most of my rubbers now cannot stick tightly to any of my blade and I'm having a hard time playing because the rubbers cannot perform well if it's not tightly sticked to the blade.  I think I will use the rubber cement glue and let it air out because I don't plan to play in any tournament but in my club and mostly I'm practicing and looking for the right rubber.   I hope that the table tennis manufacturers will come up to a better type of glue to help resolve this problem

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BeaverMD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09/21/2010 at 11:14am
Originally posted by capablanca8 capablanca8 wrote:

I've heard many complaints about water-based glues.  What's wrong with good old-fashioned rubber cement glues for gluing rubber sheets? 

If you air out the racket several days before a tournament, it should be okay for inspection, right?  And then the rubber sheets will be easy to peel off and change when needed.  Don't many equipment dealers use rubber cement glues for the custom rackets they put together?
 
Please tell me if I am missing something here.
 
You are absolutely correct.  You can continue using regular rubber cement ex. Elmer's or Bestine as long as you air it out a few days before a tournament.  And yes, RC is used to put together the topsheet and sponge.  I have seen one new rubber, can't remember which, that claims to be assembled with water-based glue.  So who knows if that will be the norm in the future.  However, if you really want to transition to water-based glue, I highly recommend Tear Mender.  It gave me a nice transition from RC.  One negative thing I see with RC is it might not be good for some of the speed glue effect rubbers. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jt99sf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09/21/2010 at 11:26am
I've never used WBG. I only buy Bestine rubber cement and the thinner. I reglue my rubbers once every three weeks and have no issues. My results are always consistant.
 
I do wait about a week after regluing before playing tournies just to be on the safe side.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BeaverMD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09/21/2010 at 11:56am

JT,

I'm glad you chimed in.  Much like you, I've always used rubber cement.  But I bought some new Stiga Boost TC and I wanted to try it with WBG.  So I used Tear Mender and so far, it's working well.  I just sealed the blade well with a thin coat of Minwax clear polyurethane.  No problems so far.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jt99sf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09/21/2010 at 12:07pm
I've heard some horror stories about WBG such as long drying time, rubbers not adhering well, and expensive compared to RC. I don't see a good reason for me to change from RC to WBG.
 
I don't "re-glue" anyway so I happy to stay with RC since the objective is to glue the rubber on the blade. Sometimes people make things so complicated.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BeaverMD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09/21/2010 at 12:36pm
Smile LOL
 
My thoughts are exactly the same as yours.  But from one long time RC user to another, if you ever think about trying WBG, Tear Mender is the way to go. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jt99sf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09/21/2010 at 12:41pm
B-MD,
 
since you're familiar with both processes. from beginning to end, which is your preferred method?
 
RC vs Tear mender. Drying time, ease of use and cost? any other factors?
 
can you use Tear mender the same day in the tournament?
 
tia.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mhnh007 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09/21/2010 at 1:45pm
I only switch to WBG (KLT) from using Elmer RC, and find that the WBG adhere a lot better than the RC.  I usually do not use edge tape, and I find that with RC, the edge (of the rubber) some time detached, if I hit the table with it on push, while the WBG does not give me this problem.  I think the trick is to wait until the glue dried and looked clear before attach.  On the Neo H3 pre-glue, with WBG, I only need to put glue on the blade, with RC I need to put it on the rubber as well, or they don't stick.  The only thing with WBG is, I think, you need to seal your blade, or risk damage it when trying to take the rubber off the blade.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jt99sf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09/21/2010 at 1:51pm
after the initial gluing of a new rubber (2 layers), I never had to re-apply RC to the rubber. When I re-glue (once every 3 weeks) it only applies to the blade.
 
I've also never had any issues with RC with the rubber not sticking near the edges of the blade. I do ocasionally use edge tape (only if and when I remember). For me the key is to let it dry.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FireHorse Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09/21/2010 at 2:44pm
Originally posted by jt99sf jt99sf wrote:

after the initial gluing of a new rubber (2 layers), I never had to re-apply RC to the rubber. When I re-glue (once every 3 weeks) it only applies to the blade.
 
I've also never had any issues with RC with the rubber not sticking near the edges of the blade. I do ocasionally use edge tape (only if and when I remember). For me the key is to let it dry.


Why do you have to reglue?  Because the rubber is getting loose?  Or you just want to reglue?  If RC cannot keep the rubber to the blade forever (like the old non-water based glue) then I will have to think of buying the non-water based glue like paddlepalace.com has (the Tibhar Individual glue) so I can have the rubber sticks to the blade as long as I want to.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jt99sf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09/21/2010 at 2:50pm
I re-glue when the rubber start to feel 'dead'. I feel that by re-gluing, the rubber get more "lively" and the rebound effect (blocking & looping) is better.
 
Perhaps that's in my mind, but it works for me.Big smile
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BeaverMD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09/21/2010 at 3:02pm
Originally posted by jt99sf jt99sf wrote:

B-MD,
 
since you're familiar with both processes. from beginning to end, which is your preferred method?
 
RC vs Tear mender. Drying time, ease of use and cost? any other factors?
 
can you use Tear mender the same day in the tournament?
 
tia.
 
The process for applying TM is detailed right here courtesy of wturber.
The only thing different that I do is I use my finger to apply rather than a sponge.
 
As far as preference goes, it's really a toss up.  The main reasons I would use Tear Mender is you can use it the same day as the tournament.  It completely dries in 3 minutes and the latex actually solidifies while you rub it on the sponge and blade if you take too much time.  You attach on the blade while it's still slightly wet.  Still, I would assemble the night before to ensure that the glue underneath dries completely.  There's a hint of ammonia but other than that, others can comment on how it performs on the enez.
 
Second, I do believe you get a truer impression of speed glue effect rubbers ex. Tenergy, Boost, Pryde, Tensors etc.  when using WBG.  It's also easy to peel off from the sponge as you can see on the video.  You can take out little bits of sponge (also on the video) if you're not careful especially on softer sponges.  But it's really cool because you work with a clean sponge all the time.  By the way, once you have a layer of TM on the sponge, you can maybe put another layer but it's much easier just to peel off the older layer.
 
Cost is 2oz. (60mL) TM is $6+ and 6oz for $8+ so it's a bit more than RC.  Still, it's not ridiculous like TT brand WBG.
 
My advice is get a 2oz. bottle, try it out on an old rubber and sealed blade and see how it goes.  It's completely a personal choice but my thinking is if I can go completely legal without any hassle, why not?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jt99sf Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09/21/2010 at 3:09pm
thanks for the reply.
 
the next question is do you get or can you expect consistant results each time you glue?
 
before a tourney, I re-glue a week ahead and have that week to re-adjust to the rubber/blade.
 
if you use the WBG on the same day as the tournament, will the rubber/blade play the same as the last time?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote foz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09/21/2010 at 3:16pm
Joola lex latex glue does it all, sticks better than anything else ive tried and peels off your fingers and the blade nice and easy. put a thin layer on and its dry in a minuite or 2! Thumbs Up

Edited by foz - 10/07/2010 at 6:21pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FireHorse Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09/21/2010 at 3:40pm
Originally posted by jt99sf jt99sf wrote:

thanks for the reply.
 
if you use the WBG on the same day as the tournament, will the rubber/blade play the same as the last time?


I know that you're not asking me this question but from my experience with Fair Chack, I'd say that it depends on the air in the room where you glue the rubber to the blade.  And also some rubbers do not react well with Fair Chack. 

I did not have the rubber sticks well to my blade at one tournament when I had assembled the rubber to the blade a day before that and did not have time to do any testing.  And I also say that if you glue the rubber to the blade when there is humidity in the air, it won't stick to the blade that well at all.  Maybe I was too rush to stick it in before letting it really dried out but I have to say that the WBG is really sensitive with air humidity.  I could be so wrong about it but it's my experience.

And with WBG or not, I think that it's a good idea (like you said) to try the combination a week before the tournament.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BeaverMD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09/21/2010 at 4:28pm
Originally posted by jt99sf jt99sf wrote:

thanks for the reply.
 
the next question is do you get or can you expect consistant results each time you glue?
 
before a tourney, I re-glue a week ahead and have that week to re-adjust to the rubber/blade.
 
if you use the WBG on the same day as the tournament, will the rubber/blade play the same as the last time?
 
I can't really answer your questions extensively as I've only recently started using TM.  But one time, I was at the club and peeled off a rubber glued with TM and glued it to another blade also using TM.  The rubber didn't feel strange or anything.  I've heard other players say that if the glue is not completely dry, it will feel mushy.  So I think if it's done properly, TM should produce consistent results.  Just to be sure, I would glue it no later than the night before. 


Edited by BeaverMD - 09/24/2010 at 10:04am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote RJTT Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09/21/2010 at 5:37pm
Myself and a few guys I play with uses Elmers RC and it works well. Not sure if it will pass the "sniff test" even after letting it air out but works well comes with a built in brush, comes offeasy when re-gluing and is cheap.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote capablanca8 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09/22/2010 at 1:03am
What kind of glue is Tibhar Individual Glue?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FireHorse Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09/22/2010 at 9:25am
Originally posted by capablanca8 capablanca8 wrote:

What kind of glue is Tibhar Individual Glue?


I believe that it's neither water-based glue nor speed glue but the regular glue being used before the speed-glue ban.  It does contain VOC illegal under the new rule so I believe that it's the same as rubber cement glue.  Here's what someone says about the glue (from www.paddlepalace.com):

Paddle Palace has re-named the category for Tibhar Individual Glue from "Regular Glue" to "Regular Glue: Not Water-Based." Tibhar Individual Glue is not a "speed glue" and it is not a "water-based" glue, and we have separate sections for these types of glues. Speed glue is no longer being manufactured by the table tennis companies, so when it sells out we will no longer have glues in the speed glue category. All "regular" rubber cement glues contain a small amount of ingredients that will not pass the BOX tests by USATT if freshly glued. If you use a non water-based "regular" glue you should attach your rubber at least a few days before your paddle is tested. The manufacturers all use "regular" glue when they manufacture the rubbers, for attaching the topsheet to the sponge. The manufactures also use "regular" glue when they glue the rubber to the blade. Until there is a water-based glue that meets their performance needs for rubber manufacturing, this will continue to be true. So when you have a new rubber sheet, you should take it out of the package to air out for at least a day or more before using it in a tournament to ensure that it will pass the testing. ITTF also ruled in 2008 that no substance can be used that alters the rubber after it is manufactured. Sponge expanders and boosters, even if they do not include VOCs, are not legal because they alter the rubber. Speed glues are not legal for reasons two-fold: not only do they contain VOCs but they also change the characteristics of the rubber.

By the way, I just went out and bought myself Elmer's rubber cement glue and it works as regular glue so I think I will use it from now on.  I won't be playing in any big tournament where they do the VOC test and also, if I will, I will glue my rubber 2 or 3 weeks before that.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Phot0n Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09/22/2010 at 4:18pm
The problem I have with any of these table tennis glues is price. I currently use the Tibhar regular glue (from Paddle Palace) which is ~$18 for 250ml. Granted, this will last a while. However, go to Walmart and you can pickup Elmer's Rubber Cement at for under $2 for 118ml. And Elmer's RC is basically rubber cement thinned down with some heptane.

I compared the consistency and dry-time with my Tibhar and they are pretty much the same. The Tibhar does have an extra "latexiness". I glued my most recent pair of rubbers with the Elmer's and I pretty much haven't seen any difference. Glue, stick, touch up the parts that didn't stick, place under a bunch of books for an hour.

I have another batch of Elmer's which I added d-limonene and I'm not as satisfied with the speed-effect. I think I'll try regular rubber cement with the d-lim to see if that helps.

So, I'm no where near good enough to play where the would test my rubber for VOC's, nor would I replace my rubbers so much that they would less than a few days old before testing. I think this "regular" glue stuff is perfectly fine for 99% of people.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FireHorse Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09/22/2010 at 4:31pm
Originally posted by Phot0n Phot0n wrote:

The problem I have with any of these table tennis glues is price. I currently use the Tibhar regular glue (from Paddle Palace) which is ~$18 for 250ml. Granted, this will last a while. However, go to Walmart and you can pickup Elmer's Rubber Cement at for under $2 for 118ml. And Elmer's RC is basically rubber cement thinned down with some heptane.

I compared the consistency and dry-time with my Tibhar and they are pretty much the same. The Tibhar does have an extra "latexiness". I glued my most recent pair of rubbers with the Elmer's and I pretty much haven't seen any difference. Glue, stick, touch up the parts that didn't stick, place under a bunch of books for an hour.

I have another batch of Elmer's which I added d-limonene and I'm not as satisfied with the speed-effect. I think I'll try regular rubber cement with the d-lim to see if that helps.

So, I'm no where near good enough to play where the would test my rubber for VOC's, nor would I replace my rubbers so much that they would less than a few days old before testing. I think this "regular" glue stuff is perfectly fine for 99% of people.

--Phot0n


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote capablanca8 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09/22/2010 at 9:38pm
So maybe Elmer's is the way to go! Thumbs Up
 
Anyone know what kind of glue this is? 

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Edited by capablanca8 - 09/22/2010 at 9:40pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote foz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09/23/2010 at 1:54pm
I cant quite way up whats going on here, all this talk about ''effect'' and speed, here in England as far as im aware, anything that changes the playing charicteristics of the rubber is banned, weather your playing national tornies or base standard local league! The 2 leagues i play in do not test for voc glues or boosters but there is a strict confidence amongst all players not to use anything that changes the rubber from the manufacturers set standard in any way. I know i must sound like a jobsworth, but surely its the only way to keep us all on a level playing field? Maybe things are just more relaxed elsewhere!Confused

Edited by foz - 09/23/2010 at 2:51pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FireHorse Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09/23/2010 at 4:49pm
Originally posted by foz foz wrote:

I cant quite way up whats going on here, all this talk about ''effect'' and speed, here in England as far as im aware, anything that changes the playing charicteristics of the rubber is banned, weather your playing national tornies or base standard local league! The 2 leagues i play in do not test for voc glues or boosters but there is a strict confidence amongst all players not to use anything that changes the rubber from the manufacturers set standard in any way. I know i must sound like a jobsworth, but surely its the only way to keep us all on a level playing field? Maybe things are just more relaxed elsewhere!Confused


I don't think that it's more relaxed elsewhere, I just believe that regular VOC glue (not speed-glue) does not change the playing characteristics of the rubber like speed-glue.

I am always about fair game but if I use water-based glue and it doesn't help much to keep the rubber to my blade tightly (like rubber cement glue or the old VOC glue) then it doesn't help me to play at all and I find that the rubber cement glue (which contains VOC) helps me with that issue so I'll use it.  Besides, I will assemble my rubber to my blade at least 1 week before any tournament so I don't think that it matters at all because even with speed-glue, the effect of it only lasts at most a day.  I never boosted so I don't know about that.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Baal Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09/23/2010 at 4:52pm
tear mender.

Cheap, legal.  VOC free.  Pretty much the same thing as table tennis glue.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote aeoliah Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09/24/2010 at 1:58am
Originally posted by Phot0n Phot0n wrote:

The problem I have with any of these table tennis glues is price. I currently use the Tibhar regular glue (from Paddle Palace) which is ~$18 for 250ml. Granted, this will last a while. However, go to Walmart and you can pickup Elmer's Rubber Cement at for under $2 for 118ml. And Elmer's RC is basically rubber cement thinned down with some heptane.

I compared the consistency and dry-time with my Tibhar and they are pretty much the same. The Tibhar does have an extra "latexiness". I glued my most recent pair of rubbers with the Elmer's and I pretty much haven't seen any difference. Glue, stick, touch up the parts that didn't stick, place under a bunch of books for an hour.

I have another batch of Elmer's which I added d-limonene and I'm not as satisfied with the speed-effect. I think I'll try regular rubber cement with the d-lim to see if that helps.

So, I'm no where near good enough to play where the would test my rubber for VOC's, nor would I replace my rubbers so much that they would less than a few days old before testing. I think this "regular" glue stuff is perfectly fine for 99% of people.

--Phot0n


So Elmer's RC as it is (without adding anything) is good enough  ?
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nicefrog View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote nicefrog Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09/24/2010 at 3:10am
Phot0n, more info about why the Commodore logo :)?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote FireHorse Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09/24/2010 at 3:04pm
Originally posted by aeoliah aeoliah wrote:

Originally posted by Phot0n Phot0n wrote:

The problem I have with any of these table tennis glues is price. I currently use the Tibhar regular glue (from Paddle Palace) which is ~$18 for 250ml. Granted, this will last a while. However, go to Walmart and you can pickup Elmer's Rubber Cement at for under $2 for 118ml. And Elmer's RC is basically rubber cement thinned down with some heptane.

I compared the consistency and dry-time with my Tibhar and they are pretty much the same. The Tibhar does have an extra "latexiness". I glued my most recent pair of rubbers with the Elmer's and I pretty much haven't seen any difference. Glue, stick, touch up the parts that didn't stick, place under a bunch of books for an hour.

I have another batch of Elmer's which I added d-limonene and I'm not as satisfied with the speed-effect. I think I'll try regular rubber cement with the d-lim to see if that helps.

So, I'm no where near good enough to play where the would test my rubber for VOC's, nor would I replace my rubbers so much that they would less than a few days old before testing. I think this "regular" glue stuff is perfectly fine for 99% of people.

--Phot0n


So Elmer's RC as it is (without adding anything) is good enough  ?


I think I can answer this question and the answer is Yes.

I tried it and it works.  But I'm not sure what happens with those new rubbers such as Tenergy, Hexer, etc...  I tried Elmer's RC on Yasaka Pryde and Butterfly Tackifire Drive and have no problem.

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