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Handcrafted Blades by Ross Leidy |
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spinitgood 
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Joined: 01/01/2014 Location: Switzerland Status: Offline Points: 30 |
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 Posted: 05/03/2014 at 2:25pm |
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Had two training sessions with my new Ross Leidy - and I love it.
Here are my thoughts First it is a bit heavier than my last set up: 177g (89g for the blade + rasant powersponge+M3), up from 174g. It is a bit head heavy and the handle is more square than I expected - This I'll have to get used to a bit. That's it for the complaining, the rest is really really great! I wanted to get extra speed and I certainly got that. And it came with more control! I had a JP Gation 3D extra, and I'm not going back to it. The main improvements are my counter loops and my punch blocks. I can really take advantage of the stiff spruce and just kill the ball. The throw angle is lower, which I like a lot. Serves and opening loops are also a breeze. So thanks Ross for the great looking blade! You pretty much nailed the speed and playing characteristics I was looking for! |
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t64t64t64
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Posted: 05/03/2014 at 2:49pm |
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Zeus Topspins :)
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http://mytabletennis.net/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=61764&PID=734709
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Ross Leidy
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Joined: 10/13/2011 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 402 |
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Posted: 05/07/2014 at 10:26pm |
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Recently, I found a supply of some really nice natural koto, and I stocked my shelves immediately since that's a hard wood to find for some reason. I've not done a lot of blades with koto, so to get a better sense of how it plays I built myself this 7-ply with lots of koto: koto(x3)-kiri-koto(x3). If it shows any promise, it obviously could be named K7. (too bad it wasn't a 9-ply) It's 5.6mm thick and about 89g.
I usually don't take the time to make fancy handles for my personal blades - especially experimental ones - but I wanted to get some of this afzelia burl before I used-up the block for other blades. The center stripe is some leftover turquoise maple burl. Can't wait to give it a try.        |
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liulin04
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Posted: 05/07/2014 at 10:46pm |
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Damn it Ross, don't make me take out my wallet!
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Ross Leidy
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Joined: 10/13/2011 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 402 |
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Posted: 05/07/2014 at 11:10pm |
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Who, me?
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liulin04
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Posted: 05/07/2014 at 11:12pm |
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I wonder if there's another Ross out there who makes such gorgeous blades? |
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Toprank
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Joined: 02/05/2011 Location: Ventura CA Status: Offline Points: 481 |
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Posted: 05/07/2014 at 11:18pm |
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Very nice blade Ross, once again. Koto is a nice wood to add to the inventory.
**update on the White Lightning Blade** I played with it the other day and my concern was it wouldn't have enough power and that it would be just a fun blade to play with, but not the blade that would be my main blade. Let me say the blade exceeded all expectations! It was a fast off- blade with a butter touch. Looped beautifully with lots of control and spin. Exactly my type of blade. I plan on switching it to my main blade after I use up the rubbers on my current JRE. I am a very satisfied customer and will have to work on another project next year. |
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CURRENT BLADE- Ross Leidy White Lightning
FH- Haifu Blue Whale II BH- Xiom Vega Europe |
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Ross Leidy
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Posted: 05/08/2014 at 1:10pm |
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I'm glad that the spruce core blade is working out well for you. Best of luck with your continuing training!
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Ross Leidy
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Joined: 10/13/2011 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 402 |
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Posted: 05/08/2014 at 1:14pm |
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That's good to hear! The port orford cedar outer is nice and soft, but it has a kick to it that helps bump the speed. Best of luck with the blade. I look forward to our next project. |
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frogger
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Posted: 05/08/2014 at 7:49pm |
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Holy *****, Ross you are killing us.
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Wood Paddle
Red side Black side. |
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regiz.rugenz
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Joined: 09/25/2013 Location: San Jose, CA. Status: Offline Points: 461 |
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Posted: 05/09/2014 at 3:22am |
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I will definitely need my financial aid soon on this.
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Regiz°ᆗ
Rosewood_Carbon/Huricane_King °FH:Vega_Japan/T64FX °BH:OmegaV_Euro/Rasant °°°° |
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ChrisUK
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Joined: 05/17/2013 Location: UK Status: Offline Points: 40 |
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Posted: 06/13/2014 at 4:58am |
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I have a new Ross Leidy blade on its way to me, so while I wait for it to arrive, I thought I’d post some details here (a review will follow when I have it). This blade is an “experimental” blade from Ross where he chooses the handle but I chose the woods to use. Whilst the handle is simple compared to my recent speciality gloss handles, I really like it. It looks very similar to the paduak wood handle that Ross made for my dad a while ago and that is one of the most comfortable non-gloss handles that I’ve held. Anyway, onto the blade but first, let give a bit of background as to how I arrived at this blade :) Why so many blades? This is the 6th blade that I’ve had from Ross and
whilst each blade that I’ve had have been great in their own special way, the
very first blade Ross made for me still has the best balance for both hitting
and blocking the ball. This original blade was constructed based on a Nittaku
Violin / Vioncello which is two layers of White Ash, a kiri core, then a
further two layers of White Ash. Whilst this original blade is superb, I wanted
to see if I could reduce the backhand rebound speed and further improve its
blocking abilities. This lead me on a journey of trying different combinations
of construction…. So far I’ve tried a standard Rapscallion, a modified Rapscallion (with slower medial and outer plies), a modified Violin blade with 2 x white ash on the forehand, but slower medial and outer plies and finally another all 2 x white ash, kiri and 2 x white ash. For some reason, the latest blade (2 x white ash / kiri / 2
x white ash) is superb for hitting with, but doesn’t block the ball as dead or
as short as my original 2 x white ash / kiri / 2 x white ash blade. Ross and I
put our heads together and discovered that for my original blade, he had used a
slightly heavier and denser kiri for the core, whereas in my latest blade, the
kiri used was lighter and less dense. Ross advised me that he still had the original block of kiri stored away from 3 years ago that was used to build my original blade. We therefore decided to put together an experimental blade using wood from this block again but change the medial and outer backhand plies to try and reduce the rebound speed and improve it’s blocking capabilities. So here it is! Blade Dimensions As with all of my blades from Ross, this blade uses his
“Oversize 3” template which is 162mm length and 158mm in width. It also
utilises a FL handle with a slightly steeper taper on the handle at the top which
helps me get my blocking angle right. Blade Construction - On the forehand, the medial and outer plies use white ash. - The core is constructed from the more dense block of kiri
at 3.25mm - The backhand medial ply is a thin layer of balsa which
should give the blade an increased breaking effect - The backhand outer ply is a thin layer of bamboo which
should give good spin reversal. Ross decided to use bamboo as the outer layer as it’s harder than white ash, has lower rebound properties and should be good for increasing spin reversal. The last two combi blades that I had that used balsa as a medial ply both had softer outer plies on the backhand. One used Anigre (Janka rating 930) and the other used black limba (Janka rating 490). Bamboo in comparison has a Janka rating of 1380, so it should feel noticeably harder and hopefully more positive when blocking. Blade Handle The handle on this blade has been kept simple as it is an
experimental blade, but I think it looks great. The wood used is Orange Agate
and although I’ve not held it yet, it looks very similar to the paduak handle
that my dad has on one of his blades which is very comfortable indeed. Photos White Ash forehand:
Bamboo backhand:
Handle close up shots:
A review will follow once I receive and glue up the blade :) Edited by ChrisUK - 06/13/2014 at 5:00am |
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The Twiddler
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SolidEvolution
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Posted: 06/13/2014 at 7:32am |
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This not so much an explanation as to why, but as much a statement to produce pure envy. |
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ChrisUK
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Posted: 06/13/2014 at 9:33am |
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The Twiddler
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ChrisUK
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Posted: 06/17/2014 at 6:34am |
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Initial report
The blade I posted above turned up yesterday and is already glued up with Tenergy 80-FX on the forehand and my usual Giant Long on the backhand. I had a good two hour practice on my robot last night and whilst I’ll temper my observations until I use it in a proper match, early impressions are very positive. Before I start getting into detail, it’s probably worth me providing brief details on my other blades: Blade 1 (weight circa 94g) – My original blade made up of - White Ash / White Ash / (older more dense) Kiri / White Ash / White Ash Blade 2 (weight circa 84g) – Modified Rapscallion made up of – Masur Birch – Mahogany – Kiri – Balsa – Anigre Blade 3 (weight circa 73g) - Modified version of my first blade made up of - White Ash / White Ash / (lighter less dense) Kiri / Balsa / Black Limba Blade 4 (weight circa 83g) – Similar to my original blade made up of - White Ash / White Ash / (lighter less dense) Kiri / White Ash / White Ash Of the above blades, the best one for both blocking and hitting was my original blade. It had power on the forehand but when blocking, I could kill the ball very well. However on very hard and fast shots, I was still difficult to defend with when blocking or chopping. New blade (weight circa 76g) – White Ash / White Ash / (older more dense) Kiri / Balsa / Bamboo Results with the new blade The new blade uses the same older more dense Kiri found in my original blade but swaps out the backhand medial and outer plies of white ash with balsa and bamboo. Last night I tested three blades; my old blade (blade 1) has Tenergy 05-FX, “blade 4” above has Tenergy 80-FX and my new blade also has the 80-FX on it. Test 1 - Blocking I tested the backhand first by setting my robot to play three balls to the backhand. The first was a slower spin ball, the second was a mid-speed ball and the third was a very fast ball (using the fastest speed setting on the robot). All of my blocks were open faced blocks where I was trying to keep the ball short. Using blade 4 above, I could easily block the first two balls but the third became a bit of a struggle. The new blade however was much easier. As I said above, I’ll temper these observations until I play a proper match with the blade, but straight away the backhand on this new blade felt the easiest to control. The first thing I noticed was the lower rebound straight off the block meaning that it was very easy to keep the ball down. Next it took the speed out of the ball very well but was not so slow that the ball floated back. It has a very positive hard feel to it which in turn makes it very easy to control the ball. Even on the fastest speed setting (which is fast!) and I could still get the ball to double bounce off the block!! Whilst I didn’t test it last night, from memory Blade 3 above is a very slow blade (it uses similar woods to Ross’ Wave USB blade). However it had a much softer feeling on the backhand so on fast balls, I was still struggling to keep the ball down. The new blade does not suffer from this problem. It kills speed effectively and keeps the ball nice and low where the ball is going to be more difficult for my opponent to attack. Test 2 – Aggressively slicing, pushing and chopping One of the more attacking shots that I like to do with my pips is to attack against a ball where my opponents has put backspin on it. Where possible, I like to aggressively chop / slice through the ball to reverse some of the spin and give them a low flat ball back. This shot requires a very solid contact because if it’s too soft, the backspin takes the ball into the net and if it’s too hard, the ball goes long. Blade 1 was very good at performing this shot, but Blade 4 was not. I can only assume it’s because the Kiri cores are slightly different, but with Blade 4 it’s very hard to keep the ball down low. Therefore I end up playing a more passive shot and I get less effect from my pips when I do so. The new blade is spot on for this shot. Due to the lower rebound speed, I found that I could really slice / push into the ball and get great effect and very good accuracy. I counted the balls I got on and missed and with Blade 1 I got about 7 out of 10 shots on, Blade 4 I got 4 out of 10 on and the new blade I got them all on (10 out of 10). Sufficed to say I was very impressed! To summarise the backhand on the new blade, the balsa takes the speed out of the ball very well and the harder bamboo gives a lower rebound rate (so you don’t get the balsa type pop) and also great spin reversal. Forehand hitting On the forehand, the new blade feels slightly slower than Blades 1 and 4. It makes more of a deep "thunk" sound with greater vibration through the handle whereas Blades 1 and 4 make more of a “plink” sound. Initial thoughts was that the forehand might be too slow, however after a few hits I realised that I just needed to get used to the difference in feel through the handle and the difference in sound. Also with the 80-FX on the forehand, it still does have power, but I need to practice to get used to the different feel. Only two hours’ worth of practice isn’t really enough to judge it I think. Current conclusions Overall the blade feels light, well balanced with superb control on the backhand for both defending and aggressive slicing / pushing. I will reserve judgement on the forehand until I play a match with it, but I think it’ll be fine once I’ve had some playing time with it.
Edited by ChrisUK - 06/17/2014 at 6:37am |
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The Twiddler
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Aman1234
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Posted: 06/18/2014 at 11:04am |
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Ross (or anyone else)
Has anyone made a custom blade out of marine grade 1/4" Okoume plywood? What would the characteristics be? Will it be too heavy for a table tennis blade? I am building a canoe and will have some 1/4" Okoume plywood left over. I guess I will find out how it plays. Thanks,
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BTY TBS
FH Tibhar Evolution FX-P BH Donic Bluefire M3 |
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Ross Leidy
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Posted: 06/18/2014 at 11:11am |
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It might be a little heavy, a little hard, but certainly playable (and probably fast).
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Ross Leidy
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Posted: 06/18/2014 at 11:15am |
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Hi Chris, Thanks for your initial report. You've certainly put in a heroic effort in your quest for finding just the right composition. I hope the blade continues to please as you get acquainted with it.
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LOOPMEISTER
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Posted: 06/18/2014 at 11:16am |
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I love this thread.
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spinitgood
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Posted: 06/19/2014 at 1:26am |
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agreed! |
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Rasant Grip max on FH,Rasant powersponge max on BH
Glued on a Ross Leidy custom blade - mahogany mahogany spruce mahogany mahogany |
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regiz.rugenz
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Joined: 09/25/2013 Location: San Jose, CA. Status: Offline Points: 461 |
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Posted: 06/19/2014 at 5:35am |
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I love the subject here.. so productive to related parties and to all interested alike.  I know later I'll have my own blade as well that I will proclaim my very own arsenal of choice.. carefully molded into its perfection in all it's aspects by the honorable blade master, Ross. Edited by regiz.rugenz - 06/19/2014 at 5:56am |
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Regiz°ᆗ
Rosewood_Carbon/Huricane_King °FH:Vega_Japan/T64FX °BH:OmegaV_Euro/Rasant °°°° |
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ChrisUK
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Posted: 06/20/2014 at 3:02am |
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Ross, honestly it's been great fun trying out different blades and especially such nice blades as well. The new blade continues to impress and the forehand is getting a lot better. I really need to try it in a real game rather than just on my robot. However just from robot play, it feels better and better each time I use it which I guess is just familiarity. It does have speed but what I really need to assess is it's looping power from distance, something of which is a little difficult to practice at home due to available space. I'll report back again when I've played a few real games Edited by ChrisUK - 06/20/2014 at 3:04am |
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The Twiddler
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Ross Leidy
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Posted: 06/22/2014 at 9:49pm |
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Puzzling
Just a fun handle design.     |
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Tassie52
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Posted: 06/23/2014 at 3:58am |
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Puzzling? Fabulous!
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liulin04
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Posted: 06/23/2014 at 4:14am |
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Amazing Ross!
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regiz.rugenz
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Posted: 06/23/2014 at 4:29am |
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I think I'm going to worship Ross once I have figured the right composition for my future blade.. until then my Lord.
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Regiz°ᆗ
Rosewood_Carbon/Huricane_King °FH:Vega_Japan/T64FX °BH:OmegaV_Euro/Rasant °°°° |
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Ross Leidy
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Posted: 06/23/2014 at 12:11pm |
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Nope. Can't live up to that.
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regiz.rugenz
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Posted: 06/23/2014 at 8:45pm |
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perhaps if I win a world title I'll worship such a blade then.
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Regiz°ᆗ
Rosewood_Carbon/Huricane_King °FH:Vega_Japan/T64FX °BH:OmegaV_Euro/Rasant °°°° |
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yogi_bear
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Posted: 06/23/2014 at 9:08pm |
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awesome blade ross, is that walnut? as a blade maker, what do you think is the difference between kiri and ayous as centra core?
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Independent online TT Product reviewer of XIOM, STIGA, JOOLA, SANWEI, GEWO, AIR, ITC, APEX, YASAKA and ABROS
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Ross Leidy
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Posted: 06/24/2014 at 9:50am |
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Yes, it's curly Australian walnut. The blade is an experimental composition that's the same as one I sent off recently as a raffle prize in the Heritage Oil Open in the UK. I was working on the original for myself when the request came in, so I just completed it for the raffle. This 2nd one is for me. Regarding kiri vs. ayous: Kiri is lighter, softer and a bit more bouncy/springy. Ayous is heavier, harder, stiffer, and not as bouncy. Ayous seems to have a more controlled rebound. Kiri seems a bit more lively.
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liulin04 wrote:
