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Noobie Boosting Problems :) |
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Blake
Member Joined: 02/22/2015 Location: USA Status: Offline Points: 40 |
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Posted: 09/12/2019 at 11:23am |
Hello!
I've just gotten back into TT and thought I'd celebrate by replacing my 10yo Srivers on my primorac off -. I did some research and slapped som Rasanter 47 on one side and decided to try my hand at boosting a chinese rubber (H3N). Heres my problem, I got it all and tried to assemble it the best I could via directions I found online however I must've done something wrong because the rubber is peeling back from the blade due to the slight curve. Is this rubber now a lost cause? Or can I restart somehow? The blade is still sticky with glue and so is the rubber. (in case its necessary my process was: 1 layer Donic glue wait 15 min 1 layer Falco Booster wait 19 hours 1 layer FB wait 16 hours 1 layer glue on the blade and rubber wait 15 min Put some books on top after combining for 24 hours. It was my first time and am not sure where I screwed up (aside from trying by myself for the first time) |
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BTY Primorac
FH: Sriver 1.9 BH: Sriver 1.9 Taming a new beast... Vega Pro FH: Rasant Grip Max BH: Tenzone Ultra SF Max |
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Blake
Member Joined: 02/22/2015 Location: USA Status: Offline Points: 40 |
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I can clarify anything or add more info if needed!
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BTY Primorac
FH: Sriver 1.9 BH: Sriver 1.9 Taming a new beast... Vega Pro FH: Rasant Grip Max BH: Tenzone Ultra SF Max |
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ThePongProfessor
Forum Moderator Joined: 11/17/2014 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 1528 |
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Blake -
Your problem: the glue is not strong enough to hold down the boosted rubber. Which glue are you using? In any event: 1. Take off the rubber. 2. Add one layer of glue on the rubber. Let dry for ~15 min. 3. Repeat 3-5 times (number of layers depends on the glue - thinner glue require more layers. There is no magic number though). 4. Add layer of glue on blade. Let dry for ~15 min. 5. Assemble the paddle. Add pressure (e.g., books) if needed. |
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Blake
Member Joined: 02/22/2015 Location: USA Status: Offline Points: 40 |
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Ill try what you've suggested and report back!
The glue is Donic Clean glue :)
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BTY Primorac
FH: Sriver 1.9 BH: Sriver 1.9 Taming a new beast... Vega Pro FH: Rasant Grip Max BH: Tenzone Ultra SF Max |
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jpenmaster
Platinum Member Joined: 12/24/2008 Location: Chicago Status: Offline Points: 2176 |
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You need more glue and take off that protective factory film before boosting .
Edited by jpenmaster - 09/12/2019 at 3:47pm |
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OSP Expert II w DNA Dragon Grip
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taczkid
Super Member Joined: 05/19/2016 Location: ILLINOIS Status: Offline Points: 487 |
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More glue, or use Butterfly Free Chack 2 (its fairly strong). Also instead of using books, get something like yasaka clicky press. Also when cutting rubber, cut a bit longer from the blade, then put back into the press/books and after a day or so trim as desired...
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darucla
Super Member Joined: 07/30/2017 Location: England Status: Offline Points: 115 |
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The protective layer will not stretch. It must be removed before boosting and sticking the rubber.
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chop4ever
Silver Member Joined: 08/10/2012 Location: Australia Status: Offline Points: 812 |
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remove the sealant layer
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There is no real "pro", "prov" or "NT" H3 in the market.
Falco is not a booster |
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Jackcerry
Super Member Joined: 07/06/2018 Location: Italy Status: Offline Points: 177 |
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2 layers of glue on the rubber and it will be ok trust me
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tom
Premier Member Joined: 11/18/2013 Location: canada Status: Offline Points: 3016 |
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yogi_bear
Forum Moderator Joined: 11/25/2004 Location: Philippines Status: Offline Points: 7220 |
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For Jap n euro rubbers i usually put only 2 layers. If 3 or more, it would take me 5 days toral before gluing it.
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kindof99
Premier Member Joined: 02/07/2014 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 4230 |
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Do you really need to wait one day to glue the rubber after applying booster?
I used falco long to boost an EL-S (no glue on the sponge), and after four hours, it looked like the rubber had been boosted sufficiently.
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vik2000
Super Member Joined: 06/29/2018 Location: Behind you Status: Offline Points: 264 |
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I suppose it's safer to wait til sponge expands first? Although there's a coach locally who says you can glue as soon as booster is dry (he also used FTL). Also, to OP, you need to remove the protective sheet from rubber before boosting. I've used donic glue before and have never had any issue gluing the boosted rubbers.
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kindof99
Premier Member Joined: 02/07/2014 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 4230 |
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I don't understand the purpose of applying a layer of water base glue before applying boosting oil. Isn't it just slowing down the boosting process without much obvious benefit?
Edited by kindof99 - 09/14/2019 at 12:29am |
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DreiZ
Platinum Member Joined: 06/01/2009 Location: New York, US Status: Offline Points: 2577 |
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prevents overboosting with strong boosters sometimes low qc rubbers when overboosted will separate quickly at the topsheet and sponge i usually dont remove the glue layer on H3Neo and apply 1 thick layer of FTL and let the dome come down on its own, usually takes 4-5 days, then 1 layer of glue again on the glue layer and 1 on the blade.
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Ovtcharov Innerforce ALC 85g FH/BH: Glayzer 09C 2.1mm Chopper: Stratus Power Defense 85g FH: Hybrid K3 max BH: Grass D.TecS 0.9mm USATT: 1725 |
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chop4ever
Silver Member Joined: 08/10/2012 Location: Australia Status: Offline Points: 812 |
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Falco weakenings the glue layer hence it couldn't stick well the the blade. Use FineZip or change to thin booster.
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There is no real "pro", "prov" or "NT" H3 in the market.
Falco is not a booster |
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igorponger
Premier Member Joined: 07/29/2006 Location: Everywhere Status: Offline Points: 3252 |
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Huh ... MAGIC POTION works wonders. |
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*_strataras_*
Gold Member Joined: 04/19/2010 Location: Greece Status: Offline Points: 1156 |
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One problem could be If your blade was sealed with some kind of laquer to protect it. If yes, maybe you have to sand the blade with light sandpaper.
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carbon136
Super Member Joined: 12/18/2011 Location: Slovakia Status: Offline Points: 120 |
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There's a pretty good tutorial on Youtube about boosting rubbers with Falco, which I use too. http://youtu.be/hrc8lixJ4r8
You should wait until the rubber is almost flat and then glue it to the blade. Don't forget to put the glue on the rubber and blade as well. If you did all this, then your glue may not be strong enough. I use glues from big brands like Donic or Andro. I never had a boosted rubber which was peeling off. From my experience the layer of glue before applying booster onto the sponge helps to soften the sponge after boosting (also maybe to prevent the booster from reaching the topsheet and causing damage as someone above said) and causes better boosting effect overall (increase of speed). When I didn't put the glue layer first, the rubber hasn't softened and the speed has increased just a little.
Edited by carbon136 - 09/20/2019 at 7:32am |
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fmarek
Silver Member Joined: 09/08/2018 Location: Sydney Status: Offline Points: 525 |
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Are you referring to film on the rubber or on the sponge?
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729 Green Goblin 5, FH: 729 Battle II National H39, BH: Palio HK1997 Gold.
DHS Long 5, FH: 729 Battle II Gold H40, BH: Nittaku C1 |
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fmarek
Silver Member Joined: 09/08/2018 Location: Sydney Status: Offline Points: 525 |
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Same here, why this step is needed?
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729 Green Goblin 5, FH: 729 Battle II National H39, BH: Palio HK1997 Gold.
DHS Long 5, FH: 729 Battle II Gold H40, BH: Nittaku C1 |
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darucla
Super Member Joined: 07/30/2017 Location: England Status: Offline Points: 115 |
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Are you referring to film on the rubber or on the sponge? [/QUOTEThe thin transparent film on the rubber. Obviously, the white film on the Neo sponge has to be removed before use.
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fmarek
Silver Member Joined: 09/08/2018 Location: Sydney Status: Offline Points: 525 |
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Given that arc forms with rubber inside and sponge outside I dont see why film would want to stretch during that process. Leaving it on the rubber has no negative effect on boosting, but instead rubber sheet dries out which is not good. On some products film is rather thick and can be re-used. Yeah that one probably can go.
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729 Green Goblin 5, FH: 729 Battle II National H39, BH: Palio HK1997 Gold.
DHS Long 5, FH: 729 Battle II Gold H40, BH: Nittaku C1 |
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icontek
Premier Member This is FPS Doug Joined: 10/31/2006 Location: Maine, US Status: Offline Points: 5222 |
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It's been my experience that the benefit is "time release" for the booster. Falco Long lasts longer if you are boosting a glue layer (which is time releasing the booster into the sponge). The downside is that it takes a LOT longer to setup. If I were going to boost a sheet of H3 Neo, i would remove the topsheet protector, and I would apply 3 thin layers over a few days to the "protective" (factory boosting) layer. I would wait about 72 hours to see if I saw significant factory doming. If so, I would let the rubber topsheet stretch a bit before trying to glue it to the blade. This method distributes the new tension more evenly and sacrifices some power for more control. If you are boosting into a thicker glue layer, proper setup time might take a week, but doing it this way you can get multiple months of more consistent performance without having to reboost.
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