Equipment - Review:"NEW better" 729 F1

Blade: 729 F-1 <o:p></o:p>

Composition: Koto-Limba-3k carbon-Kiri(Paulownia)-3k
Carbon-Limba-Koto

Handle- FL

Thickness: 5.9mm

Speed rating: OFF++/OFF+

Actual rating: OFF/ higher OFF-

Weight: 83 gm

Price: $19 (eacheng)

Played with rubbers:

FH: Acuda S1 / H3NEO (PO tuned), BH: Palio Thor’s

Reference blades for comparison: TBS, TB ALC, MJ, Amultart, YinHe V1, Wavestone, Photino, etc.

Structure: It has a decent finish, not excessive overkill
like butterfly photino handle, probably even a little lower than recent Yinhe
blade finish. I think 729 intentionally keeps the neck a little wide, the logic
being it can be shaved to make it narrow but not otherwise. I’m neutral about
that. The top koto layer has a very unique grain structure, little rough… and
has small rounded grains. It is very hard. When I compared tried digging my
nail in it, unlike hinoki, unlike even limba, it didn’t yield

These days while
choosing blade I pay much more attention to the structure than whether it is
carbon zylon nylon arylate aramid or plutonium, unlike I did 4 years back. I pay more importance to the wood types, total
thickness, and effective thickness (which is distance between the composite
layers). And with these parameters I can assume blade properties much better
than knowing composite structure.

How the structure
relates to properties for 729 F-1. <o:p></o:p>

Core wood and
thickness:<o:p></o:p>

My understanding on how core affects the properties:

Thin Ayous core = very flexy, very loopy

Thin kiri core = some flex, power loops and hits

Thick balsa core = no flex, so the blade doesn’t
recoil by flexing, but just by surface deformation. With relatively instantaneous
power delivery (still less than thick kiri or ayous core), and hence I find thick balsa core blade unsuitable for proper
looping with full arm swing.

Thin balsa core = like BBC matts dream or viscaria, also limited
flex … but still can be used for looping and hitting.

Thick Ayous or Kiri Core: Hitter's/Driver's blade with instantaneous power like say Yinhe T-8 or Amultart.

It’s a thin blade. And it has 2 wood layers on top of
carbon, so “effective thickness” is even lower. This makes it a predominantly
looping blade. It has some flex, not as flexy as a 6mm wooden blade, but some
flex. Also it has a kiri core, which in my opinion has higher tensile strength
than ayous. So its not necessarily a slow looping blade but a power looping
blade.

Surface wood and
thickness:<o:p></o:p>

Koto is a hardwood. Which actually not only gives the hard
instantaneous ball feel but also increases speed of the blade significantly. Also
2 layers of wood above carbon, gives it some woody feel of innerforce series or
ma lin carbon etc.

Now why 2 layers instead of one thick layer? I asked this
question myself, and reasoned as, probably the very hard top layers right above
the extremely hard carbon layer would deteriorate the impact resistance due to
very low bounciness of such brittle combo. Like bare blade is not fast when you
hit the ball with it. There will be lot of energy dissipation at this point and
hence will slow down the blade instead of making it faster. They have to probably
buffer the hard koto wood with a layer of impact resistant limba below it, and then the 2
carbon layers sandwiching the kiri will provide the necessary rigidity.

Maybe I’m making up stories, maybe I’m miserably trying
to apply my material science background. <span style="font-family:Wingdings; mso-ascii-font-family:Calibri;mso-ascii-theme-font:minor-latin;mso-hansi-font-family: Calibri;mso-hansi-theme-font:minor-latin;mso-char-:symbol;mso-symbol-font-family: Wingdings"> LOL

3k Carbon<o:p></o:p>

The least important factor for me is the nature of composite…
if it was 4k carbon or 10k carbon I wouldn’t have cared much. But I hear 3k is
the fibre count (3000 fibre) of the carbon mesh or fleece or weave or whatever.

In earlier days, I think carbon blade used to use fleece,
making them very pingy. Now using weaves, mesh and other stuff they are not
pingy… so old logic of arylate stops the ping doesn’t work anymore. But yes
arylate or aramid dampens the vibration to some extent, making them more stable
in pushes, at the cost of some ‘pop’ or rebound spring. Do I like it or dislike it.
Of course I like that spring while looping or hitting or driving,blocking, it
gives much better hand feel. But of course I would anyday prefer more dampening
when I am pushing or serving, or placing a drop shot on the net.

Feel <o:p></o:p>

So 729 F-1 is expectedly has a very good hand feel, decent
oomph on aggression, and not as muted as say Timo Boll ALC in pushes and
drop shots. With 729 F-1 I feel I can’t miss a loop or drive, with ALC I feel I
can’t miss a push (also great in loop and loopdrive), with my YinHe V-1, or YinHe T-8, or Wavestone, I feel I can
never miss a hit. (this is over generalization because rubbers also affect it).

The ball feel is quite accurate... which is same as TBS. Just to compare i consider the ball feel of photino to be very muffled and inadequate. As if photino you can aproximately detect when the ball hit the blade. but with 729 f-1 you can feel the ball exactly from the point it hit the blade through the entire hold time and when it is released.

Spring and power
delivery<o:p></o:p>

My YinHe V-1 is faster than this, delivering power more
instantaneously, being a 7mm blade. So is amultart, photino, so is Innerforce
ZLC(in spite of that being a thin blade). But when it comes to speed with
spring, 729 F-1 is predictably better than all the above mentioned blades hands down.

It is in the category of TB ALC. However it is not as late in delivering the power as say Mizutani Jun blade, where I have
to wait forever to allow for the blade to catch up with my motion. Mizutani Jun delivers very
nice delayed power which really helps in away from the table power loops,
but did you ever see mizutani play a fast cracking opening loop like Zhang Jike from close
to table?

So, I believe depending on where you are positioned,
close-mid-far, you may want to pick a blade that’s instantaneous OR little
delayed OR much delayed in its rebound. 729 f-1 comfortably remains in mid range with near-nascent power delivery… or spring.

Speed

Speed (after the spring) surprised me for a 5.8mm blade. I used
to be like the user ‘speedy’ ... very very afraid of lack of speed. But 729 F-1
delivers enough speed to win some points in opening loops or in looping rallies,
paired with suitable rubbers. Paired with Palio Thor's, it is a awesome looping and
driving combo. Paired with H3 Neo it is speedy, but more than that … it generates
awesome spin in loops may be a tad higher than thor's.

When it comes to hitting, I wouldn’t say it’s a delight to
hit because I have always played with 7mm composite blades.. and they deliver
more instantaneous power. But I can say I dislike TBS particularly because it
doesn’t hit so well. Timo Boll ALC is better, 729 F-1 is same as Timo Boll ALC
when hitting.

Spin:

Spin was again notably higher than my YinHe V-1, using H1 FH or even
Palio Thor’s BH. H3 Neo was tenergy like spinny on FH, and I won so many
points because this spin is delivered sooner than the tenergy (yes I know that’s
what butterfly calls as micro second delay) but to Chinese top players, its
probably even a micro second opportunity to deliver the ball before the
opponent is ready.

And guys…mark my words if any of you end up trying this
blade you will come back and tell me my observation on spin is correct.

With Acuda S1 however, ...it was not spinnier than 'acuda S1 on YinHe
V1'. I can reason it as Acuda S1 sponge saturates little sooner than H3 Neo.. And
hence even soft kiso hinoki top plys of YinHe V1 were able to extract the juice
from Acuda S1…. But not for H3 Neo… which had some more juice to be milked with
the hard koto outer ply of 729 F-1.

Blocks:<o:p></o:p>

Whether in passive block or in punch block, I found 729-F-1
adequate with this great balance between stiffness and flex. In punch block it’s
actually better than adequate… I would say it’s a strength.

Pushes:

Being a little springy, and particularly when using Acuda S1
which is also kinda springy, I had less margin for error than I have with my
YinHe V1. V-1’s stiffness and soft hinoki layer makes it a very effective
pushing tool and dropshot weapon. F-1 is decent, imo same as TBS,
but little inferior to ALC. pushing with a bouncy rubber like acuda s1 or tenergy wasn't easy with F-1, but with thor's it was very nice.

F-1 tempts you to open loops faster, because that is so accurate.

Opening loops<o:p></o:p>

It’s very good. I haven’t really played with pure wood thin
blade which should make it even easier…. But this delivers the goods with
enough power…. Even for low over the table backspin serves. (that is extreme
case… and also not so with Acuda S1, but with h3 Neo, yes)

Counter Loops <o:p></o:p>

This is also a strength of this blade. It is particularly
mentionable in this faculty.

It has enough power even if you move farther away from table,
and you wont feel you are lacking the prowess to go for aggressive shots from
there.

Drives: <o:p></o:p>

Any 7mm composite blade will drive better … I mean with
better results, not drive easier. 729 F-1 will drive better than TBS, MJ,... inferior to Amultart, TB ZLC, YinHe V-1. But it will give you more percentage
of drives on table. This is the decision factor for me to choose this blade as
my primary combo, when I already own a TB ALC and TBS. TB ALC is close, but 729-F-1 may have a edge with
koto outer ply than limba (I guess) in TB ALC.

Serves<o:p></o:p>

You need more caution with long serves because the spring
can disrupt your estimates and go longer. I missed a few serves initially, but
it is adjustable. I am almost
there.

Hits<o:p></o:p>

Good hitting, but not the best hitting blade. All 7mm blades
hit better with more power and more accuracy.

These days, I'm trying to mimic
the Chinese hitting technique, which is unleash 80% power … instead of going
all out 100% and missing. And keep going.... this way keep opponent under constant pressure till he misses a lob.
So it is not making much difference to me
from YinHe V1, as far as point winning percentage.

Surface Durability on
re-gluing<o:p></o:p>

Those who played 729 V-6, know how it splinters while removing rubbers. F-1 surface looks like it may also… except that its
different wood from V-6, and hence holds reasonably strong. Still you may find a
small number of very thin fibres attached to the glue, when you remove rubber. So I lightly sanded the top
and it did help next time. I didn’t use any sealing coat on this $19 paddle.

Conclusion:

For those who are 2 wing loopers, and more strongly, power
loopers (as compared to pure control loopers), will love 729 F-1 blade more than the mega hyped
TBS, Viscaria, or TB ALC. It has excellent ball feel, just adequate flex, very
sweetly balancing the looping qualities and driving qualities. After adjusting
to pushing and serves, I really appreciating how well I can recover out of
position balls, and can make better use of the extremities of the table with
sharper loop angle. At $19, 729 F-1 has surpassed my expectation, and surprised
me like no other blades did.

The speed seem to be OFF+ or even OF++ if we compare the blade to HK, it is as fast as HK if not faster.

The most surprising thing about F-1 is the fantastic feel of wood - which you will never find in, say, the T-series of Yinhe. This feel resolves in a very tight, not hollow sound when you smash the ball. And the sound is amazingly similar to H-WL+h2/h3 pro speed glued. I used only one layer of Extra Power w/b glue on M2 to produce this effect. Will try with 5 layers now.

hang on... i am myself confused now... let me recheck..

i'm sure i read candle-nut in some site. but checked with 729 website and it is kiri (paulownia).

Imago: good to get your feedback. looking forward for more. it has turned out to be my staple blade at this time. i played tourney with this blade.. and did much better my previous performances. i will post a full review of the blade soon.

I'm looking senselessly sceptical here, I know. But the truth can't wait to be delivered :)

tennisfreak: i could agree with your comment if only my game had not improved over last 5 years. As for equipments it is always personal journey for everyone. I woudn't look at LKT torrent same way as i looked at it 4 years back. While i test out many equipments, i write reviews only when i come across something worthwhile. Last time i wrote a blade review, was exactly one year back when i found Innerforce ZLC, and figured it plays differently and worth mentioning. So it's definitely a journey, with a direction, not a discount shopping spree.

Even I started learning ping pong a little two years ago at the age of 33, I still find this blade amazing for its price. I changed from BTY ZLF and this blade worth every "extra" pennies Big smile

Even I started learning ping pong a little two years ago at the age of 33, I still find this blade amazing for its price. I changed from BTY ZLF and this blade worth every "extra" pennies Big smile

I won't stop you, if you happen to not like it, then give it to me so I will have a spare LOL

The one I have is 82g, and I somehow like the head to be a little heavy.

kolev: i actually gambled with 2 blades. F-1 and F-5. I was determined to try some thinner blades than my usual ones, for better looping at cost of some drives and hits. I also preferred the 2 layer wood on carbon design of innerforce. And if i tried some galaxy blades it would have been a total gamble, because they don't disclose composition of the blades. I think the reason could be that YinHe use cheaper woods like juniper and american hinoki (cypress) a lot, instead of more expensive woods like koto or paulownia.

I am very appreciative of 729 to clearly mention the wood layers on their website. So after observing the designs... i selected 2 thicknesses, 5.9 (F-1) and 6.2(F-5). I played with F-5 once but haven't yet done justice to adapt to it, because after playing with F-1, it turned out to be surpass my expectation, particularly in balancing the looping (flex) and hitting (lack of flex) properties.

I actually bought the blade for $16... but right after i received it and played with it...i checked and they have increased the price to $19. LOL

But guess what, i also ended up purchasing a TB ALC in parallel, because a tourney was too close. And now i will prolly end up selling that blade, so i can buy 6 more F-1 s Big smile

With so many arms, Shiva could find a perfect use for your 6 blades.

I was interested in that blade but its way too much cheddar man...

how would this blade pair up with DHS rubber specifically h2 neo?

I'd better try not. H2 Neo cut is 50 g.

Surprisingly, almost no difference between red Mercury 2 @ 37 and red H2 Neo. Except that H2 is harder (being new), an idea stronger and with little more spin. Very pleasant feel though.

with that said Imago buy this blade Wink

should i try getting the 729 L-3 too while Im at it?

Try Thor first. I remember the last time I hit Sun from borrowing your blade, it was not that good IMO.

my suggestion is paste your usual rubber on 729 F-1 if you want a proper idea about the blade.

Thor's is a difficult to adjust rubber, and sun is under performer imo. So they will unnecessarily convolute your opinion about the blade... and you will associate some of their properties with that of the blade.

my suggestion is paste your usual rubber on 729 F-1 if you want a proper idea about the blade.

thor's is little too much 'FUN' LOL

.. when you first play with it.

thor's is little too much 'FUN' LOL

.. when you first play with it.

I was comparing 729 F-1 with TB ALC or Innerforce ALC. but today i actually played with the closed 729 F-1 clone... exact same speed and feeling.

Guess what? It turns out to be Innerforce T5000. That's the real 729 F-1 clone.

I took that blade from club player... and it had the same exact feeling... but the IF T5000 was with better finish and handle shape. Embarrassed

Butterfly rates that blade 10 in speed... but i guess that's wrong. its not that crazy fast ... definitely slower than IF ZLC... and a very pliable blade.... just for butterfly fans.... because its kinda 9 times more expensive than 729 F-1

I have played with three of them and find F-1 as fast if not faster than IF ZLC. It says OFF++ on the F-1 handle. This is not arbitrary rating.

seguso... since i played with both the blades yuo mentioned for significant time, i think yes it will be an improvement if you are looper... both of those blades are 7mm+ composite blades. no professional player plays 7mm+ composite blades.

however.. when you try F-1 blade.. due to the change in nature of power delivery, your shots will be anemic for first 2 days.. after which you will adjust to the timing and your loops will be as powerful as those 2. Hitting will not be as powerful.. but imo, plenty.

V-6 definitely has more top end speed than F-1, but less spring than F-1... and while looping away from table that spring of F-1 is very handy in move the ball farther.

Whoever tried this combo admitted that it is too fast for us, regular denizens of TT entertainment clubs.

Probably this particular F-1 I've got has some individual peculiarities, like thicker koto plies or I don't know what...

Still, the question remains as to why 729 would mark it as OFF++ while V-6 is clearly rated as OFF+. Look at your handle, please.

I rest my case: You have to be an established 2000+ player to be consistently successful with F-1 paired with the modern 3rd generation Tensor, Sensor, Exonsor, Sponsor, etc. "inner explosion cum divel" rubbers.

H-WL is between OFF- and OFF (different batches differ somewhat in weight and speed, but in general it is a moderately fast blade, very easy to control and play with.

To give you a better frame of reference:

Stiga OC CR for your reference is an ALL + blade (regardless of manufacturers claims)

Stiga Allround Classic is ALL

Korbel is also classic OFF to OFF- blade

Primo Carbon is OFF+

Hope that clears the picture :-)

So Imago, is the F-1 is in the ballpark of Primorac Carbon?

There are no fast rubbers and fast blades, there are only Power Combos - and the right combination is a matter of luck.

Are you Sonntagskind?

May I know what blade you are talking about? The thread is about the 729 F1 blade.

just one question: what the heck is 7? we are talking about 729 F1. where did "7" come from? are you a troll?

or are you one of the sympathizers who get upset by comparing any blade to butterfly? Smile

any way my 729 f-1 decided not to splinter... yes few hair like fibers did loosen up but not splintering ... as it happens with 729 V-6.

i don;t know what is meant by blade properties deteriorate over time (7 days)... usually esn rubbers do that... unless someone is tuning blades too.

yeah i agree finishing is not like butterfly... playability on contrary is superior to many butterfly blades depending on style and level you play.

36-37 M2 is good for backhand. If you don't have H2Neo 39 use Moon >38. Make sure that the whole combo stays under 180 gr.

That's why I suggested H2Neo for FH - it is far more controllable and with superior spin.

Bewulf... i think any of these rubbers will work at their best with F-1. i played with multiple firm sponged rubbers and all of them worked well as the blade has hard top and some flex.

but more important is your friend's liking ... because while liking for H3 is universal, thors has a very selective and dedicated patrons. :) i like thors on the BH.

And on FH after playing tons of rubber... the one i am liking most is 999T (next time i will get the $15 national version) with PO tuning. I can definitely say it feels better than tuned or untuned H3 NEO.

seguso ... i played with gto and returned it. didn't like the hollow feeling... and also the quality ... my blade has 2 wood layers on one side... and 1 on other side. i did put up the pictures in a post here.

seguso i would rather you not use moon on BH. didn't work very well for me. too slow.

also when you move from 7.2mm blade like wavestone to 5.7mm blade like f-1; it is slow... but it will feel ridiculously slow initially. because your stroke mechanics is different... tuned for low dwell time.

it happened with me when i switched from V-1.

but then after a weeks play i could generate almost as much speed in loops and drives, but blocks stayed calm than v-1.

lastly i think the splintering you mentioned is the thin fibre like material that actually hurts you palm when you brush on the blade. i used a fine sand paper to even it out for the first 2-3 times when i took rubbers off. now it has stabilized.

i didn't use any sealant.