Peter Panned

I was really enjoying using an all wood blade last night when BANG!



Just a light tap of the blade on my hip, and the handle snapped clean off. And it was all going so well...

I think that burned core makes things a little brittle. Shame - the Nexy Peter Pan is my favourite 5 ply. Will have to get another one.

BH-Man wrote: That is the zone where most of my blades crack if it isn't along the side of blade with the veneers.

I'm generally very gentle with my blades. This was a bit of a freak incident really. I was gutted at the time - just stood there for a good 2 minutes looking at the handle in my hand, jaw slack.

I'll have to get a replacement. Love the Pan's pumped-up middle gears too much.

Couple months ago I had an eerily similar incident. When taking a backswing I think it was, I accidentally hit the arm of a guy playing at a table next to where I was playing, not too hard really. The whole head of my PeterPan rocketed away leaving me gripping the bare severed handle in awe. It was hilarious really, good thing nobody got hurt.

Though I remember enjoying PeterPan a lot, I decided to move on after that - the thing is just too delicate, it's like playing with a Belgian waffle, overburnt at that.

That being typed, I do not think Nexy products are inferior in general. I am slowly learning to love a hard rubber-clad Lissom.

jrscatman wrote: Isn't it an easy fix? Can't you just glue it back?

hhca wrote: jrscatman wrote: Isn't it an easy fix? Can't you just glue it back?   That's what I was thinking. Some epoxy will fix that quick. It shouldn't affect the playing characteristic either I would assume

cole_ely wrote: yeah, that blade is dead, sorry.   you can't fix any damage to the core plies

I can't agree.
I have restored fully damaged blade like this with a great success.
The blade is going little more hard and faster after my labor, I just think so.
May be and 2-3 grams higher in weight.

But to restore a fully broken blade in the middle of the handle I must have some really well deserved reason.

Usually the more cheaper blades are never interest for restorations, as you can always buy them once again instead to pay double delivery and price for the restoration.
That is my own opinion.

By the way, I was impressed from the video with the broken during contact with the ball only tennis paddle. It seems it happened from something connected with the resonance inside the material. May be the finish was not very well made. These paddles are 100% carbon fiber as I know and surely we will have chance to see the same if the table tennis paddles are going to be produced form carbons only.
I haven't seen another case like this.

Thanks for the sharing!

Good luck in the searching about a new blade!

jrscatman wrote: Isn't it an easy fix? Can't you just glue it back?

jrscatman wrote: Apparently expert opinion is that it cannot be repaired. I noticed you've purchased a new one - will you be doing anything to strengthen the area of the break?

Even if it could be repaired, I'd always be doubting. Every missed loop, I'd look at the bat and wonder. Always in my mind.

I won't do anything to the replacement. I might buy a Galaxy MC-2 and keep it with me by the side of the table when I'm playing. If I get worked up during a match, I'll pick the MC-2 up and smack my hip with that instead. It can be my proxy abuse bat.

I don't usually do this with my bats, by the way. Must be the first time in years I've done it, and probably the last.

beeray1 wrote: http://mytabletennis.net/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=62262&PN=1&title=rosewood-rip-psyche Here's my journey with the same exact thing. I know you got a new one, but it might be worth trying. :)

Wow - looks good actually! How did it all work out in the end? I can't see any info beyond your initial bounce test?

I might give it a try anyway and use the repaired one as a backup.

Geardaddy's dowel suggestion will work but the blade will play differently. I have fixed blades in this way before. I also used to make custom blades. Thing that is important to realize is that the direction of the wood fibers is what give the wood its strength. In general a blade needs to have a few layers of wood grain running vertically from top to bottom think of Hinoki 1 plys.  A break like this destroys that necessary structure. Personally, I would get a new blade and try repairing it as an experiment.