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Classic Rubbers vs. Modern Rubbers

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Topic: Classic Rubbers vs. Modern Rubbers
Posted By: assiduous
Subject: Classic Rubbers vs. Modern Rubbers
Date Posted: 10/13/2011 at 11:24pm
Well, as long as anyone can post an opinion : )

Do NOT buy Mark V. That is a speed-glue era rubber, that for some reason still costs over 30 USD$. If you don't glue it is a dull rubber all around. I mean it really has nothing, no speed, no spin. It has control, yeah, but without any teeth it is useless. 

ALmost any new rubber in that price range is superior to Mark V in everything, everything, and I don't understand why people here are in such denial about it.

Go here: www.ttnpp.com

Just close your eyes and buy randomly any rubber from Donic, Andro or Xiom, that is on that website, and you will do much better than Mark V. And if anyone tells you that you are not good enough to play with a nice rubber tell them to go #$#% off. Adjusting your strokes to that dead Mark V will serve you bad in the future, for you will have to relearn your strokes when you eventually but new generation rubber.


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puppy412 : Sorry man, I don't mean to sound disrespectful, but I know that more training will make me better, I don't need to come here to figure that out



Replies:
Posted By: doraemon
Date Posted: 10/13/2011 at 11:41pm
Hmmm, I don't know about you.  But with classic rubbers such Mark V, Sriver EL, Mendo, etc.  I can put plenty of spin without any problems.

As a matter of fact, I have not played for almost a year now (actively) and few days ago, I had the opportunity to play a guy with carbon blade + Acuda S1 and guess what, with All+ blade and classic rubbers, I can outspeed and outspin him.

Mark V, Sriver, and Mendo are classic rubbers which are good for beginner to intermediate players.  So your primorac Off- with those rubbers are OK.
 


Posted By: frogger
Date Posted: 10/13/2011 at 11:58pm
Originally posted by assiduous assiduous wrote:

Well, as long as anyone can post an opinion : )

Do NOT buy Mark V. That is a speed-glue era rubber, that for some reason still costs over 30 USD$. If you don't glue it is a dull rubber all around. I mean it really has nothing, no speed, no spin. It has control, yeah, but without any teeth it is useless. 

ALmost any new rubber in that price range is superior to Mark V in everything, everything, and I don't understand why people here are in such denial about it.

Go here: www.ttnpp.com

Just close your eyes and buy randomly any rubber from Donic, Andro or Xiom, that is on that website, and you will do much better than Mark V. And if anyone tells you that you are not good enough to play with a nice rubber tell them to go #$#% off. Adjusting your strokes to that dead Mark V will serve you bad in the future, for you will have to relearn your strokes when you eventually but new generation rubber.
 
 
 Thank you for your opinion...but you are very wrong it's rather humorus. LOL


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Wood Paddle
Red side
Black side.




Posted By: icontek
Date Posted: 10/16/2011 at 11:35am
Assidious. You misunderstand. Classic rubbers need glue for HIGH LEVEL PLAY.

But being an american, even euro club players around US1900 seem like high level play ;)

I agree that some of the tensors are much easier to loop with, but if you can't chop with classics, that's more technique stuff.

where I think you are confused is that the difference of opinion stems from players of varying strengths.from 1100 "power loopers" to classically coached city league players from europe.

What's your rating or approximate level?


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http://bit.ly/vLMhuB" rel="nofollow - - RC1042 . OSP Virtuoso AC: PK50 + R42


Posted By: ejmaster
Date Posted: 10/16/2011 at 11:36am
Originally posted by assiduous assiduous wrote:

At least someone else agrees that those overrated Sriver and Mark V are dead without speed glue. You know, it hurts me a little when someone comes here for advice and you people recommend this obviously below par old rubber, that on top of everything costs a ton. I would bet a dime that not one of the people that recommend them actually play with them. 
 
I don't agree that it's easier to learn with dead rubber AT ALL. Try backhand loop of a chopped ball. New rubber can make a world of difference. I own a near new Sriver FX and you need to swing-dislocate-your-shoulder to loop a good chop. All of the 33$ rubbers on ttnpp from Donic, Andro, Xiom do this significantly easier, and DO encourage you to try this shot more often.


 
this time i do not agree assiduous. imo what it is overrated is all those new rubbers and new blades.
i know a lot of players still playing with sriver (without glue) that can crush most of people playing with new stuff. one of them plays with sriver fx and he loops with a hell of spin.
 
the same with blades. most people would play lot better with an all wood blade in the off- range.
 
lot of people always plays with the same partners. once one knows your partners game one can play with any rubber or blade. but go to play with different players and maybe you see that the modern blade or rubber is not so good. and then the sriver was more safe and the off- all wood scored better.
 
there is no need sometimes about so much speed or spin. there is always need about control.
 


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EJ Club.

MM T05(fh)/Srvfx(bh); InfVps,LSW,Viscaria,RwV,TBAlc,PG7,yextsc,yeo. EJmaster wood.


Posted By: frogger
Date Posted: 10/16/2011 at 12:24pm
Originally posted by assiduous assiduous wrote:

At least someone else agrees that those overrated Sriver and Mark V are dead without speed glue. You know, it hurts me a little when someone comes here for advice and you people recommend this obviously below par old rubber, that on top of everything costs a ton. I would bet a dime that not one of the people that recommend them actually play with them. 
 
I don't agree that it's easier to learn with dead rubber AT ALL. Try backhand loop of a chopped ball. New rubber can make a world of difference. I own a near new Sriver FX and you need to swing-dislocate-your-shoulder to loop a good chop. All of the 33$ rubbers on ttnpp from Donic, Andro, Xiom do this significantly easier, and DO encourage you to try this shot more often.


 
                      "Dead", "Under Par"...Hmmm. Like I said before it's what's best that works for each player, there is no set rule for equipment. Primorac pairs with pretty much everything and it doesn't matter at all using any brand or type.


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Wood Paddle
Red side
Black side.




Posted By: bluebucket
Date Posted: 10/16/2011 at 12:30pm
Assiduous, while I appreciate that you love springy rubbers you only being able to play with them shows that you have never learnt to hit the ball without the helping hand they give. Imho that's a sign of major stroke flaw, I also have the opinion that long term people that have learnt to play without that much help from the rubber ultimately will be much stronger players. 

That's why all more experienced players go out of our way to suggest you learn good fundamentals on classic rubbers. It's not some mad crazy conspiracy against modern rubber, it's trying (sometimes in vain) to guide new players on the best path to go about becoming the best player they can be as quickly as possible. You can loop any chopped ball with Sriver fx as easy as you want from both sides IF you've learnt how to loop properly in the first place on classic rubber. I'll assure you Ma Long can hit a backhand within 10% of the speed he can with his tuned T64 with untuned Sriver fx. That's all hand speed, very little to do with maximum speed comes from the rubber or blade when you are hitting the balls correctly, what comes from the extra bounce of fast blades and rubbers is a faster passive game and 20 fold less control, still it's an important part of high level play and the pros are good enough to afford the lesser control for a faster passive return of the ball, the 95% of players can't Wink and for the vaaaaaaast majority the extra control far outweighs any speed advantage in passive play Sleepy


Posted By: dingyibvs
Date Posted: 10/16/2011 at 5:07pm
If you want a slow rubber then why not just spend $8 and get a LKT Pro XP instead?  I don't understand the need to spend $30 bucks on something like the Sriver.  Heck, even the Flextra costs like $20, that's just robbery.

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Blade: Hurricane Long 5 (968) FL
FH: D09C max
BH: D09C max


Posted By: ttennis1
Date Posted: 10/16/2011 at 10:14pm
Originally posted by dingyibvs dingyibvs wrote:

If you want a slow rubber then why not just spend $8 and get a LKT Pro XP instead?  I don't understand the need to spend $30 bucks on something like the Sriver.  Heck, even the Flextra costs like $20, that's just robbery.


People usually underestimate the potential of Flextra, it is one of the best rubbers for a beginner to learn this sport. It has decent speed for a beginner, Excellent control & its spin is really something to be taken seriously. The spin on this rubber can really surprise the opponent.

Although got the Flextra by removing it off a pre-made paddle!


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Butterfly Primorac (OFF-)
FH:Yasaka Mark-V (max)
BH:Butterfly Flextra (1.5)


Posted By: beeray1
Date Posted: 10/16/2011 at 10:32pm
Originally posted by dingyibvs dingyibvs wrote:

If you want a slow rubber then why not just spend $8 and get a LKT Pro XP instead?  I don't understand the need to spend $30 bucks on something like the Sriver.  Heck, even the Flextra costs like $20, that's just robbery.
 
I'm an advocate for rubbers that are cheaper than sriver/mark V if you can get similar benefit out of them. They are overpriced tremendously. Especially Sriver. I think the safest bet is Mendo instead of sriver because it's very similar but much cheaper.


Posted By: dingyibvs
Date Posted: 10/16/2011 at 10:33pm
Originally posted by ttennis1 ttennis1 wrote:

Originally posted by dingyibvs dingyibvs wrote:

If you want a slow rubber then why not just spend $8 and get a LKT Pro XP instead?  I don't understand the need to spend $30 bucks on something like the Sriver.  Heck, even the Flextra costs like $20, that's just robbery.


People usually underestimate the potential of Flextra, it is one of the best rubbers for a beginner to learn this sport. It has decent speed for a beginner, Excellent control & its spin is really something to be taken seriously. The spin on this rubber can really surprise the opponent.

Although got the Flextra by removing it off a pre-made paddle!


I'm not underestimating it at all, I'm just saying that it's a sub $10 rubber being sold for more than twice the price.  I mean, you can get a pre-made DHS paddle with two PF4's for like 15 bucks, I'd recommend that for anyone who's ready to move on from "ping pong" to table tennis. Similarly, in the post glue ban era, I find it ridiculous that the Sriver is being recommended by anyone to anyone.


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Blade: Hurricane Long 5 (968) FL
FH: D09C max
BH: D09C max


Posted By: assiduous
Date Posted: 10/16/2011 at 11:34pm
Originally posted by dingyibvs dingyibvs wrote:

  I find it ridiculous that the Sriver is being recommended by anyone to anyone.

Amen!

I mean, if Sriver had gone down to 15 bucks today, fine, go sweat yourself with it. It's like jogging with dumbels - some people enjoy it.

But when you have all these nice rubbers in the same price range and turn them all down for a Sriver? 

Also, my BH loop is perfect, thank you very much. Perhaps exactly due to the fact that I never played a rubber that will hold me back.


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puppy412 : Sorry man, I don't mean to sound disrespectful, but I know that more training will make me better, I don't need to come here to figure that out


Posted By: icontek
Date Posted: 10/17/2011 at 4:32pm
Perfect at what level of play?



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http://bit.ly/vLMhuB" rel="nofollow - - RC1042 . OSP Virtuoso AC: PK50 + R42


Posted By: artakwol
Date Posted: 10/17/2011 at 4:56pm
Originally posted by assiduous assiduous wrote:


Originally posted by dingyibvs dingyibvs wrote:

  I find it ridiculous that the Sriver is being recommended by anyone to anyone.

Amen!
I mean, if Sriver had gone down to 15 bucks today, fine, go sweat yourself with it. It's like jogging with dumbels - some people enjoy it.
But when you have all these nice rubbers in the same price range and turn them all down for a Sriver? 
Also, my BH loop is perfect, thank you very much. Perhaps exactly due to the fact that I never played a rubber that will hold me back.


I bought my sriver EL and FX for $15 per rubber. I'm using it on Primorac Carbon and can tell you, that they create really a crazy spin during the play (also for serve).

Today was playing with a guy with Primorac Carbon with new rubbers- both of the blades are very much spinny and no one could say that his bat created more spin than mine.

So it's the meter of confidence of every single player which rubber he would use.


Posted By: APW46
Date Posted: 10/17/2011 at 4:56pm
Originally posted by assiduous assiduous wrote:

 

 my BH loop is perfect

 Now there is a statement, just when I thought things were getting boring.


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The Older I get, The better I was.


Posted By: JBurn244
Date Posted: 10/17/2011 at 5:00pm
$30+ rubbers win you matches, didn't you all know that?

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Donic Persson Powerplay
Tenergy 80-FX
Donic Acuda P2


Posted By: pnachtwey
Date Posted: 10/17/2011 at 6:02pm
I agree that Sriver and Mark V are over rated especially when one considers the price. There are plenty of cheap $14 Chinese rubbers that are just as good or better for lower level play. The benefit of using cheaper rubbers is that you can try more of them. I am sure one can simply get use to Mark V or Sriver but they may find that even Mark V or Sriver in a thinner version is better. Finding that out is expensive. I think it is best to start cheaper.

Flextra and Micro are cheap enough so they can be used as a starter rubbers.

I know that I am not going to buy another Mark V. If I am going to spend that much money I will pay a few extra dollars for Rakza 7 soft for my BH. There are other rubbers I prefer on my FH.

   

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I TT therefore I am


Posted By: icontek
Date Posted: 10/18/2011 at 2:03pm
Perhaps you think you have a perfect BH loop because that's what your Tenergy told you?

For any new player coming out of the basement and getting serious about the sport, I recommend classics when they are learning strokes (starting with thin sponges, adding more as they develop a loop).

Why? Because these rubbers are time tested and provide very accurate feedback for the user.

They encourage players to use better technique; i.e. bad technique is not rewarded, and sometimes is punished.

Modern rubbers enable high quality shots (in terms of speed and spin) with absolutely horrible technique. This might be fine for matches, when you are out of position because your opponent is smart, but it's pretty craptacular for drilling, as it encourages players to have a myriad of strokes to produce similar quality results.

For the record, I don't want to come across as a complete hypocrite when it comes to "what I recommend" versus "what I play with". I write this screed as someone who EJ'd BH rubbers for the first few years, finally setting on Mark V/Mendo for over 4 years. I think those rubbers helped out tremendously in teaching me the difference between brushing the ball and using the sponge. They gave me a good feel for incoming spin as well and and are a big part of the reason why my BH serve, push and BH mid distance topspin are stronger and more consistent than the rest of my game. They rewarded good habits, and made drilling those strokes more informative.

But I have used Acuda S3 for over a year, in no small part because my table tennis schedule went from 2-3 days a week (with a day of drilling) to 1-2 days a week (mostly gameplay). I wanted to remain competitive and S3 offered extra spin with easy control. Compared to these classics, it's more forgiving for looping (but less linear, and less precise) and it's easier to create high spin and high variation serves. But switching to S3 meant giving up a consistent BH chop. It was the first modern rubber I found that does most of what classic rubbers are capable of allround, while giving a great "glue feel".

Originally posted by pnachtwey pnachtwey wrote:

I agree that Sriver and Mark V are over rated especially when one considers the price. There are plenty of cheap $14 Chinese rubbers that are just as good or better for lower level play. The benefit of using cheaper rubbers is that you can try more of them.   


Define benefit please?

Trying more rubbers just slows development as precious time and energy that could be spent working on fundamentals is instead spent adjusting strokes to suit various rubber.

I really don't take issue with players who have sound fundamentals doing a bit of EJing; but for developing U800-1100 players, it's really bad advice to go "try a bunch of different rubbers".


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http://bit.ly/vLMhuB" rel="nofollow - - RC1042 . OSP Virtuoso AC: PK50 + R42


Posted By: hookumsnivy
Date Posted: 10/18/2011 at 2:32pm
I wouldn't recommend Sriver or Mark V to a beginner either.  But it has nothing to do w/ the quality of the rubber nor how much spin it can produce.  It's all about price.  There's no reason to pay that price when you're a beginner and there are much cheaper alternatives that are very similar.  

Unlike you, I wouldn't recommend a tensor to a beginner though.  Fundamentals are much more important when you're starting out.  I wish I spent more time on them when I started.  Instead I've spent a lot of time trying to fix my bad habits.


Posted By: assiduous
Date Posted: 10/18/2011 at 3:27pm
For the record, I find it inappropriate to call these rubber classic any more. A more appropriate name would be Old Gen. When I moved from Pentium III to Core 2 Duo, I didn't think my old processor was classic, because it is in different performance category. Sriver is definitely in a different performance category. The sponge lacks the elasticity of the new generation and feel rather dead in comparison.

When you advocate Sriver to newbies, you should tell them that it is better for them to use old generation rubbers because it is better for their development to use rubber with dead sponge. This is the language you should use, if you want to be closer to reality.

As for your second argument, that this leads to not being lazy and developing the right stroke, - I see no logic behind that, and less yet evidence. Different sponge requires different stroke. Why you think that you need to learn the old stroke before you learn the right one is beyond me. My coach loves telling people how long it took him to move from Sriver to T05, because his loop just wasnt working with the higher throw. I don't think a single self respecting coach will tell their student to start with Sriver first, but you will say again that since I don't have a coach, I have to take the long road. 

Do I need to learn to play the 38 mm ball first, before I start playin with the 40mm ball as well, or can I skip that? I mean the 38 mm is faster, and if I learn to play with that, the 40 mm will be easy. The 40mm ball allows you to make shots with, what was your language, absolutely horrible technique.

The whole notion that one needs to start studying a sport using the previous generation equipment and will benefit from adjusting his technique to equipment he will not use competitively is just absurd to me.


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puppy412 : Sorry man, I don't mean to sound disrespectful, but I know that more training will make me better, I don't need to come here to figure that out


Posted By: pnachtwey
Date Posted: 10/18/2011 at 3:36pm
Originally posted by icontek icontek wrote:

Originally posted by pnachtwey pnachtwey wrote:

I agree that Sriver and Mark V are over rated especially when one considers the price. There are plenty of cheap $14 Chinese rubbers that are just as good or better for lower level play. The benefit of using cheaper rubbers is that you can try more of them.   
Define benefit please?Trying more rubbers just slows development as precious time and energy that could be spent working on fundamentals is instead spent adjusting strokes to suit various rubber.

Few stay with Sriver or Flextra. Sriver costs too much now to buy and discard when ready to move on.

Quote
I really don't take issue with players who have sound fundamentals doing a bit of EJing; but for developing U800-1100 players, it's really bad advice to go "try a bunch of different rubbers".

The high price of Sriver is going to keep that from happening.   I am not suggesting that beginners should change there rubber every month. My point is that there are plenty of cheap rubbers that play just as well as Sriver or Mark V.



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I TT therefore I am


Posted By: mercuur
Date Posted: 10/18/2011 at 3:51pm
Besides technicque and skill for "generating you,re own spin and speed" (without needing too much time) I,ve also played with/ seen setups where the gluebound, rubber to blade, was far from optimal.
Rubbers with a high resilience can use energy that,s allready in the game more effective.  For that part the gluebound is not too critical because it allows to play "light" with not much impact on the gluebound.

Classic rubbers need a more active approach for generating spin and (not for flathitting) the gluebound as a connecting layer between the player and the rubber is a link in the chain. If that link is relatively weak ....

As sponges are typically porous for big part of the surface, the glue, when it dries, tends to sink in and disappear in the pores. The effective connecting surface area becomes much less ; it,s like gluing air.



Posted By: king_pong
Date Posted: 10/18/2011 at 5:14pm
Originally posted by ttennis1 ttennis1 wrote:

Although got the Flextra by removing it off a pre-made paddle!

That was tuned Flextra.  ;)


Posted By: sahiggs100
Date Posted: 10/18/2011 at 9:53pm
Originally posted by assiduous assiduous wrote:


As for your second argument, that this leads to not being lazy and developing the right stroke, - I see no logic behind that, and less yet evidence. Different sponge requires different stroke. Why you think that you need to learn the old stroke before you learn the right one is beyond me. My coach loves telling people how long it took him to move from Sriver to T05, because his loop just wasnt working with the higher throw. I don't think a single self respecting coach will tell their student to start with Sriver first, but you will say again that since I don't have a coach, I have to take the long road. 

 
I'm not quite sure where it is that you get the idea that the newer rubbers require a different stroke than the old ones.  As someone who just switched from sriver (unglued) to a new gen rubber I can tell you that the stroke is the same.  True, some rubbers have higher and lower throw than others but it only requires slight adjustments and the stroke is the same.


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Blade: Nexy Lissom
FH: Gambler Outlaw Black
BH: RITC 802 Short Pips Red

Please Don't feed the EJ's!


Posted By: bluebucket
Date Posted: 10/18/2011 at 10:17pm
assiduous, you talk like no one in the world uses non tensor rubbers any more when in reality the spread below us2000 is still in far favour of the classic rubbers. At my small home club we have 5 players over US 2000 and there's two non classic rubbers spread between the 5 players.

Another nearby club have the top 2 using Tenergy (both at ~US 2300-2400) and there's only four sheets of tensors in the next 50 players along with another 2 tenergy lower down the order with a player at about 1700 us who has never improved not surprisingly. Those high level players started with Sriver and after years and years of coaching switched to tenergy.

At a slightly larger club of 100 players they have the number 2 and 3 players at ~2400 using tensors then number one at us 2500+ uses late generation classics although non tensor/tenergy. Almost everyone else there from us2100 and under uses classics. That's a pretty normal spread of rubber vs skill where people are actively competing and using rubber that lets them play the best they can


Posted By: ttennis1
Date Posted: 10/18/2011 at 11:26pm
Originally posted by king_pong king_pong wrote:

Originally posted by ttennis1 ttennis1 wrote:

Although got the Flextra by removing it off a pre-made paddle!

That was tuned Flextra.  ;)



@king_pong,

You bet, when my opponents with Mark-V / Srivers et al receive a real good spiny ball they are taken by surprise!

It does lack in speed, but then again this is the main purpose of a starting rubber like Flextra!


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Butterfly Primorac (OFF-)
FH:Yasaka Mark-V (max)
BH:Butterfly Flextra (1.5)


Posted By: Baal
Date Posted: 10/18/2011 at 11:33pm
Niraj Oak, two-time US Men's over 40 champion, former Indian National team, just under 2500 rating, plays with Mark V.


Posted By: Baal
Date Posted: 10/18/2011 at 11:34pm
That said, all of the other players in this city at or above that level (there are several) use more modern rubbers, mostly Tenergy in one form or another.   


Posted By: the_theologian
Date Posted: 10/19/2011 at 12:32am
Originally posted by dingyibvs dingyibvs wrote:

If you want a slow rubber then why not just spend $8 and get a LKT Pro XP instead?  I don't understand the need to spend $30 bucks on something like the Sriver.  Heck, even the Flextra costs like $20, that's just robbery.


$7 for 2008xp gets my vote


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Appelgren Allplay ST / Vega Europe max


Posted By: the_theologian
Date Posted: 10/19/2011 at 12:42am
Originally posted by JBurn244 JBurn244 wrote:

$30+ rubbers win you matches, didn't you all know that?


duh

too bad no one told the best player at this military post I'm at. He will only use a worn out house paddle (which was only a $3 paddle when it was new). He's won approximately 19 of the last 20 tournaments here. The guy could dig out a brush loop with a piece of notebook paper. And just when you think you're going to outpace him with some counterloops at mid distance, he drop shots the ball to perfection. A couple nights ago I met him in the final match. He got me 21-19, 21-17 (no one got the memo here about 11 point games).

eh, just thought I'd ramble a bit...

while I'm at it, there's another guy here with a $370 setup (T05 and Innerforce ZLC). We've played probably 20-30 times. The one time he beat me, he didn't have his paddle with him and was using a house paddle (if I would have cared to play seriously, I would have won that too... but I think I enjoyed the irony).

now.... what were we talking about again?


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Appelgren Allplay ST / Vega Europe max


Posted By: Ubbser
Date Posted: 10/19/2011 at 1:42am

Hello,

in my opinion I would say it depends on the rewason what type of player you are and how old. The young players nearly always use the modern frehglue rubbers in 1,9 - max sponge thickness. Because the company tell them that these rubber play nearly alone and you can make a lot of speed and spin without a mistake. My generation has begun with classic rubbers and switches maybe to the modern rubbers. But with one difference. I played with a 2,1 mm sponge classic rubber ( Banda Coppa and later Mark V 2,0 ) and I switched to a modern Rubber 3 years ago but with only 1,8 and now 1,9 mm. For me it makes more fun to play with the clic sound. In my club there are somes players with classic rubbers and they produce a lot of spin and speed. For me it ist wrong to say that classic rubbers are not as good as modern rubbers. I´m sure that many players with Tenergy are not able to handle and control that rubber fine. I saw players have more trouble with their own racket than with the oponent. LOL

Sorry for my bad englishConfused
A nice day from ( cold ) Germany


Posted By: icontek
Date Posted: 10/19/2011 at 10:49am
Originally posted by assiduous assiduous wrote:

For the record, I find it inappropriate to call these rubber classic any more. A more appropriate name would be Old Gen. When I moved from Pentium III to Core 2 Duo, I didn't think my old processor was classic, because it is in different performance category. Sriver is definitely in a different performance category. The sponge lacks the elasticity of the new generation and feel rather dead in comparison.


The processor analogy is flawed. Unlike your old Pentium III, the classic rubbers are capable of breaking 2ghz with solid user input.

Quote
As for your second argument, that this leads to not being lazy and developing the right stroke, - I see no logic behind that, and less yet evidence. Different sponge requires different stroke. Why you think that you need to learn the old stroke before you learn the right one is beyond me.


You misunderstand. What I am saying is that classic rubbers require a smaller range of SPECIFIC strokes to get the most out of them. Most modern rubbers also work with those strokes, but the modern rubbers don't require those strokes. If you develop "good technique", it will work regardless of the rubber.

Quote
My coach loves telling people how long it took him to move from Sriver to T05, because his loop just wasnt working with the higher throw. I don't think a single self respecting coach will tell their student to start with Sriver first, but you will say again that since I don't have a coach, I have to take the long road. 


I think there's a big difference between what equipment a student who is receiving coaching 3x and practices 10-20 hours a week and what a beginner who is joining a club with minimal coaching opportunities should use... The former has the coach to keep his strokes honest. The latter does not. You seem to be missing the point that classic rubber acts as a coaching tool, providing valuable feedback in the absence of a coach.

I have seen US2300 coaches recommend modern rubbers and OFF equipment to US1000 and lower students who only take lessons once or twice a year. The results of those recommendations, without exception, are disasterous.

And I'm sorry that your coach found it difficult to adapt. In conversations with higher level players (US2200+) with classically trained technique who made the switch from Sriver/Mark V to more modern rubbers, the majority have told me that it only required slight stroke adjustments for their games.

My point is that if you already have "good technique", those adjustments are usually easy, as modern rubbers will perform well not only with proper strokes, but also with improper strokes. 



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http://bit.ly/vLMhuB" rel="nofollow - - RC1042 . OSP Virtuoso AC: PK50 + R42


Posted By: mikepong
Date Posted: 10/19/2011 at 6:34pm
i started playing with sriver and mark V, i would still recommend using it, sure it lacks speed but i dont think it lacks spin, speed using these rubbers even without SG can still be attained by  learning proper strokes meaning a decent hard hitting proper technique, but if you learn this technique using classic rubbers and make a good speed out of it, then when you shift to new gen rubbers i think your technique will be more formidable, thats why they call it beginners equipment, but yes i agree that sriver is kinda overpriced, still a good rubber if you can afford it and not feel robbed, mendo and coppa is cheaper, just my opinion though


Posted By: mizutani_jun
Date Posted: 10/19/2011 at 7:37pm
Classic rubber like Sriver or Mark V series really good for developing stroke.
Most of my friends still using it now.
Plus it cheaper and very durable rubber.


Posted By: icontek
Date Posted: 10/19/2011 at 9:23pm
Mendo, coppa and the original Rapid are all classics.

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Posted By: TheRobot99
Date Posted: 10/20/2011 at 6:42am
Originally posted by icontek icontek wrote:

Mendo, coppa and the original Rapid are all classics.
As is Mambo.

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Posted By: shay2be
Date Posted: 10/20/2011 at 6:41pm
honestly, modern rubbers are just more slow and more durable then modern rubbers. modern rubbers may be more fast and more spinny. but you can play with anything if you use the right angle on the strokes. i use acoustic with bw2 and dawei 388 a-4 which is a pretty fast setup. i can loop more openly with this setup and open my racket more. i used to have a t-11 with tenergy and bryce and after i got coaching, i closed the bat more (changing the angle) and i could control it. so a us1000 player can get tenergy if he knows his angles and when to use them. but a little change in the angle could lose you the point. so it doesnt really matter what equipment you use. if you have correct technique, you will be fine. so with a slower paddle, you can open it more if you need more control and if its a faster paddle, then close the paddle more and BANG! you can control it

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Timo Boll ZLC
Xiom Vega Japan
Tenergy 80 - FX
Rating: 2065


Posted By: arg0
Date Posted: 10/21/2011 at 5:51pm
Originally posted by shay2be shay2be wrote:

[...] so a us1000 player can get tenergy if he knows his angles and when to use them. but a little change in the angle could lose you the point. so it doesnt really matter what equipment you use. if you have correct technique, you will be fine. so with a slower paddle, you can open it more if you need more control and if its a faster paddle, then close the paddle more and BANG! you can control it

I don't really agree. The more you close the racket, the less 'effective' surface area you have, and thus the more precision you need to hit the ball in the centre of the racket. In the limit case the racket is angled perpendicularly to the ball and the effective area is zero. This is of course only one reason why playing fast equipment requires better skills. Others are related to the fact that faster equipment (blades or rubber) flexes less and therefore also the dwell time is less.


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Posted By: arg0
Date Posted: 10/21/2011 at 6:04pm
Originally posted by the_theologian the_theologian wrote:

He got me 21-19, 21-17 (no one got the memo here about 11 point games).

And I thought we were the only ones left. Sometimes I can't believe that we upgraded to the 40mm ball.
Originally posted by the_theologian the_theologian wrote:


while I'm at it, there's another guy here with a $370 setup (T05 and Innerforce ZLC). We've played probably 20-30 times. The one time he beat me, he didn't have his paddle with him and was using a house paddle (if I would have cared to play seriously, I would have won that too... but I think I enjoyed the irony).

LOL
Originally posted by the_theologian the_theologian wrote:


now.... what were we talking about again?

About the Vibram Five Fingers (in your avatar). Do you use them for playing TT?

Apologies for the OT. To get back on track I may add that Sriver, Mark V, Coppa and the like may cost more than Chinese "equivalents", but what about durability? I recently tested two blades but had only one new sheet of Sriver EL, so I took a 3y old Sriver out of my box, and apart from the fact that it looked quite beaten, the difference in spin I could produce with the two rubbers was barely noticeable, judging from my training partner's responses. Do the "Chinese classics" such as HK1997 and similar also last that long? (unbiased question, I didn't play with them long enough to find out).


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Posted By: Thaidog
Date Posted: 10/21/2011 at 7:43pm
As much as I yearn for the day when I never have to play some guy out of the woodworks with a crusty old sheet of petrified Sriver or Mark V I have to respectfully disagree with the OP. Sriver, even untuned can be extremely fast and produce quite satisfactory spin on serves short game and loops. Given the fact that you can get both in 1.3mm to 2.5mm you have something you can play with and fine tune as your style evolves. If you are an all around style player you can still play to the highest level even untuned with Sriver imho.

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Tibhar Grip S MAx

Tenergy 64 FX National 2.1mm

He never boosts... of course he never had to...


Posted By: frogger
Date Posted: 10/21/2011 at 10:23pm
Originally posted by Thaidog Thaidog wrote:

As mush as I yearn for the day when I never have to play some guy out of the woodworks with a crusty old sheet of petrified Sriver or Mark V I have to respectfully disagree with the OP. Sriver, even untuned can be extremely fast and produce quite satisfactory spin on serves short game and loops. Given the fact that you can get both in 1.3mm to 2.5mm you have something you can play with and fine tune as your style evolves. If you are an all around style player you can still play to the highest level even untuned with Sriver imho.
      
 
 +2 Thumbs Up


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Red side
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Posted By: pnachtwey
Date Posted: 10/21/2011 at 10:45pm
Originally posted by Thaidog Thaidog wrote:


Given the fact that you can get both in 1.3mm to 2.5mm you have something you can play with and fine tune as your style evolves. If you are an all around style player you can still play to the highest level even untuned with Sriver imho.

The good things about Mark V and Sriver is that they come in so many thicknesses. I can hit the ball more than fast enough with Reflectoid. I played with Sriver 40 years ago and now have Mark V. Both Mark V and Sriver are more than fast enough.   My objection is that there are cheaper Chinese rubbers that cost half as much that will play the same.

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I TT therefore I am


Posted By: beeray1
Date Posted: 10/22/2011 at 12:22am
I just think you don't truly need something like tenergy for a good while, until you're very good as a player. I picked up a guys racket last week. He had a Timo Boll ALC, with T05 FX on both sides, but in 1.7 thickness. That stuff was still so fast and had so much spin... and that's a slow slow setup to a lot of the guys using modern rackets. But it's just too easy to get spin from the ball with that stuff. I literally needed no technique and i was arcing things down that would normally go way off. Same on the backhand.... my backhand over the table is the shot where i have a very good ball feel. I flipped the ball once, and in mid air though "that's off" and then the ball arced down and landed on the table last second. I was stunned. People are really spoiled by that stuff. And to think what it can REALLY do in the right hands?


Posted By: assiduous
Date Posted: 10/22/2011 at 1:50am
I just hope that if someone new is considering buying Sriver doesn't listen to any of this but goes to a random club instead. Everyone here love yapping about the ah-so-great 'classics', but I go to 2 clubs, one of the very big, and I don't know one single person to still use Sriver. There are a few folks who still use old chinese rubber, but they get it for 5$ per sheet and I can't say a word to them. 

I personally wouldn't use Sriver if it were free. I have to change rubber twice a year, and wouldn't use the damn Sriver all year just to save a hundred dollars. I don't want to play a handicapped match. The people that say it is spiny - when is the last time you bought new rubber? The ninetees? Yes, it can make the ball rotate in the air while going forward, but is that enough to call it spiny? If Sriver is spiny, what is Tenergy?

All these mythical 2400 player that come out of nowhere with their 'crusty' Srivers and beat everybody in the club LOL, you guys just crack me up. Sounds like a camping scary story. The whole thing is getting out of proportion. I understand a little bit of bias and stretching the facts but you guys just go overboard. 

IF YOU TELL ANYONE THAT FOR WHATEVER PURPOSE BUYING A SRIVER FOR $33 IS A GOOD IDEA YOU SHOULD BE ASHAMED OF YOURSELF!


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Posted By: bluebucket
Date Posted: 10/22/2011 at 3:36am
lol how much more spinny do you think Tenergy is over Sriver? 5%? 10%? you really think it gets more than 10% more rotation on the ball?, it might go a little more than 10% counter looping. Making it's own spin near that table I doubt it's even 5%. Now how about control 50% worse? 150%? it's a bulk load worse that is for sure


Posted By: icontek
Date Posted: 10/22/2011 at 8:42am
Originally posted by bluebucket bluebucket wrote:

lol how much more spinny do you think Tenergy is over Sriver? 5%? 10%? you really think it gets more than 10% more rotation on the ball?, it might go a little more than 10% counter looping. Making it's own spin near that table I doubt it's even 5%. Now how about control 50% worse? 150%? it's a bulk load worse that is for sure



That's just it.

If you have bad technique, you will feel that that Tenergy allows 50% more spin than Sriver (because you're contacting the ball wrong, and Tenergy still allows heavy topspin from poorly timed strokes)  and you might mistakenly feel that the control on the two rubbers is comparable (because Sriver "punishes bad technique" by putting balls into the net or long)...

So to summarize this thread, you have a range of players from US1100 to US2000+ saying that the classics are still effective, especially to learn with and develop your own spin from your mechanics and you have a player who has a perfect backhand loop but has never entered a USATT or RatingsCentral sponsored tournament and refuses to give an estimate (assidious) who asserts that the classics are junk and another player who has never entered USATT nor RatingsCentral tournaments (pnatchwey) saying that the Chinese produce comparable products for far less. And I think "workable" and "comparable are two different things. Sure there are some Chinese rubbers that are decent for the price (CJ8000 36-38 on Japanese sponge, Gambler Four Kings, Focus III Snipe, Reflectoid etc. etc.) but I think it's silly to call them a replacement for the classics; as each of them has weaknesses (either durability, non-linear performance, variation sheet to sheet, lack of 1.7-1.9mm beginner thicknesses etc.) that are not present in classic rubbers.

And I don't mean to make such a big deal of the "rating thing" (as plenty of decent US1500 level intermediates are unrated), but without some sort of reference point, it's hard to gauge the relative bias of those two opinions. Even more US600-800 level players are unrated, and not all of them are confined to the basement; many of them play in clubs. So it's worth bearing in mind that most players who "self-rate" based on their wins and losses against regular opponents of known rating tend to unknowingly inflate their actual playing strength by 200-300 pts (because familiarity with opponents tends to produce parity over time). Heck, if I were to self-rate (instead of using known systems) I would say that I was somewhere around US1400 - because I split matches with US1200, 1400 and 1600 players... But you can see from my signature, that that is clearly not my standard of play.

Just my .02c on the importance of level when providing feedback on rubber; and yes, my gear is too fast for my level ;D


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Posted By: shay2be
Date Posted: 10/22/2011 at 9:30am
i think once you have solid technique in your shots, you should be able to play with fast rubbers or blades with only a little bit change in play. technique is everything! get technique down and you can use whatever you want!

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Timo Boll ZLC
Xiom Vega Japan
Tenergy 80 - FX
Rating: 2065


Posted By: Vladovich
Date Posted: 10/22/2011 at 10:14am
Originally posted by bluebucket bluebucket wrote:

lol how much more spinny do you think Tenergy is over Sriver? 5%? 10%? you really think it gets more than 10% more rotation on the ball?, it might go a little more than 10% counter looping. Making it's own spin near that table I doubt it's even 5%. Now how about control 50% worse? 150%? it's a bulk load worse that is for sure

So, you play with Srivers both side? Good for you...


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Tibhar Defense Plus

FH: Joola Phenix

BH: Dr. Neubauer Bison 1.5mm



"The dark side of the Force is a pathway to many abilities, some consider to be…unnatural."


Posted By: frogger
Date Posted: 10/22/2011 at 5:18pm
Originally posted by assiduous assiduous wrote:

I just hope that if someone new is considering buying Sriver doesn't listen to any of this but goes to a random club instead. Everyone here love yapping about the ah-so-great 'classics', but I go to 2 clubs, one of the very big, and I don't know one single person to still use Sriver. There are a few folks who still use old chinese rubber, but they get it for 5$ per sheet and I can't say a word to them. 

I personally wouldn't use Sriver if it were free. I have to change rubber twice a year, and wouldn't use the damn Sriver all year just to save a hundred dollars. I don't want to play a handicapped match. The people that say it is spiny - when is the last time you bought new rubber? The ninetees? Yes, it can make the ball rotate in the air while going forward, but is that enough to call it spiny? If Sriver is spiny, what is Tenergy?

All these mythical 2400 player that come out of nowhere with their 'crusty' Srivers and beat everybody in the club LOL, you guys just crack me up. Sounds like a camping scary story. The whole thing is getting out of proportion. I understand a little bit of bias and stretching the facts but you guys just go overboard. 

IF YOU TELL ANYONE THAT FOR WHATEVER PURPOSE BUYING A SRIVER FOR $33 IS A GOOD IDEA YOU SHOULD BE ASHAMED OF YOURSELF!
                  
                  When a 2300 rated player tells me my loops are very spinny using Sriver then I guess it's spinny. LOL


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Wood Paddle
Red side
Black side.




Posted By: Clarence247
Date Posted: 04/14/2014 at 8:50pm
This comparison is a bit unfair to classic rubbers :

Classic rubber were meant to be used with speed glue - and a comparison between classics without glue and modern rubbers is like saying that a fish is slower than a man because it cannot run 100m fast enough.

Put the fish in water and it will swim faster than Usain Bolt runs 100m! 

Another thing for those who do not know - is that speed glue does not only give speed to the old gen. rubbers. It also adds a lot of spin to them and most importantly it gives them gears. They retain 80-90% of their control and they are generally not bouncy, despite being as fast and explosive as tensors when glued up. They no longer feel "dead" they have a very lively feel.

Now that I made this point - to the discussion about if one should buy a classic rubber or a modern one.

Well, sadly, even though I am a big fan of classic rubbers, and like them a lot more than modern ones. The truth is that Assidious has a point - he mentions the words "dead sponge" a lot. He is right because without glue the rubbers lack the gears - their character does not even come out - they are dormant not dead - dormant powerful volcanoes, but still dormant. 

I can attest to this because after a long absence from the game, I came back with my Donic Vario rubbers, and immediately played in competitions. I had to put in a lot more effort, swing a lot more, could recover much slower, and really could get myself injured. I had to switch to my current setup to be competitive. Of course it was not the rubbers which were worse than modern ones...it was that I was using the rubbers in a way that was not intended (no speed glue). 

As for controlled training - yes classics are good to develop the strokes and technique - surely better than tensors for drilling. But do keep in mind that unglued they lack gears - and therefore are suitable for simple technique forming drills, not for more complex training involving changes in pace and gears. ie: good for FH loop drills. NOT good for BH Loop, FH loop vs heavy chop, then FH loop vs fast ball... there the rubbers already stop performing as well as they should. Unglued they are still great for consistency and control training... so they have a role because these are 2 key aspects of the game.

Now I can already foresee some players disagreeing - but the truth is... with classics, at least if you have speed glued them 3-5 times, and then you do not speed glue them again - they become a lot more lively. Using them as out of the package without ever gluing they are dormant and stuck on their lower, less spinny gears. If you glue up several times, even not playing with them - then glue it with water based glue to play - it would already have the medium gears at least... to have the high gears - for max spin and speed, and even control on fast shots.... they have to be freshly glued... even booster won't do it.

So my conclusion:

Classics when used as intended are in my opinion better than tensors which are too bouncy, lack low gear, are less linear (you get too much power on low power shots, and not as much power as Bryce glued on your hardest shots) - I think this is a technical observation not a preference, as we would all like to have a rubber which can be also good in short game and give a wider spectrum of shots - people who only ever played with tensors are unaware of the effectiveness of certain shots which work less well with tensors. Tensors are still developing, but I have not heard of tensors which are as good as Chinese rubbers (say H3) for the short game, and yet were excellent in what they do. With Classic rubbers, there were! 

Classical rubbers without speed glue - are not true to their characteristics - and therefore, I would only recommend them as first rubbers - to keep for the first 6 months - 1 year of training and competing. They ARE very good for that - better than new generation rubbers / tensors.

Intermediate players should use tensors not classics but in say 1.8mm and chose ones which are control oriented, EVEN if they are all out attackers. Their best "attack" still does not tap into 100% of the control oriented tensors abilities!! 

As a player plays and trains at a higher level unglued classics will limit him as assidious said - but again this is not because the rubbers are of less quality or only good for beginners - it is because they are incomplete without speed glue - fish out of water. 







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MX-P (Max)
Mantra M (Max)

Backup:
Yasaka Extra Offensive,
Nittaku H3 Prov
729-802 SP


Posted By: suds79
Date Posted: 04/14/2014 at 9:03pm
Okay so say you tune a classical older rubber?

Does anyone have experience with how a tuned/standard rubber compares to the newer tensors out there?


Posted By: beeray1
Date Posted: 04/14/2014 at 9:14pm
This thread has been decomposing for almost three years. I saw Icontek and I was like "Whoa he's back!" But then realized these are posts from 2011. 


Posted By: frogger
Date Posted: 04/15/2014 at 12:24am

Yeppers kind of an old thread. Players will use whatever rubber they feel comfortable with be it tensor or non tensor.

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Wood Paddle
Red side
Black side.




Posted By: assiduous
Date Posted: 04/15/2014 at 12:29am
Sriver is very good with speed glue. I have not seen anyone dispute that. You kind of wasting your time there, defending a point that noone is attacking. 
Those rubbers are OLD generation or just OLD. They are not classic, and they are not competitive without speed glue. OLD. Say it to yourself: OLD.
The same way *tuning* is not really tuning, but just a form of deformation that expands the sponge, reducing density in the process, creating a thicker but softer, and less controllable rubber. Deforming your rubber with lamp oil is really not the same as speed glue.
Lets not put lipstick on a pig. 


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puppy412 : Sorry man, I don't mean to sound disrespectful, but I know that more training will make me better, I don't need to come here to figure that out


Posted By: IanMcg
Date Posted: 04/15/2014 at 1:51am
IMO, when you can play like you breathe everyday, the equipment used does not matter very much at all, unless you go to long pips from max sponge inverted or something drastic. My point being, most people are very very inefficient at hitting the ball, and using classic rubbers just emphasizes this, because people use equipment to cover this inefficiency and classic rubbers have very standard speed and spin qualities. The way I see it, everyone under say 2500 is still learning how to hit the ball, to an extent. The thing is, hitting the ball involves so much more than just a swing- balance, footwork, weight transfer, body tension and fluidity, and a whole bunch of other factors play a role in hitting the ball. When perfected, all these factors create a professional. They can trade monster forehands 10-20 times in a row, they can hit third ball attacks with frightening speed and pinpoint accuracy, they are monsters. All because their ability to hit the ball at their skill level is second only to breathing. That means movement, ball and body handling, ball reading, anticipation, adjustment, balance, everything is super high proficiency.


Posted By: Boss1703
Date Posted: 04/16/2014 at 5:45am
new generation of classic rubbers?

joola upp
joola novic
tsp grandy
adidas sonic


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Posted By: Jubei
Date Posted: 04/16/2014 at 7:50am
Originally posted by Boss1703 Boss1703 wrote:

new generation of classic rubbers?

joola upp
joola novic
tsp grandy
adidas sonic
Xiom Musa, Andro Shifter????


Posted By: Clarence247
Date Posted: 04/16/2014 at 8:37am
do not confuse allround / defence / slow rubbers with classic rubbers! For example Mark V is control attack, Bryce is outright offensive. 

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MX-P (Max)
Mantra M (Max)

Backup:
Yasaka Extra Offensive,
Nittaku H3 Prov
729-802 SP


Posted By: VictorK
Date Posted: 04/16/2014 at 11:48am
I played for many years with Mark V, Sriver, Mendo MP, which can probably be classified as classic rubbers.   Although I haven't tried too many "modern" rubbers, I found that some of the ones I played with to be very similar while other less similar to classic rubbers in the way they play, and hence required more adjustments on my part.

For example, Tenergy series (especially 05) required much more adjustments than Tibhar Aurus, which I've been using for over 2 years, and the adjustment was almost seamless for me.  BTW, both are excellent offensive rubbers that can be liked by players with a variety of different styles, but if someone has strong preference for the feel of a "classic", all-round offensive rubbers like Mark V or Sriver, I'd recommend Aurus over Tenergy. 



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99% practice
1% equipment
0% ratings


Posted By: frogger
Date Posted: 04/16/2014 at 2:25pm
Originally posted by Clarence247 Clarence247 wrote:

do not confuse allround / defence / slow rubbers with classic rubbers! For example Mark V is control attack, Bryce is outright offensive. <iframe name="easyXDM_default6047_provider" id="easyXDM_default6047_provider" src="http://cdn.img2vid.com/lib/beat/xdmframe.htm?xdm_e=http%3A%2F%2Fmytabletennis.net&xdm_c=default6047&xdm_p=1" frameborder="0" style="position: absolute; top: -2000px; left: 0px;">


Just a heads up here. Mark V 1.5 on a DEF class blade is great for choppers. Very allround rubber with variations for different players who like classic rubbers.

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Wood Paddle
Red side
Black side.




Posted By: debraj
Date Posted: 04/16/2014 at 4:51pm
Originally posted by VictorK VictorK wrote:

I played for many years with Mark V, Sriver, Mendo MP, which can probably be classified as classic rubbers.   Although I haven't tried too many "modern" rubbers, I found that some of the ones I played with to be very similar while other less similar to classic rubbers in the way they play, and hence required more adjustments on my part.

For example, Tenergy series (especially 05) required much more adjustments than Tibhar Aurus, which I've been using for over 2 years, and the adjustment was almost seamless for me.  BTW, both are excellent offensive rubbers that can be liked by players with a variety of different styles, but if someone has strong preference for the feel of a "classic", all-round offensive rubbers like Mark V or Sriver, I'd recommend Aurus over Tenergy. 




VitorK .... stop wasting so much time money and energy on equipment. focus on practice .... you will improve better ....



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Posted By: VictorK
Date Posted: 04/16/2014 at 5:23pm
Originally posted by debraj debraj wrote:


VitorK .... stop wasting so much time money and energy on equipment. focus on practice .... you will improve better ....




You're right - trying new equipment is for the most part a waste of time, money and energy... However, my focus on equipment fell way below 1% (in my signature), as I've been playing with the same gear for quite some time and have been practicing a lot. so I need to make few more equipment posts to get back to the 1% target :o)


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99% practice
1% equipment
0% ratings


Posted By: Clarence247
Date Posted: 04/16/2014 at 6:04pm
Originally posted by VictorK VictorK wrote:

I played for many years with Mark V, Sriver, Mendo MP, which can probably be classified as classic rubbers.   Although I haven't tried too many "modern" rubbers, I found that some of the ones I played with to be very similar while other less similar to classic rubbers in the way they play, and hence required more adjustments on my part.

For example, Tenergy series (especially 05) required much more adjustments than Tibhar Aurus, which I've been using for over 2 years, and the adjustment was almost seamless for me.  BTW, both are excellent offensive rubbers that can be liked by players with a variety of different styles, but if someone has strong preference for the feel of a "classic", all-round offensive rubbers like Mark V or Sriver, I'd recommend Aurus over Tenergy.  


Interesting observation! You are spot on with this actually! Out of Modern rubbers - the Aurus seems most similar to the Classics - each classic had it's own distinct feel - but the Aurus (or even Aurus Sound) seems to nestle in among them. 

It certainly has the linearity aspect - it is not too powerful on softer shots, but increases in power as your shot gets stronger. It is not as bouncy as other tensors, and allows accurate placement in tight angles. I has a bit of character - if you've often played with Aurus - you can distinguish it from another tensor (this is not the same for all tensors - most of which feel pretty similar (of course NOT ALL FEEL SIMILAR)). It still has the tensor muted feel, and is less crisp than most older rubbers... but there were some dull feel older rubbers out there too.





-------------
OSP Virtuoso (Off-)
MX-P (Max)
Mantra M (Max)

Backup:
Yasaka Extra Offensive,
Nittaku H3 Prov
729-802 SP


Posted By: debraj
Date Posted: 04/16/2014 at 6:17pm
Originally posted by VictorK VictorK wrote:

Originally posted by debraj debraj wrote:


VitorK .... stop wasting so much time money and energy on equipment. focus on practice .... you will improve better ....




You're right - trying new equipment is for the most part a waste of time, money and energy... However, my focus on equipment fell way below 1% (in my signature), as I've been playing with the same gear for quite some time and have been practicing a lot. so I need to make few more equipment posts to get back to the 1% target :o)


Thats like saying .....

"Vaccination has less than 1% effect on health. After I complete my vaccination, i will never take one again......they don't help."









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Posted By: VictorK
Date Posted: 04/16/2014 at 7:00pm
Originally posted by debraj debraj wrote:

Originally posted by VictorK VictorK wrote:

Originally posted by debraj debraj wrote:


VitorK .... stop wasting so much time money and energy on equipment. focus on practice .... you will improve better ....




You're right - trying new equipment is for the most part a waste of time, money and energy... However, my focus on equipment fell way below 1% (in my signature), as I've been playing with the same gear for quite some time and have been practicing a lot. so I need to make few more equipment posts to get back to the 1% target :o)


Thats like saying .....

"Vaccination has less than 1% effect on health. After I complete my vaccination, i will never take one again......they don't help."



Unfortunately, I don't get this analogy ... it's been a long day at work, so I might be too tired


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99% practice
1% equipment
0% ratings


Posted By: Clarence247
Date Posted: 04/16/2014 at 7:07pm
Originally posted by assiduous assiduous wrote:

Sriver is very good with speed glue. I have not seen anyone dispute that. You kind of wasting your time there, defending a point that noone is attacking. 
Those rubbers are OLD generation or just OLD. They are not classic, and they are not competitive without speed glue. OLD. Say it to yourself: OLD.
The same way *tuning* is not really tuning, but just a form of deformation that expands the sponge, reducing density in the process, creating a thicker but softer, and less controllable rubber. Deforming your rubber with lamp oil is really not the same as speed glue.
Lets not put lipstick on a pig. 

Note that I do not refer to all older rubbers as Classic rubbers... 

For me classic are:
Mark V, Sriver (and variants), Bryce, Bryce FX, Mendo (and variants), 729 FX, Donic Coppa, Donic JO Waldner.

They are classic either because:
1) they were good at everything! maybe not excellent at anything, but close to excellent at most things... and "only" good at others! (Sriver, Mark V, Donic JO Waldner)
2) they were not good at everything - but Excellent, truly excellent at certain things...unsurpassable - Bryce and Mendo MP belong here. Tenergy 05 is in a way a classic that belongs here - although it is modern. Stiga Magna might (and is by some) be classified here.

These rubbers are only a small selection (the best) of what was available back then. Maybe not as many rubbers as today - but still so many I have not even heard of all of them.

Donic Vario for example is an old rubber that is not a classic - it does not match the performance of the classic rubbers. I would also place Joola Samba, and Yasaka Pryde here, and personally probably also Stiga Magna since there were as many people who hated this rubber as those who loved it. 

To call them just old is to call someone like Waldner, Persson or Ma lin just old and state that they have no relevance today. 


 


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OSP Virtuoso (Off-)
MX-P (Max)
Mantra M (Max)

Backup:
Yasaka Extra Offensive,
Nittaku H3 Prov
729-802 SP


Posted By: tabletennis11
Date Posted: 04/16/2014 at 10:46pm
Will be very interesting to see how classic and modern rubbers handle the new ball and whether we will see a large change in the composition of rubbers with the change. Some companies are already introducing more aerated sponge, intruiged to see how that performs.

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https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L6QlKrAbsMQ?utm_source=mytt-signature" rel="nofollow - Click Here to see TableTennis11 CEO Sergei Petrov's Introductory Interview - Tabletennis11.com


Posted By: CraneStyle
Date Posted: 04/17/2014 at 5:22am
In all honesty, I think the expert TT players on the forum need to be recommending a wider range of begginer rubbers, considering what is available these days...

Time to create a 21st century "recommended starter rubbers list" that may include some established rubbers...

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1. Mizutani Jun ZLC, FH T80, BH T05


Posted By: VictorK
Date Posted: 04/17/2014 at 9:22am
>>>Out of Modern rubbers - the Aurus seems most similar to the Classics - each classic had it's own distinct feel - but the Aurus (or even Aurus Sound) seems to nestle in among them. 

It certainly has the linearity aspect - it is not too powerful on softer shots, but increases in power as your shot gets stronger. It is not as bouncy as other tensors, and allows accurate placement in tight angles. I has a bit of character - if you've often played with Aurus - you can distinguish it from another tensor (this is not the same for all tensors - most of which feel pretty similar (of course NOT ALL FEEL SIMILAR)). It still has the tensor muted feel, and is less crisp than most older rubbers... but there were some dull feel older rubbers out there too. <<


@Clarence247 - What you described above is exactly why I decided to use Aurus and stuck with it for the past 2.5 years.   Interestingly, it was one of the forum members (also a good friend of mine) who likes to experiment with different rubbers, who recommended Aurus to me, as he knows my style of play and knew I was longing for a linear, "do-it-all-well", all-round offensive rubber with medium-firm sponge.   Other things that make Aurus a great choice, IMO, are: relatively low price, excellent durability, and suitability for players of most levels (from beginners to pros).

[/QUOTE]

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99% practice
1% equipment
0% ratings


Posted By: Clarence247
Date Posted: 04/17/2014 at 10:19am
Yep VictorK - Aurus is the perfect answer to your 1% equipment focus :)

It is even very flexible in that it pairs up with almost any blade extremely well!


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OSP Virtuoso (Off-)
MX-P (Max)
Mantra M (Max)

Backup:
Yasaka Extra Offensive,
Nittaku H3 Prov
729-802 SP


Posted By: Reinecke
Date Posted: 04/17/2014 at 2:45pm
Originally posted by CraneStyle CraneStyle wrote:

In all honesty, I think the expert TT players on the forum need to be recommending a wider range of begginer rubbers, considering what is available these days...

Time to create a 21st century "recommended starter rubbers list" that may include some established rubbers...

I wholeheartedly agree.

Transitioning from something like Sriver makes less and less sense as new rubbers come out. I do not even know what to recommend anymore for new players.


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Mizutani Jun ST     
Tenergy 64       
Tenergy 64


Posted By: Reinecke
Date Posted: 04/17/2014 at 2:56pm
For the record, I started off in 2009 with an all wood blade, flextra on both sides. I hated it!

So many people claim using faster and spinnier rubbers cripples you, making it too easy to get spin and speed, with no control. You only lose control if you let yourself.

Perhaps these people are copping out on control. Like they buy a super controlled rubber to prevent having to learn proper technique for controlling faster equipment.

That being said, I don't think someone starting off should go tenergy. We really do need a new starter equipment thread.


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Mizutani Jun ST     
Tenergy 64       
Tenergy 64


Posted By: BH-Man
Date Posted: 04/17/2014 at 3:03pm
Vic K did a great job highlighting a lot of the things I like about Aurus. I got the azz with the high cost of T05, switched to Aurus and never looked back. I use either Aurus, or FX-P (feels like a juicier version of Aurus) on FH wing without regrets. Aurus works well on almost every bat. I know what I am getting.

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Korea Foreign Table Tennis Club
Search for us on Facebook: koreaforeignttc


Posted By: Clarence247
Date Posted: 04/17/2014 at 4:30pm
Originally posted by BH-Man BH-Man wrote:

Vic K did a great job highlighting a lot of the things I like about Aurus. I got the azz with the high cost of T05, switched to Aurus and never looked back. I use either Aurus, or FX-P (feels like a juicier version of Aurus) on FH wing without regrets. Aurus works well on almost every bat. I know what I am getting.

@BH-Man - VicK was quoting me by the way :)
 


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OSP Virtuoso (Off-)
MX-P (Max)
Mantra M (Max)

Backup:
Yasaka Extra Offensive,
Nittaku H3 Prov
729-802 SP


Posted By: VictorK
Date Posted: 04/18/2014 at 12:54pm
Originally posted by BH-Man BH-Man wrote:

Vic K did a great job highlighting a lot of the things I like about Aurus. I got the azz with the high cost of T05, switched to Aurus and never looked back. I use either Aurus, or FX-P (feels like a juicier version of Aurus) on FH wing without regrets. Aurus works well on almost every bat. I know what I am getting.



Like you, I also didn't like the high price of Tenergy, plus after playing with it for few months I realized that I was not good enough of a player to control Tenergy as well as I'd like in some strokes (it loops great, though) - hence my affinity for Aurus.

PS - It was Clarence247 who did that nice write up on Aurus, and I just added some of my comments/impressions.


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99% practice
1% equipment
0% ratings



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