Which rubbers below won't survive re-gluing?

Gotta wait in between also rubber cement doesn't just come off but the effect dies within a week or two so beware. Use tearmender to rip off the old existing glue. I have been boosting my mxp like such

Elmer’s might make regluing even harder since it tends to stretch the rubbers, which worsens the shrinking when you unglue. Tearmender doesn’t do that but I find it much harder to get good results with than eg revolution number 3.

To be honest I don’t understand the point of skimping in glue when working with such expensive pieces of rubber.   When paying this much for rubber, I find compromising their performance and durability to save a few dimes on glue to be the much bigger waste of money.. IMO the best way to save money in this equation is to buy rubbers on sale, and to take all the care we can to get max performance and durability out of them.

About whether rubbers can be reglued well, look for comments about rubber shrinkage in the threads about those rubbers.

Edited by ohwell - 02/25/2018 at 12:59pm

By the way guys I don't use rubber cement on new rubbers lol I use nittaku finezip water based glue and only on old dead rubbers I put some elmers on lol. Typically for backup blades or rubbers for example if my mains got damaged or got stolen etc

ohwell wrote: Elmer’s might make regluing even harder since it tends to stretch the rubbers, which worsens the shrinking when you unglue. Tearmender doesn’t do that but I find it much harder to get good results with than eg revolution number 3. To be honest I don’t understand the point of skimping in glue when working with such expensive pieces of rubber.   When paying this much for rubber, I find compromising their performance and durability to save a few dimes on glue to be the much bigger waste of money.. IMO the best way to save money in this equation is to buy rubbers on sale, and to take all the care we can to get max performance and durability out of them. About whether rubbers can be reglued well, look for comments about rubber shrinkage in the threads about those rubbers.

If you need to save money do it however you feel comfortable. I have never been able to make Tearmender work consistently and I buy enough rubbers at a discount that it makes sense not to save on quality glue.   My preferred brand is Donic Varioclean. Rubber cement is also for people who like the feel and who do not might the shrinkage and stretching from the VOCs.

I am making my best attempt to be not too denigrating of people who use rubber cement and cheap glues to work with $30 to $40 rubbers. But again, money means different things to different people.

Here is my experience with Revolution #3.  It comes in different viscosities.  I recommend the thickest one for ease of use or if you use Tenergy or other rubbers with large pores.  Also, it does an unusually bad job of adhering rubbers to even lightly sealed blades.  It does come off the rubber pretty easily, but if you want it to behave like the videos, be prepared to used multiple layers.

I agree that if you spend a lot on rubber, don't go cheap on the glue!

Baal wrote: Here is my experience with Revolution #3.  It comes in different viscosities.  I recommend the thickest one for ease of use or if you use Tenergy or other rubbers with large pores.  Also, it does an unusually bad job of adhering rubbers to even lightly sealed blades.  It does come off the rubber pretty easily, but if you want it to behave like the videos, be prepared to used multiple layers. I agree that if you spend a lot on rubber, don't go cheap on the glue!

Agreed that certain kinds of thick sealants can cause problems with it, for sure. (IMO the Revo 3 sealant is one of those, ironically.) No problem so far with thinner sealants like Minwax wipe-on poly and BBC’s non hardening sealant.

Having used all 3 viscosities, I see what you mean. The thick is least unlike other glues. I prefer the normal viscosity even with decently large pores because of how well it levels, and how seamlessly the glue layers merge with one another, but YMMV.

The thing that made me think it might be especially suited for the OP is how easily it comes off sponges (at least in normal viscosity). To me that’s a boon when regluing a lot. (Not just because glue builds up, but also because making mistakes when regluing can make removing the glue a must. I’ve ruined rubbers trying to remove glue lumps that held too tightly to the sponge.) Nittaku finezip does pretty well too, on that score.

But there are lots of great TT glues out there if ease of removal from sponge isn’t a big concern.

Finezip might be quite expensive but it's sponge friendly, thicker and sponge friendly. Besides, booster effect last longer than any glue since.

I have used Rev#3 . normal on a newly boosted H3 still with a slight curl on a varnished blade and it sticks, 2 to 3 coats on the rubber and one on the blade.

jonyer1980 wrote: Finezip might be quite expensive but it's sponge friendly, thicker and sponge friendly. Besides, booster effect last longer than any glue since.

removing glue buildup in brittle sponges are a problem you just cant rub
any technique to clean the sponge?

Dream1700 wrote: bbkon wrote: jonyer1980 wrote: Finezip might be quite expensive but it's sponge friendly, thicker and sponge friendly. Besides, booster effect last longer than any glue since. removing glue buildup in brittle sponges are a problem you just cant rub any technique to clean the sponge? Example of using Tear Mender to pull off old glue: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x-gb1vOM1nk

T05 sponge is not brittle