Using hide glue

(cgswss)  Anyway, my question is, has anyone ever tried basicly the same blade only with different glues side by side?  This blade is spoken for, but I was thinking of making another just like it, and one with the same wood but different glue, for testing.

Hide glue gives better feel but if you don't know what you are doing it is more prone to later blade problems such as warping.

CHEERS!

Well You may be the guy- your in the US so shipping is not too bad.  I assume you can furnish your own rubbers.  Have you published any blade tests?  If I do this, it will be a "blind test".  That is I won't tell you which is which until after you test and tell me where the blades stand.  I assume you have some playing partners That can give us their opinions.  

fatt wrote: Hello i am the one who bought your tiger blade to try. Vert good stuff !!! Don't give up you make Very GOOD blades! More to come...

Dr.Cho wrote: From what I have read hide glue never fully drys. And layers can be removed later if there is a problem. More problems and longer time working with it so cost is more. But better feeling and maybe larger sweet spot. I have some but never got around to trying it.

I thought I'd mention something else about hide glue.  I was asked not long ago if I use one of the liquid hide glues.  I'm relying on many writes ups in wood working mags here, but most of those write up say the liquid stuff is NOT the same as the stuff you buy as flakes and mix up in a hot pot.  Because of this, I chose to use "real" hide glue for my blades.  Its a hassle, I have to put the flakes in water and let them soak for a day, then it goes in a double boiler to heat up to 140*F and finally on to the wood very quickly before it starts to set.  If the testers find there is a real advantage to hide glue, I might make a couple more test paddles, one with real, pain in the ass, hide glue and one with liquid, right out of the bottle, sorta hide glue.  There is one other glue.  Its called "Old brown glue"  this is real hide glue that they add some stuff to to keep it liquid.  It has a very short shelf live and still requires you heat it up to use it, but at least its ready to go when you need it.  

Blades look great! Please update us when the reviews come back!

It's quarter sawed black limba

Only in my dreams could I do something as good as Ross.  My main goal is doing the wood combos that people want in hope of coming up with great playing blades.  A local player (that I play against from time to time) has a Banshee.  He uses soft 1.7 sponge rubbers (Butterfly Sriver 1.7).  He may be dressing it up a bit to flatter me, but he says its the best looper he has ever used.  I can tell you he has control with it as good as I have seen and a serve that is as hard to return as anyone I play against (And I play long pips!)  It won't be long before we have real tests, as 2 testers now will have them.  The other paddle is a Fiddler with palm  swell grip,  Ash outters with Kiri core.  I've made a number of these, but none for locals and I have had no feed back.  I tried it with T05 and it was too fast for me.  SO I went the other way and put 999 defense on it.  I got fantastic serves out of it and as good of loops as I can do, but its not the right blade for my "style".  I'm a recently converted pen hold player.  About 98% of my game is still backhands and pushing just off the bounce.

That's the whole point of the test we are doing. I made two Banshee blades. One is yellow glue the other is real hide glue. Not liquid hide glue. Those two blades have been sent off to an experienced blade tester along with a Fiddler. He won't know which blade is hide glue until after he does the test. He has used other blades made with hide glue in the past but never the same blade with two different glue

I stick with kiri because it is stiffer for a given weight. It seems every time I make a blade the first question is how much does it weigh. Without going to balsa kiri is the go to wood. At least for me. Frankly I make blades with a spruce core that I love but then we are talking 90-95g blades. And no one seems to want a blade over 85

Well I really like spruce. And I really like it with ash outers sounds like a baseball bat at the ballpark. But frankly it's too fast for me since I converted to long pips one of the blades I play with is a thick balsa core oversize blade the other has a kiri core. My brother just bought a table and I'm making blades for them. All three will have kiri or kiri thin ply cores

Thanks to cgswss I was given three blades to test, of which two blades are similar to Butterfly Korbel in design and are near identical
to each other except for the glue used. One is glued with hide glue and the other yellow glue. One red handle (red) and one yellow handle (yellow) at 82gr a piece. I am to determine if there is any noticeable difference and which is the hide glue.

Upon receiving them I gave the standard sound test. I hold a blade on its edges with my thumb and middle finger and gently tap the handle end on my head to hear the sound and vibration of the blade. The red one has a very slightly higher sound but only if you are very very careful to listen. I would even say it's impossible to tell but am told initially the difference was more.

I then play with each blades several times with the same set of rubbers. I found that yellow plays slightly slower and has way more control and more feel then the red, in counter hits, loops, blocks, and pushes. This is very clear and not just a little difference. It's not only my opinion but others who got to test them both also agree. Yellow has a very very small softer feel, and that feeling is transfer to the hand slightly better. Yellow holds the ball longer and better. Both have about the same size sweet spot.

Short and sweat, I pick the yellow as glued with hide glue. I think cgswss should continue using hide glue in his blade making since it does make a difference.

thethinker

Thanks fatt. Look forward to your review as well.
Yellow is a very interesting all wood 5-ply blade. It's Limba outer and Kiri core and is hard and flexible, very unique. The only blade I can compare to is TB ZLC but it is slightly less hard and very flexible like Stiga allround.

very nice blades!

Edited by kuklovod - 06/20/2015 at 11:40pm

noway i meant its (cheap?) liquid ready to use version. but i meant genuine fish glue originally made of sturgeon's fish maws using heated water bath and my sources consider it to be of better quality than hide glues. today of course there should be a vast variety of fish glues, made not only of maws (rather costly), but also fish skin etc.