glueing 2 blades to make 1

i have just switched to lp on bh. love my stiga infinity but lp are not great on it. tried lp on a tsp balsa 6.5mm and they are amazing but fh is too bouncy for tenergy.

so am i allowed to glue 2 blades together ie balsa 3.5 to stiga infinity, i would remove handles glue them together and put handles back on and sand all the edges equally, i assume this would be legal as it still meets wood requirements? anyone ever done anything similar?

there is blades with one side OFF and other side DEF. you may need just buy one of them

Most asymmetric blades on the market now don't really show that much difference from one side to another, but rather as something in between the two sides, since the blade tends to react as a single entity to the ball impact.  You might notice the difference on really soft shots.

What Mog is proposing would be pretty extreme and that would have to be noticeable.  It would be perfectly legal.  But the resulting blade would be very stiff and fat!  And heavy.

You could take a blade you like for LP and add one or more veneers of wood to it for the inverted; choose the wood based on how fast you want that side. I know someone who plays with a defensive blade, and has a birch veneer on one side. It makes it much faster on that side, but still great with LP's on the other side.

Rather than H3, try H2 with TSP Balsa 6.5, it will be good for chopping and loopdriving close to the table.
That style actually might not be a bad idea in 40+ era.

yes its more the bounciness of balsa and tenergy is too on and off. I think with hurricane it will be ok and the added spin I get from hurricane should contrast the lps nicely and make people think a little

Hozuki wrote: Rather than H3, try H2 with TSP Balsa 6.5, it will be good for chopping and loopdriving close to the table. That style actually might not be a bad idea in 40+ era.

SmackDAT wrote: Hozuki wrote: Rather than H3, try H2 with TSP Balsa 6.5, it will be good for chopping and loopdriving close to the table. That style actually might not be a bad idea in 40+ era. Chinese rubbers aren't great for chopping, look at Chen Weixing! A TSP chop/attack rubber would be way better suited, I got destoryed an amazing modern chopper who used TSP triple spin (or something along those lines)

Are you trying to troll yourself?
Chinese rubbers are excellent for chopping, look at Ma Te.

I own a TSP balsa with H2 and it's a great combo for what it's intended for.
Original H2 is better than H2N and 41 degree is best.
You can easily counterloop everything due to the very low throw nature of the setup. But this makes it very hard to loop underspin. Also, if you want to attack then you need to be close to the table.

so its infinity and Andro carbon light all+

It should lose a bit more weight when I sand everything off equally

Chairman Meow wrote: You may be able to use the edge as a valid playing surface. Try some short pips for deadly, unexpected punches; or frictionless anti to have a safe way to return everything short and low.

Rofl thats brilliant. For a long time ive been trying to train a trick serve with the edge, meant to look like basic underspin but reallt being a sudden brutal edge punch. This might be a solution hhhh.

+1 to glueing rubber round the edge of the frankensteins monster

I have ~1cm of rubber around my blade, and sometimes edge hits that would normally fly out go in because of it.

Do you mean the thick balsa blade works well with typical Chinese rubbers?

Edited by book4all - 12/20/2017 at 1:24am