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Blade Sealing |
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Rich215
Premier Member Joined: 02/28/2008 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 3488 |
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This depends on many factors. What type of sealer was used, how much was used (how thick it was or was not applied), and what type of wood is on the surface of the blade. Some sealers last a long time....some are very thin and may require resealing from time to time. It will depend on how often you change your rubbers or re-glue them. You will definitely know when it it time to reseal your blade when you find tiny (hopefully) wood splinters in the glue on the rubber when you take the rubber off the blade. But, it it could be too late if you see large splinters coming up. |
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juanma4080
Super Member Joined: 01/15/2017 Location: vegeta Status: Offline Points: 431 |
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so i have a question, wich brand of sealing it´s the best? could say some tabe tennis brands? revolution nr3. or donic....etc or maybe from furniture, and wich water glue it´s the best for a sealing blade?
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tommyzai
Premier Member Senior Animator Joined: 02/17/2007 Location: Tucson AZ USA Status: Offline Points: 9289 |
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I previously used water-based Varathane, but later switched to an oil-based mini wax (both clear satin finish). The reason I switched was . . . the oil-based penetrates the top layer better to bind the fibers whereas the water-based only binds the very top fluffy layer and sits on top more . . . probably better for over-sealing or lacquering. HOWEVER, lately I've become more concern with health and keeping my racket legal. As a result, I have switched to: Safecoat PolyureSeal BP by AFM. It's non-toxic. Regardless of what you use, use sparingly . . . put sealant on a clean cotton clothe that does not fray or have fibers falling off it . . . then evenly rub into top ply, careful not to allow spillage over the edge (wipe the edge after coat). I usually let it dry and go over it once more, but that depends on the type of wood, e.g., Hinoki usually doesn't need additional coats. I hope this helps. All the best and happy sealing. Tzai.
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For More Info, PM or Email me: [email protected]
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tommyzai
Premier Member Senior Animator Joined: 02/17/2007 Location: Tucson AZ USA Status: Offline Points: 9289 |
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PS. Don't seal if you need an excuse to buy a new blade. ;-)
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For More Info, PM or Email me: [email protected]
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DreiZ
Platinum Member Joined: 06/01/2009 Location: New York, US Status: Online Points: 2574 |
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I started to seal all my blades last year and I chose MINWAX Wipe On Poly - Clear Satin based on recommendations on this forum. Its an oil based sealer that absorbs into the wood. I only use one coat by dipping a normal glue sponge and covering the blade and then wiping off any excess with a cotton rag. No need to sand since this stuff absorbs into the wood pretty well. I tried clear satin and gloss version of the Wipe On Poly. Clear satin adds a slightly darker shade to bare wood while gloss version adds a sheen which I didn't like. I recommend sealing all your blades especially if you reglue a lot with water based glue. Sealing the handle with the same method also protects from sweaty hands and actually for me adds a tiny bit more grip. If anyone has any questions on my method of sealing I can post step by step if you are new to this. I haven't noticed any changes to the blade feel, speed, or anything like that. Sealing might add a gram or two to the overall weight of the blade. |
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Ovtcharov Innerforce ALC 85g
FH/BH: Glayzer 09C 2.1mm USATT: 1725 |
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tommyzai
Premier Member Senior Animator Joined: 02/17/2007 Location: Tucson AZ USA Status: Offline Points: 9289 |
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Ditto!! If there is a difference, it's not noticeable . . . unless you put a zillion layers on the blade so it looks like a high-gloss coffee table. Do a search for a member called Hookshot. We did a lot of experimenting over the years.
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DreiZ
Platinum Member Joined: 06/01/2009 Location: New York, US Status: Online Points: 2574 |
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I followed your recommendation when I started to seal my blades tommyzai |
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Ovtcharov Innerforce ALC 85g
FH/BH: Glayzer 09C 2.1mm USATT: 1725 |
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Baal
Forum Moderator Joined: 01/21/2010 Location: unknown Status: Offline Points: 14336 |
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A simple approach is old fashioned hair spray. Let it dry on the blade. Then glue. Doesn't interfere with glue sticking the rubber to the blade which can happen with some sealed blades.
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DreiZ
Platinum Member Joined: 06/01/2009 Location: New York, US Status: Online Points: 2574 |
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I think that can happen with oversealing or using those water based top coat sealers tommyzai mentioned. With oil based wipe on poly 1 layer absorbs really well into the bare wood and retains the original bare wood texture. I was afraid of splintering when taking off rubbers, hence started sealing. |
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Ovtcharov Innerforce ALC 85g
FH/BH: Glayzer 09C 2.1mm USATT: 1725 |
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ThePongProfessor
Forum Moderator Joined: 11/17/2014 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 1528 |
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Sticky?
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tommyzai
Premier Member Senior Animator Joined: 02/17/2007 Location: Tucson AZ USA Status: Offline Points: 9289 |
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For a non-toxic, VOC-Free sealant:
http://www.afmsafecoat.com/products/clear-finishes/safecoat-polyureseal-bp-satin For better top-ply penetration at the cost of some out-gassing: https://www.minwax.com/wood-products/clear-protective-finishes/interior/minwax-fastdrying-polyurethane Both dry completely within 24 hours (48 is best).
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For More Info, PM or Email me: [email protected]
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Ranger-man
Gold Member Joined: 03/27/2008 Location: Pakistan Status: Offline Points: 987 |
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I bought a Nittaku Violin Cpen from you many years ago and it is one of the most perfectly sealed blades I have seen. Still flexy, great feeling and not very fast. Loops like a dream. You don't by any chance run a sealing service do you?
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Darker Speed 90 10mm: Dawei IQUL
Ahinoki Lutz Spruce Jpen: 729 SuperFX Member: 1-ply Hinoki Club Violin/Acoustic Clan The speed of a Rhino and the power of a Gazelle! |
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tommyzai
Premier Member Senior Animator Joined: 02/17/2007 Location: Tucson AZ USA Status: Offline Points: 9289 |
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Ranger-man, you're too kind. ;-) Thanks, my friend. Glad it worked out. No sealing service at this time, but . . .
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For More Info, PM or Email me: [email protected]
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Ranger-man
Gold Member Joined: 03/27/2008 Location: Pakistan Status: Offline Points: 987 |
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I have clear varnish, the one used for furniture and I also have a few premades lying around. I have removed the rubbers, and sanded them clean of all sponge and glue residue. They will be my guinea pigs as I experiment my sealing skills before I move on to one of my blades.
I have it in both a spray can and the regular can where I would need to use a brush or thin cotton cloth. I am thinking it might be hard to get an even layer that is uniformly thick with the spray so I will go with the cotton cloth. |
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Darker Speed 90 10mm: Dawei IQUL
Ahinoki Lutz Spruce Jpen: 729 SuperFX Member: 1-ply Hinoki Club Violin/Acoustic Clan The speed of a Rhino and the power of a Gazelle! |
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