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Gluing OX LPs
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Veet View Drop Down
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    Posted: 03/15/2018 at 3:21am
Hello,

I've recently purchased, Dawei 388D-1 LP in OX. This'll be my first LP, ever.

I've never attempted to Glue-on rubbers (OX, or otherwise), and have always got it done from a local shop. But, these guys are not too sure about gluing OX LPs. However they're offering to stick them on with some un-branded Glue-sheets, which I'm not to happy about. Infact, I'm not too keen on Glue-sheets, at all.

So, I'm thinking of doing it, myself. I've bought some Donic Vario Clean Glue. I have not sealed/lacquered my blade (Donic Defplay Senso V3) 

I'd like some suggestions, links to tutorials, how-tos, Videos, on how to Glue OX sheets ... I went through the forum and Google search, but found really varied answers...

Is the following, the best suited way to do so : -

MATERIAL
  1. Donic Vario Clean Glue (Or any other thin, water-based, VOC free Glue)
  2. Sponge(s) to apply glue
  3. Sharp pair of scissors (or Cutting Blade ?)
  4. Flat Surface to work on (Table)
  5. Some books, for weight.
  6. Edge Tape (Optional)
PROCESS
  1. Make sure that the blade surface and OX LP surface are clean, and dust/particle free
  2. Apply evenly, a thin layer of Glue to the OX LP, and set aside to dry, for 10 mins (or till it looks clear).
  3. Apply evenly, a thin layer of Glue to the BH side of the blade, and set aside to dry, for 10 mins (or till it looks clear).
  4. Apply evenly, a second(??), thin layer of Glue to the OX LP, and set aside to dry, for 10 mins (or till it looks clear).
  5. Apply evenly, a second(??), thin layer of Glue to the BH side of the blade, and set aside to dry, for 10 mins (or till it looks clear).
  6. Now, lay the glued side of the OX LP onto a non-stick parchment paper(??), or a plastic/acrylic card type sheet(??), with the top of the label of the LP, sticking out of the plastic sheet (??)
  7. Now, the lay the blade on the table (Glued side facing up), with handle sticking-outside the table (Always handle blade this way). 
  8. Now, line-up the centre of Label to the centre blade's handle, and start sticking the LP.
  9. Then use a roller to even-out any bubble, bumps, bleeps, blobs, etc etc..
  10. Pull the plastic sheet, a bit away from the top of blade's head, so that the next portion of the rubber can stick to the blade. 
  11. Repeat steps 9& 10, progressively, until the entire rubber sheet is stuck to the glued side of the blade.
  12. As an added measure, use the roller on the entire surface.
  13. Put the books on, and leave for 30 mins(?)
  14. Start cutting (Is it advisable to leave a 2mm over-hand, where the index finger (Shake-hand) would rest ?)
  15. Cover with edge-tape (Optional)
Have is missed something, in understanding how to Glue ? 

I never scored anything better than a D in craft.

Is there a better way ? or to fine-tune the above ?
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LUCKYLOOP View Drop Down
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Simple procedure ..

Only put glue on blade not the rubber

let dry 20 minutes

roll up rubber leaving label exposed

start at bottom with straight label

then roll the rubber upward

press down any bubbles with your fingers

cut excess rubber after 1 hour to make sure you don't have any shrinkage



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Originally posted by LUCKYLOOP LUCKYLOOP wrote:


Simple procedure ..

Only put glue on blade not the rubber

let dry 20 minutes

roll up rubber leaving label exposed

start at bottom with straight label

then roll the rubber upward

press down any bubbles with your fingers

cut excess rubber after 1 hour to make sure you don't have any shrinkage

Not a bad idea .... I could even roll-out the rubber on the roller itself, and then just roll it onto the rubber (??) 

But, if I put Glue, just on the blade, will the adhesion be strong enough, and will it last ?
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I have a simple way of gluing and the glue job ends up being perfect every single time.
I use a wax paper from an old H3 packaging. It's the white looking paper, not clear. I apply glue to the rubber and the blade. Let it all sit 10-15 minutes. Then I stick the paper to the rubber leaving 1 inch at the bottom. Next holding the rubber with both hands, affix the rubber and using a roller (I use a tube of construction adhesive) roll the rubber onto the blade while removing the film/paper. It is mess and bubble free and works every single time. I let it all sit some more and cut the rubber with a sharp knife. Looks perfect when all done.
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Originally posted by Veet Veet wrote:

Originally posted by LUCKYLOOP LUCKYLOOP wrote:


Simple procedure ..

Only put glue on blade not the rubber

let dry 20 minutes

roll up rubber leaving label exposed

start at bottom with straight label

then roll the rubber upward

press down any bubbles with your fingers

cut excess rubber after 1 hour to make sure you don't have any shrinkage

Not a bad idea .... I could even roll-out the rubber on the roller itself, and then just roll it onto the rubber (??) 

But, if I put Glue, just on the blade, will the adhesion be strong enough, and will it last ?

I put a slight heavier coat of glue on the blade, after applying the rubber - put some books on the top overnight.
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I do the same way  that is use in those videos: 

 https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HdoqhxnMkro

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=CokTmyOkQ04

With white glue, without solvent, there are less danger getting any bubbles after gluing but anyway, should you have some bubbles, use a little needle, make little holes where the bubble is and it will go away.
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Here's a tip I don't see mentioned as much: PRACTICE!

Get a couple cheap chinese pips that you don't really care about and practice your technique on an old blade. Even the most fail-proof of methods can get bungled when the stakes are high and you're nervous cause it's your first time.

Lord knows I've got my own graveyard of shriveled OX pips, mangled beyond repair.

Take the pressure off yourself and do a few practice runs first.
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There is another new way to glue ox lp.  You can try using InnoGlue, it is available on Amazon if you are in USA.  What I do is I use a small piece of sponge instead of the little blue scoop provided.  I dip the sponge to spread a thin layer of InnoGlue on the ox lp. You don't need to apply on the racket at all. 

Then the excess InnoGlue, I am just wipe it along the top of the glue bottom so that all the excess glue will go back into the bottle.

Then I will wait for the glue to dry over night as opposed to the recommended 15 to 20 minutes by the supplier.  Then next day, you can apply the ox onto the blade.  The good thing with InnoGlue is that you can remove the ox lp and attache to another racket(s) numerous time without apply additional glue.
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Originally posted by Veet Veet wrote:

Originally posted by LUCKYLOOP LUCKYLOOP wrote:


Simple procedure ..

Only put glue on blade not the rubber

let dry 20 minutes

roll up rubber leaving label exposed

start at bottom with straight label

then roll the rubber upward

press down any bubbles with your fingers

cut excess rubber after 1 hour to make sure you don't have any shrinkage


Not a bad idea .... I could even roll-out the rubber on the roller itself, and then just roll it onto the rubber (??) 

But, if I put Glue, just on the blade, will the adhesion be strong enough, and will it last ?


Yes, occasionally, around edges comes loose, then just hold back, reglue blade there, fixed. I play with all my long pips like that.
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Originally posted by Joo Se Kev Joo Se Kev wrote:

Here's a tip I don't see mentioned as much: PRACTICE!

Get a couple cheap chinese pips that you don't really care about and practice your technique on an old blade. Even the most fail-proof of methods can get bungled when the stakes are high and you're nervous cause it's your first time.

Lord knows I've got my own graveyard of shriveled OX pips, mangled beyond repair.

Take the pressure off yourself and do a few practice runs first.


Acetone will unshrivel all those long pips OX without damaging them.
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Originally posted by Joo Se Kev Joo Se Kev wrote:

Here's a tip I don't see mentioned as much: PRACTICE!

Get a couple cheap chinese pips that you don't really care about and practice your technique on an old blade. Even the most fail-proof of methods can get bungled when the stakes are high and you're nervous cause it's your first time.

Lord knows I've got my own graveyard of shriveled OX pips, mangled beyond repair.

Take the pressure off yourself and do a few practice runs first.

I agree - Practice Makes Perfect...

However, rubbers are not readily available in India, and the ones that are, don't come cheap... 
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Someone posted this tip a while ago.

Take the new uncut LP sheet and staple it at all 4 corners to the cardboard that came with the packaging. You can now handle the LP rubber similar to the way you would glue inverted.

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Originally posted by qpskfec qpskfec wrote:

Someone posted this tip a while ago.
Take the new uncut LP sheet and staple it at all 4 corners to the cardboard that came with the packaging. You can now handle the LP rubber similar to the way you would glue inverted.
=============
Still, use water-based glue only.
Rubber cement will ruin it.


Edited by skip3119 - 03/16/2018 at 4:27pm
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Originally posted by skip3119 skip3119 wrote:

Originally posted by qpskfec qpskfec wrote:

Someone posted this tip a while ago.
Take the new uncut LP sheet and staple it at all 4 corners to the cardboard that came with the packaging. You can now handle the LP rubber similar to the way you would glue inverted.
=============
Still, use water-based glue only.
Rubber cement will ruin it.

I've only used rubber cement.  Just apply and let it rest for 10 minutes, never an issue.
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Originally posted by jt99sf jt99sf wrote:

Originally posted by skip3119 skip3119 wrote:

Originally posted by qpskfec qpskfec wrote:

Someone posted this tip a while ago.
Take the new uncut LP sheet and staple it at all 4 corners to the cardboard that came with the packaging. You can now handle the LP rubber similar to the way you would glue inverted.
=============
Still, use water-based glue only.
Rubber cement will ruin it.

I've only used rubber cement.  Just apply and let it rest for 10 minutes, never an issue.
======================
For inverted rubber with sponge, that's true.
This thread is about LP OX (long-pips without sponge.)

(I ruined my LP OX rubber using rubber cement.)
(For inverted rubber with sponge, using rubber cement works every time - never had a problem.)
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Originally posted by skip3119 skip3119 wrote:

Originally posted by jt99sf jt99sf wrote:

Originally posted by skip3119 skip3119 wrote:

Originally posted by qpskfec qpskfec wrote:

Someone posted this tip a while ago.
Take the new uncut LP sheet and staple it at all 4 corners to the cardboard that came with the packaging. You can now handle the LP rubber similar to the way you would glue inverted.
=============
Still, use water-based glue only.
Rubber cement will ruin it.

I've only used rubber cement.  Just apply and let it rest for 10 minutes, never an issue.
======================
For inverted rubber with sponge, that's true.
This thread is about LP OX (long-pips without sponge.)

(I ruined my LP OX rubber using rubber cement.)
(For inverted rubber with sponge, using rubber cement works every time - never had a problem.)

I'm talking about pips w/o sponge. 
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Use glue sheet, or for El Cheapo, use the clear plastic sheet backing of the tuned H3, or BW2 (or something similar), apply some WB glue on it, then use it like a glue sheet to hold the OX.  Works wonderfully.
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Originally posted by mhnh007 mhnh007 wrote:

Use glue sheet, or for El Cheapo, use the clear plastic sheet backing of the tuned H3, or BW2 (or something similar), apply some WB glue on it, then use it like a glue sheet to hold the OX.  Works wonderfully.


It's so simple using a glue sheet.  Never a mistake and you can reuse the glue sheets.
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This is how I do it... I've glued hundreds like this, works like a charm:
http://tabletennis-reviews.com/gluing-a-long-pimple-rubber-without-sponge-a-novel-new-way/
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I used to put a can like green beans or corn sharp side down on each corner to keep it under control. Unfortunately you picked a super hard pip for your first try. The base sheet can be like a balloon
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Originally posted by haggisv haggisv wrote:

This is how I do it... I've glued hundreds like this, works like a charm:
http://tabletennis-reviews.com/gluing-a-long-pimple-rubber-without-sponge-a-novel-new-way/



That is what I do.  It's so easy.
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Originally posted by haggisv haggisv wrote:

This is how I do it... I've glued hundreds like this, works like a charm:
http://tabletennis-reviews.com/gluing-a-long-pimple-rubber-without-sponge-a-novel-new-way/


Sounds too easy to be true.... anyway, I will certainly try this one ... link bookmarked....

Many Thanks!!
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Hi,I have had problems gluing Dawei ox lps in the past,the thin Base sheet is notorious for bubbling and creasing.I found a simple way to prevent these 2 problems,I applied 3 strips of 1 inch low tack paper masking tape across the pips side of the rubber to add a bit of stiffness to the sheet,1 across the centre, 1 at the top and one near to the info bar still gives enough flex to get the rubber on,when I did this the result was perfect!
I found it best to reduce the tack on the tape to prevent it pulling the pips when removing,this was done by sticking the tape to my arm 3 or 4 times before applying...good luck whatever method you choose

Edited by firetack - 03/17/2018 at 4:54am
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Originally posted by firetack firetack wrote:

Hi,I have had problems gluing Dawei ox lps in the past,the thin Base sheet is notorious for bubbling and creasing.I found a simple way to prevent these 2 problems,I applied 3 strips of 1 inch low tack paper masking tape across the pips side of the rubber to add a bit of stiffness to the sheet,1 across the centre, 1 at the top and one near to the info bar still gives enough flex to get the rubber on,when I did this the result was perfect!
I found it best to reduce the tack on the tape to prevent it pulling the pips when removing,this was done by sticking the tape to my arm 3 or 4 times before applying...good luck whatever method you choose

Kind of the same method as Haggsiv's, except that you create a bit of stiffness in the OX LP, using masking tape, whereas Haggisv does that using a Gluesheet.... 

hmm.. I do have some low-tack paper masking tape lying around... 
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Originally posted by mts388 mts388 wrote:

Originally posted by mhnh007 mhnh007 wrote:

Use glue sheet, or for El Cheapo, use the clear plastic sheet backing of the tuned H3, or BW2 (or something similar), apply some WB glue on it, then use it like a glue sheet to hold the OX.  Works wonderfully.


It's so simple using a glue sheet.  Never a mistake and you can reuse the glue sheets.

I had 2 blades ruined because of these sheets.
Also, it depends of the type of outply, some woods are very fragile.
Also, for some who decide to go for the sheets, I would recommend to seal first the concerned side of the blade with hardwax oil from clou. A thin layer is enough, it won't change the blade property and it will protect the blade. Much easier to take off the glue sheet without hurting the blade, especially when the sheet is torn when you change LP rubbers.

But...I prefer by far using glue
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As long as the blade faces are sealed properly, there are no problems removing rubber.
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Originally posted by LUCKYLOOP LUCKYLOOP wrote:


As long as the blade faces are sealed properly, there are no problems removing rubber.

I hear, that sealing/lacquering the blade tends to, noticeably change the way the blade plays, especially with OK LPs. Some people even mention that it reduces spin-continuation (Please note : I say spin-continuation, and not spin-reversal Wink.. ) ... To what extent is that true ?
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Originally posted by Veet Veet wrote:

Originally posted by LUCKYLOOP LUCKYLOOP wrote:


As long as the blade faces are sealed properly, there are no problems removing rubber.

I hear, that sealing/lacquering the blade tends to, noticeably change the way the blade plays, especially with OK LPs. Some people even mention that it reduces spin-continuation (Please note : I say spin-continuation, and not spin-reversal Wink.. ) ... To what extent is that true ?

Use hardwax oil from the brand Clou
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Originally posted by kakapo kakapo wrote:


Use hardwax oil from the brand Clou

Not Available in India
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Originally posted by kakapo kakapo wrote:

Originally posted by Veet Veet wrote:

Originally posted by LUCKYLOOP LUCKYLOOP wrote:


As long as the blade faces are sealed properly, there are no problems removing rubber.


I hear, that sealing/lacquering the blade tends to, noticeably change the way the blade plays, especially with OK LPs. Some people even mention that it reduces spin-continuation (Please note : I say spin-continuation, and not spin-reversal Wink.. ) ... To what extent is that true ?


Use hardwax oil from the brand Clou


I use very light layers, doesn't change the characteristics of my blades, XVT or others.
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