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continued discussion: carbon vs ALL blade advice Printed From: Alex Table Tennis - MyTableTennis.NET Category: Equipment Forum Name: Equipment Forum Description: Share your experience and discussions about table tennis equipments. Moderator: haggisv Assistant Moderators: position available URL: http://mytabletennis.net/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=45457 Printed Date: 04/29/2024 at 12:43pm Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 12.01 - http://www.webwizforums.com Topic: continued discussion: carbon vs ALL blade advice Posted By: the_theologian Subject: continued discussion: carbon vs ALL blade advice Date Posted: 11/03/2011 at 12:39pm
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..................... So, here we are at a new thread with a new topic title which will hopefully draw some good discussion on the opinions given above. Please chime in with a thoughtful 2 cents (thoughtful as in, not the drive by "Timo Boll ALC is awesome!" and nothing more) -the_theologian ------------- Appelgren Allplay ST / Vega Europe max |
I think I'll start with a rough history of the blades I've used and why I felt I needed to change them, I'll guestamate the level I was at with each change. Started, ALL+ 7 ply Basswood blade. Rating beginner to-1500US, I used this for about 2 years, reason for change, it was already 10 years old when I got it and finally broke at the neck from old age. Next blade was a thin -off 5 ply similar/same to Primorac -off I used this for 5 years solid, rating change with this blade approx 1500-1900. Reason for change, wanted a carbon blade. Next blade was a 90gram 5+2 carbon off+ I started with this blade on around US1900 and used it for roughly 7 years, I actually went backwards in rating during this time but I was still able to play at 1900 level in tough matches by picking up the previous -off if the match was going bad (you could change blades back then) I kept hoping I would master the carbon blade at some stage but I just never seemed to be able to play better with it. Estimated rating change with this blade 1900-1800. Reason for change, lost the blade. Next blade was a 95 gram off+ carbon, I used this for one year estimated rating change 1800-1900. Reason for change, I realised I just couldn't improve past this point with a heavy and fast carbon blade. Next blade was a 75 gram off balsa, I used this for 10 years, rating change 1900-2100 ish. All that previous history until the last 2 years with this blade I had been playing a relatively small amount of table tennis. I started playing more seriously 2 years ago and realised this blade was far too fast. Reason for change - too fast Next blade was a 95 gram ALL+ 5 ply, I've used this for 3 months est rating change 2100-2200 and gaining at a much faster rate than any other time in my life. I will go one blade slower than this soon, to a pure ALL, at this stage it looks like I'll peak somewhere between 2300 and 2400 in the coming few years before I get too old to play so offensively. The common theme for me in all that is pretty obvious, the slower the blade the faster the gain
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Very interesting topic!! I used a carbo 7.6 wrb for my first two years of trying to get good at table tennis(~1000 usatt) I improved maybe around 200 points in two years and developed a blocking game with my backhand but never developed good forehand fundamentals. Around 2 or 3 months ago I realized it was way too fast, and now I have a 5 ply all wood blade with mark v and donic coppa. In that little time, I have developed much better forehand fundamentals and I don't have to only rely on blocking. I believe I have already improved to around 1300 usatt in that short time. I love the all wood feel! |
Are these ratings USATT estimates or Australian ratings? I have no idea really what Australian ratings are and how they are calculated, just academic interest there... ------------- Single Ply Hinoki Club, Founding Member Say "no!" to expensive table tennis equipment. Please... |
Only estimated US so it means something to the casual reader. I should note I'm not playing in anyway the same as I did a few months ago, it's not like I picked up a slower blade and went woah dude.. I've improved instantly. I've had to learn a whole lot more about the game, hit thousands and thousands of balls and learn a lot of advanced shots I didn't hit before in that time. But the blade has let me learn, where before I couldn't. I had the main strokes already with good quality, yet I was always concerned just about making the stroke so I hadn't the time to see where the other player was moving, where his arm was, think about where's the least likely spot he's going to get to the ball or how to unbalance him. I have time to think about all that stuff and make a last moment change of direction now that I'm not worried about making the loop stick, I don't even need to think about hitting the ball or consciously look at it any more, I'm only looking forward down the table and deciding what I'm going to do with it and how much pace and spin will I put on it. It's been a quite large shift in the way my mind is working while playing. 've even got the time to tilt the blade and fade a backhand loop down the line with sidespin or make any changes like this instinctively mid stroke. I could never play those kind of shots with any kind of success rate with carbon blades ,with those you just worry about making the shot and don't have time to really play the game :(. I guess now that I "get it" I'll at some stage be able to play with a faster blade, I'm, not sure when and don't think it'll be within the next couple of years
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I'll say something similar to what Bluebucket said, only about my level and the type of stuff I was using. But I'll speak more to the average player as my level is only average and not near 2200. I currently hold a rating of 1635 usatt, and feel like I go 50/50 with guys between 1700 and 1800. Based on my performance during the time of acheiving this rating, and how I play the majority of the time, I'd say I'm slightly under rated, and 8 out of 10 times I beat someone who is under 1700 pretty comfortably, 1 out of 10 it's a battle, and 1 out of 10 I lose. This ranges a lot of different styles, and is based on tournament results more than the relaxing club environment. I began with carbon despite being told it was a bad Idea. It was a slow one though- VSG-4000. It had no feeling for the ball, but i thought it was a good thing. I used it with srivers, and it was my first blade. from 0-1200 or so. All I knew were ugly shells of basic strokes and the art of concrete feet. I switched blades and had a huge change of Hurricane King with chinese rubber and max thickness japanese rubber on BH. Reason for change: Idolizing of chinese players and want for more SPEEEED. I THOUGHT I was 1500 or so at the time, but in hindsight i still probably never climbed over 1350ish. I played all out FH dominant offense (tried to) the main pattern through my deveopment is that I thought I was better than i really was, until i really started playing lots of tournaments and getting humbled a bunch of times. I feel like the attitude of understanding how good i really was helped me get better faster. While I thought I was 1500, i never got that good. Then when I got near that good, I always thought I was 1600. It was a year later than that that I was consistently beating 1600 players, and finally realized I wasn't that good before. After the Hurricane King, I started using a Clipper CR which was FAST being 99g. I also started speedgluing. Maybe got as good as 1500. I used short pips on my BH during this period. Reason for change here- I wanted more speed again, and again thought it was the cool blade to switch to. This blade took me to 1600. I never really talked about it, but I went back to trying a carbon blade. This was the first time my game actually fell. It was a cheap fast LKT carbon blade, and i used it for 3 months. I lost a lot more than usual and scrapped it. Switched to a Clipper WRB and started getting a fair bit better, getting an increased feel for the ball, and focusing on contact, watching the ball, and movement. I switched because my old clipper broke (since fixed). This one had more control, and I got into one of those rapid improvement phases. Maybe not overall, but I started focusing on more important things as I started to really understand the game more. My understanding improved a lot. I used each clipper for a year a piece. Now I'm into 5-ply blades, and feel that I'm getting the speed from my technique, and the control and flex of the blade is nothing but rewarding me. I don't feel like I'm winning less points because of the lack of speed, but I am winning more points due to extra spin, and more consistency. I'm getting the same pace because I'm hitting harder. But there is more spin on the ball, and I'm feeling the ball much better. Extra confidence in my equpiment really makes me play better, not the equipment itself. Even though I had confidence with clippers, the confidence in my shots now reminds me of when I played all out FH with the HK- I just don't feel like I can miss if I'm swinging hard. I'm seeing the ball better because I'm not worrying about each individual shot, I'm not even thinking about that all of a sudden. I'm actually focused and paying attention to what's going on with the ball because I'm not worried about my shot going on or coming down. That's automatic because the confidence is there. I feel like it will only be a couple more months and I can raise my game a lot more, granted i can get continuous play from people better than me. My short term goal for the next 4 months is to break 1800. I feel like I can already play there, it's just a matter of making it consistent. There is a kid at my old club who out of nowhere over the summer got really good, and while I used to beat him 4-1 and 4-0 a lot before last summer, he now beats me a lot. another year or two and he'll be the best in the state. I've beaten him once since summer, and i've played him maybe 7 times. I also noticed (although not accrediting it to) the 5-ply he was using compared to the Schlager Carbon or countless other fast blades he used to use. I truly think that you should stick to those slow wood blades if you want to develop a good feel and technique before worrying about anything crazier. speed is more important at the top level, because everyone reads spin and deals with it automatically. Spin and consistency is more important to me everywhere else, because it will beat out speed all the time. Until you get really good, then it cannot. That's why you start by getting that down first.
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In spite of all of my ALL / ALL+ / OFF- bias, I do think that OFF Carbon blades have their place. (note that I did not say OFF+, as I think Carbon OFF+ are curiosities). The players that seem to derive the most benefit (points won vs. unforced errors) from the larger sweetspot, decreased feel and increased speed to weight ratio of carbon blades seem to fall into two categories. 1) Casual Club Vet (US1500-1700 range) This player has been playing for a decade if not more, only plays once a week and has decent but not super refined strokes. They mostly counterhit, block, smash and occasionally loop. The blade is a perfect fit because they already have good touch, enjoy the extra speed and sweetspot and don't have any formal aspirations for improving (i.e. no training plan). 2) Former cadet, returning to play (US1800-2000 range) This player was very good when young, practiced and trained with coach. He or she loops from both wings and plays mid-distance. The game is more recreational than competitive to him or her. This player already has all of the fundamentals, is not disturbed by the lack of feel because they can read spin intuitively and don't need all-wood to tell their hand what is going on. Looping is not negatively impacted because they already have good footwork and timing. 3) Developing Junior with full time coaching and 20+ hours a week training (US??? too variable to judge) This player is small and young, benefits from the increased speed of carbon and has a set of eyes on his game at all time helping him make small adjustments to technique. These are the obvious folk who benefit from carbon's strengths; but I see many specialized players (mostly blockers and counterhitters US1200-1600) who choose it as well, and I can't help but wonder if the blade actually informs their style or compliments it. ------------- http://bit.ly/vLMhuB" rel="nofollow - - RC1042 . OSP Virtuoso AC: PK50 + R42 |
wow, my hope that this thread would get some thoughtful insight is being richly fulfilled. beeray1 and bluebucket, I really enjoyed reading the histories of your journeys (I will enjoying re-reading them too). ... I'm absorbing everything and thinking it over. Hopefully more members will share their journey and perspective on this issue. ------------- Appelgren Allplay ST / Vega Europe max |
Well, this discussion has provoked me to order a Yasaka Extra. I asked for it in 84-86 grams. I will dedicate some time to it. Right now nearly every rubber I have lying around is in max sponge, but I might order some sheets of 2008xp in 1.8mm, or maybe CJ8000c on 1.8quattro sponge, or IQUL in 1.8mm. I might also transfer my vega pro and europe to it (also have some used red diamond/black power, moon 38 deg, etc I could experiment with). I may really have to grimace and bear with it if it feels very flexible... I have never cared for that feeling in a blade. The stroke I'm working on most right now is the brush loop. The issue I'm working on most is footwork. So often when I put the ball into the net the instant replay in my head reveals that I was leaning forward and stretching out because I stayed in concrete. Similarly, so often when I send the loop/hit a little long I also realize I'm on my heels and leaning back.... a common inner thought I have in these two scenarios is "DUH" as I realize how I ruined the trajectory by not getting into place first. Okay, enough about footwork. This Yasaka Extra has a tough challenge ahead of it when it comes to my favor/preference. I have been thrilled with the Z quad and the GTS was my favorite for a couple straight years prior to that. Plus, I haven't even tried the TBS I picked up from Shay yet. The beauty of my current opportunity being deployed is that I'm always running into players who want to buy a custom bat (especially after they try one) so I don't have to fret much about having so many blades on hand at the moment. The PX here actually sells two paddles... a $7 Sportcraft and if you really want to be luxurious: a $10 Sportcraft ------------- Appelgren Allplay ST / Vega Europe max |
(84 gram Yasaka Extra received moments ago. IQUL hasn't arrived yet so I'll probably try my sheets of V Pro and V Europe on it. Also thinking about ordering a BBC All Around) Here's a thought for the continuation of this discussion: Let's say a given player is currently USATT 1200. This person has no intention of gaining any income from the sport of Table Tennis, but simply wants to enjoy the game, practicing a few times a week, and achieve a higher rating. Now let's say that this player would reach 1800 in 5 years using an ALL blade. Let's suppose that this player would only reach 1700 using a Primorac Carbon. We might want to draw the conclusion that the player should obviously choose the ALL blade, right? But what if the player hates the feeling/feedback of that ALL blade, but loves the feeling/feedback of the Primorac Carbon. Since this player never intends to go Pro, and only wants to enjoy the sport and be competitive, is there anything wrong with sacrificing 100 rating pts if you enjoy the game much more? Many of us have probably gathered at this forum because we're detail fanatics wanting the best results. But when a casual to semi-serious player asks for equipment advice, perhaps we might consider what he/she would enjoy playing with. I hope to reach 1800 within the next few years. If you had calculations and personal experience which reasonably estimated that I would reach it sooner if I switched to a DEF blade and started chopping more, I'd say "thanks, but no thanks". Because I wouldn't enjoy the game. Just food for thought. ------------- Appelgren Allplay ST / Vega Europe max |
Lock those carbons up where you can't touch them and use the Yasaka Extra exclusively for 3 months then get back to this thread :) you will have a whole new perspective on life and you will have learnt to appreciate the feel of the blade and you wont want to deal with the Carbons any more. You just need to have faith in this :). I think you overestimate how much slower you will play with the Extra, 3 months from now you will be hitting the ball with more pace than you ever did with the carbons |
Yup. I know a US1500 player (close to table FH counterhitter, BH medium pips blocker) who won't part with his Primorac Carbon for exactly the reason you describe. He's put more than 10 years in with that blade and is uncomfortable playing with anything much slower. In that time his strokes got progressively smaller down to just a weight transfer and a wrist flick (to keep the ball on the table) and the range of players he wins and loses to (US1200-US1700) stayed about the same. The loss of speed glue hurt his game pretty badly, as he no longer has the softness and extra spin to tame that paddle. But he loves the blade because against higher rated players, he is able to attack their loops off the block with minimal motion and maximum effect. He does his best against controlled topspin attackers. The blade hurts him against people who play a flatter game with less spin because he is forced to create the topspin, and as I mentioned, his spin production is mostly wrist (and therefore inconsistent). A blade should fit your style, your goals and your tactics. ------------- http://bit.ly/vLMhuB" rel="nofollow - - RC1042 . OSP Virtuoso AC: PK50 + R42 |
This thread is deterring me from trying a carbon blade for the first time and just ordering another Extra to use as a secondary setup. ------------- Donic Persson Powerplay Tenergy 80-FX Donic Acuda P2 |
goodness bluebucket, are you purporting a spiritual experience here? ------------- Appelgren Allplay ST / Vega Europe max |
Nathan, if any player is in it purely for fun, hitting with a Grubba DEF and superglued 729 is fine and fine. It just doesn't matter.
As for the ones who emphatically state one needs ALL class speed in racket and classic rubbers, I got notthing against that arguement, especially if it comes from respected coaches who know the game and have been around it all their life.
I can tell you this. (Yes Nathan, YOU qualify to be in this group (who could train using ANYTHING and shoot up in level) for positive reasons of course) Coaches here in even the average Korean clubs are 90% former elite players or damed close. They know their stuff and do not give a crap whether the blade is rated speed OFF+ or ALL. They teach and drill fundementals and concepts to get the player's basics solid. Players build good strokes and learn to do it with whatever they got. Most players take 3 lessons a week. After 1 or 1-1/2 years of these lessons, a good chunk of them have already cracked 1700 or 1800 USATT playing level. That includes those using Schlager carbon, Primorac carbon, TBS, Amulart, Xiom ALL blades and you name it. Many coaches do not strongly encourage the players to finalize their blade selection until they get solid basics and have discovered their preferred playing style. Coaches more and more are recommending to just go to shakehand, but they teach C-Pen RPB and J-Pen as well.
Anyone want to argue that a defensive player has no business instructing and training an OFFENSIVE style player? Soemone can try to take a shot at my coach, who was a modern defender on a pro team. SHE, yes a woman, she has gotten me to get a LOT faster laterally, make more positive strokes, move better, become more CONSISTANT, make combinations, and RALLY. All of which were prolly entirely missing from my game 2 yrs ago before I got here. This coach simply knows how to coach and train ANYONE who is willing to listen and put in the reps.
These players who get coached after a year or more do not hit long because their blade is OFF+, they do it because they did not close the blade enough on the block, misread the spin, or swung to much upwards. The same level players (Div 4) make pretty much the same stuff wrong and it is not the equipment at that stage.
I see the importance of learning to hit through the ball, make a proper crouch, footwork, recover, etc. Coach gets everyone to understand that. maybe the arguement against using faster blades applies more to ones who NEVER will get any coaching. Maybe what most say about developing too short strokesto their detriment and lack of development applies to that crowd. I can buy that.
The wife of our top player started out a couple years ago at maybe USATT 400 level. After 1.5 years of training with Schlager Carbon equipped with Yasaka Extend HS, she is now settled in on a BTY Amulart with Extend HS and Extend Short Pips on BH. She is prolly now 1500-1600 USATT and rising fast. Once she gets more reps and reads spin better, she will approach 2000 easily. That is not an unusual story here, but the majority of course do not develop this fast.
However, a LOT of that crowd who doesn't get coaching (like 80-90%) of that crowd will play TT for years and never crack 1600 USATT, many never get to 1500 USATT. I used to be in that crowd. (Anyone who wants to quote my official (over 2 yrs old BEFORE 18 months of lessons here) 1600s rating will be in for a surprise)
To be fair, over 1/2 the crowd who gets lessons don't really make it div 3 Seoul (City, NOT National) level (1900-2200 USATT), although a number excell and make it to a high level later.
From the blades I see at club play and tourneys, (EXCLUDING the DIEHARD Hinoki 1 ply J-Pen Crowd) I would say 80% or more use carbon or composite blades.
That is not a knock on them or their coach. ------------- Korea Foreign Table Tennis Club Search for us on Facebook: koreaforeignttc |
OH, forgot to include that whenever I have tested slower NEXY blades (slower than my favored TBS), used those slower blades for a few months, then gone back to TBS... Whenever I do that, my game seems to improve and maintain that level.
Also, Using Spartacus, which is a notch slower in speed compared to TBS, AND by coincidence has a layer of carbon on each side, I am playing my best TT ever. Maybe by coincidence, I have lost 8 Big-Macs from my waistline. That can make anyone faster and better. Still, a good stroke from the Lissom/Spartacus carries a lot of "Kick" that is destructive.
I can use my own personal examples of "going with slower blades is better" to support the current arguements, but I really feel that for most players learning the game under USATT 1700-1800 level, it is MUCH more important to learn solid strokes/movement/footwork/connecting shots. The equipment used at that stage is in my crappy opinion is not as much a factor as the learning of solid fundamentals is. ------------- Korea Foreign Table Tennis Club Search for us on Facebook: koreaforeignttc |
With proper coaching, any blade/rubber combination will help you develop your game. Off course, a proper coach would also advice you on using a suitable blade.
The risk with using a carbon blade (or any blade that is to fast) is that you will learn to play reactive instead of active. Meaning, you might develop good skills at getting the ball back, but you will have a hard time controlling the game, as you simply won't be able to control your set up when you attack. I know this, as this is pretty much what I did To determine if a blade is too fast for you is actually pretty easy, if you get the chance to attack, or are in a rally, and you have to hold back on the power, then the blade is too fast for you. You should always be able to attack with full power (even though you might chose not to) and feel fairly comfortable that your shot will land. As for the pre-made discussion, I would be utterly surprised if a pre-made was a good pick for any one who is serious about the game, regardless of their level. Once they grow out of the pre-made and needs a real blade, they will have to re-learn everything again, as pre-mades are very different to custoum build bats. Not saying you can't reach 1800 with a pre-made, but I'm pretty sure that if one player reaches 1800 with a pre-made, and another player reaches it with a custoum made bat, the one with the custoum made bat will have a much easier time to continue to climb the ratings. So, why start with something that you know will limit you in the end? Besides, you can get pretty good custoum made bats for the same price as a decent pre-made. Actually, I can get it a lot cheaper, a good custoum made bat (Tulpe allround blade, tulpe 007 rubbers) costs less then half of what a "good" pre-made costs, and plays a heck of a lot better. ------------- The holy grail |
well said Speedplay, all of it an update from my end: I'm mailing the YE back today because it was oddly asymmetric (5mm wider on one side)... however, I ordered a BBC All Around yesterday; 84 grams, flared, Attack II shape.... really looking forward to it. At this point I'm planning on putting 1.8 IQUL sv on it (both sides)... wondering how different this will feel from from Xiom setup. ... also tempted by the OSP Expert and the TG3neo/SharkII bits of advice. ------------- Appelgren Allplay ST / Vega Europe max |
Thanks for the compliment. Hopefully from the last deployment till now I've somewhat learned to harness my athleticism and not move so wildly about. I think I'm slowly learning when to conserve energy and when to explode. I used to always look for the ball I could smash regardless if I would have to be taken way out of position in my reckless follow through. Now I trade some of that for a topspin loop than leaves me planted if the ball comes back. Sure hope one of these days will be in the same AO so we can have a hit! Hopefully I'll have the GTS with me for memory's sake. It's on my very short list of "can't let go of blades"... especially since the handle is so rare. ------------- Appelgren Allplay ST / Vega Europe max |
Please do report about how it plays, after you tested it. Charlie makes some very high quality blades. I have a fiddler with thin core waiting to be tested... ------------- Nexy Arche & Nittaku Violin LG. Join the forum_posts.asp?TID=47778" rel="nofollow - Nexy Clan ! Also member of Violin & 1-Ply clans. |
Yes I'll definitely write something up here. It will be the first blade I've tried from Charlie. As a sidebar: right now I don't have my Xiom setup put together so I grabbed my Galaxy N-7 w/ Merc II 33 deg 2.2mm and went to play for a couple hours.... . Wow, I can't believe I used to think that it had decent feel. Felt ultra head heavy (I think the N-7 is 89 grams) and like I was bouncing a balloon against the ball. I think I would've taken 10 bucks for it if someone offered. This experience furthered my desire to give thinner sponge a chance. ------------- Appelgren Allplay ST / Vega Europe max |
I wanted to resurrect this thread because I think the content is rich and there's more to be said. I just read through it again and absorbed things I didn't before. Since the time I started this discussion, I've stepped down from Zetro Quad (OFF+) and Vegas (Max sponge) to Xiom V1 (OFF) and TG3neo/Shark II. The overall speed of my setup has gone down (some), and my confidence in my forehand loop has gone up. I tested three different BBC All Arounds and enjoyed all of them but none quite had the fit I wanted. I was astounded at the quality of craftmanship that can be had for $35 (search for my threads on those if you don't believe). Not finding the ergonomics and balance I preferred, I passed them on to three different players who were very pleased! (I do miss them... they were beautiful ) I'm still very much tempted to get a quality ALL+ blade; and might end up ordering an OSP Expert after all. I'm also very drawn to other BBC blades (Fiddler, 9-10-9, Cypress 3 ply). So let's see what others have to say in this matter... ------------- Appelgren Allplay ST / Vega Europe max |
Playing with Donic Protec All+ with 2008 XP 1.5 and 729 FX 1.8 is like abiding in perpetual anuttara-samyak sambodhi or in the eternal bliss of nirupadhisesa nirvana.
Amen!
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Imago show me this protec blade you spec of |
may i ask what happened to your FH loop with V1? do you not like your current set up? ------------- Viscaria FH: Tenergy 05 black BH: Tenergy 05 red |
could you tell us what these two blades are; how flexible and how hard they are; and what are your current rubbers? (because the overall blade speed depends on them) ------------- pg5x - mxd fh & bh - https://youtu.be/dBMqj0CN7XU" rel="nofollow - 2015 video |
First blade is the Expert, the one I might change to is a custom made blade. My current rubbers are TG3 2.15mm and Acuda S2 2.0mm. Both the Expert and the custom blade are very similar, both 5.3mm, same head shape, the custom is slightly lighter around 90grams, same balance, just the plys themselves are a little bit difference thicknesses. Both blades are hard feel and high flex |
Carbon is better for speed and flat hitting, that is pretty simple the way I see it. If you have quick reflexes that is all you need if you have the skills to be in the right place at the right time with your feet too. ------------- Grubba Variant ALL fh: Hurricane 38 degrees MAX bh: tensor MAX https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TQgNPkpILsg&list=PL9V-XUSPJgk-loYl2zRhQZ29lsAK7tdLX" rel="nofollow - Watch me playing TT |
which brings me to answering the second question: I do like my current set up very well, and in the past month have played a few of the best games of my life. but, I'm recognizing that a further decrease in speed could add even more confidence to put 100% into certain strokes. and as I read bluebucket's commentary on no longer having to focus so much on making the shot, and having the time and confidence to quickly anazlyze the best choice for placement, I'm realizing that I could benefit in the same way. I have much more confidence with V1/TG3/Sharksoft than ZQuad/Vegas, but so much of my mental energy is spent worrying about the stroke, that I give little thought to placement and opponent position. ------------- Appelgren Allplay ST / Vega Europe max |
but so much of my mental energy is spent worrying about the stroke, that I give little thought to placement and opponent position. better said: "so much of my mental energy is spent concentrating on the stroke..." ------------- Appelgren Allplay ST / Vega Europe max |
Here you are
http://www.almartt.com/productos/madera-protec-allround_gr.jpg - http://www.almartt.com/productos/madera-protec-allround_gr.jpg
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bumping this thread back up as I continue on this journey... I passed the Xiom V1 on to a friend who's loving it (and now beating me with it ... ) More and more I'm seeing the light regarding slower setups. I really like the Burn OFF- and ALL+, and I also decided to hang onto this most recent W-6 I tested. My most recent love though, is for this BBC 9-10-9... which kind of falls in the middle of the spectrum being discussed in this thread. Xiom V1 was a great blade though... ------------- Appelgren Allplay ST / Vega Europe max |
Bahaha. Yes.. yes I have. the Xiom V1 is certainly my favorite weapon right now. =D It is a very fast blade relative to my other options (Donic Burn Off- , All+) and the hits are very rewarding. ------------- XIOM V1 - TG3NEO / SHARK II |
friends, we call all rest easy. i have found the best blade in both categories (sure, there are a thousand blades I haven't tried, but these two have impressed me to the point that I have no need to EJ anymore.... now's your chance debraj ) I sincerely hope that more members read this thread and mull it over. I have benefitted greatly from going to slower and more flexible blades (I just had to get over my bias and assumption that they would all have annoying vibrations/feedback) BBC 9-10-9 and OSP Expert... I win! (the EJ game, that is) ------------- Appelgren Allplay ST / Vega Europe max |
Bumping this thread up as I feel this is a very useful thread. One of the best ever. |
I agree and I hope more people read it. bluebucket and others really brought me to the light on this issue.
hey looky there... 4 months later and I still feel the same not changing feelings about blades over the course of 4 months might put me in a minority on this forum ------------- Appelgren Allplay ST / Vega Europe max |
I have not changed in a while from my Yasaka Extra and I have certainly improved. I think one point to also note is to find a blade that you like and stick with it. ------------- Photino FL Yasaka Rising Dragon Short Pips |
Sometimes it is hard for someone to keep the same bat for years because the setup may become boring for them and the urge to EJ becomes stronger. |
I thought I might add my 2 cents to this thread... I have no idea about my ratings but I started playing about 3 1/2 years ago. I did the usual idiot thing a went through a few blades and rubbers quickly progressing from fast to stupid fast to warp 10. I made it out of d-grade but got hammered in c-grade so I gave it up (other influencesas well though). A little over a year ago now a mate got interested in TT so I got back into it. We joined a team comp c-grade level and got hammered a fair bit. I was determined to improve my game so I started to research and learn how to play properly. I soon started to realise that brushing consistently with fast gear was difficult so I switch to ALL gear and started to improve rapidly. By the end of that comp (3 months) I was winning 50% of games. My mate gave up but I continued. During the x-mas break I improved further and was losing only to the top ranked players in this grade. I just finished my final round of the c-grade comp and went 45wins to 3 loses. My team also won the comp outright. My winning power in this grade is basically a function of how consistenly I can produce quality brush loops from either wing. By using ALL rated gear I was able to focus on good clean strokes with less worry about the ball flying off the far end of the table. For reference the same blade was still easily fast enough to hit untouchable winners against high balls.
Also as my game has been relativley consistent I have spent a little bit of EJing with the future in mind. I have tried faster blades and rubbers. A real eye opener the other day was when I tried a Donic Carbotox with and identical setup on my second Aratox. The Carbotox did offer a improvement in speed though surprisingly not much difference till you really started to wind up, but definatley quicker. What blew me away was the spin of the Carbotox, or should I say lack of it. With identical rubbers (brought and delivered at the same time and glued onat the same time) the Carbotox gave only about 50% of the spin of the Aratox. Smashes, loop drives and brush loops where all more like "dead balls" compared to the Aratox. I had a hit against a pips out user and he had little difficulty returning balls off the Carbotox, but balls frombthe Aratox floated out off the table with much more backspin. I never thought such a difference could exsists between similar blades. Now I have a Burn ALL+ (AKA superious-top-e-s-spin-e-s) which is just crazy for looping and an OSP expert in the making. For my its 5ply wood for life! ------------- Blade: Nexy Spartacus FL 84g FH: Evolution FX-P Max Blk BH: Evolution EL-P 1.9 Red |
I think you meant 'bumping'. 'Bumbing' means something quite .
------------- Blade: Darker Speed90 Rubber Fh and Bh DHS Hurricane 3, 39/38deg Delusion is an asset |
lol Thanks, corrected it |
great addition to the thread GoldenDragoon let us know how you like the Expert the burn ALL+ is indeed a good blade... i think it's $32 at tabletennis11.com right now
------------- Appelgren Allplay ST / Vega Europe max |
I got mine from my usual store here.....
http://tabletennisequipment.dandoy-sports.com/en/product_info.php?pName=donic-burn-all&cName=blades Another blade that interested my was the Andro version of the same type. I am a little skeptical though as the Andro site describes the blades feeling as "hard". Nexy has some very intersting stuff too but no anatomic handles which is a huge turn off to me. ------------- Blade: Nexy Spartacus FL 84g FH: Evolution FX-P Max Blk BH: Evolution EL-P 1.9 Red |
... bringing the thread back up from this former carbon only user, i wanted to say I've found yet another fantastic all wood blade. donic defplay senso who knew at this point i own about 28 blades, only two are carbon blades... and if they weren't so good and so special (bbc 9-10-9's) i would let them go ------------- Appelgren Allplay ST / Vega Europe max |
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------------- Appelgren Allplay ST / Vega Europe max |
small addition to topic: story says that Zoran Kalinic, ex world champion in doubles, for whole career have used blade from 3$ premade bat. About my experience, as average amateur player, I can say it's much easier to play with slower setup, and softer rubbers. This is why I dont play with few fancy btty carbon blades, although I have them. ------------- http://stonitenis.rs/equipmentreviews" rel="nofollow - Equipment database Yinhe MC-2 FL fh: Xiom Vega pro bh: Xiom Vega pro Boycott Marcos Freitas for hidden services! |
(editing my inventory again on 2/23/2023) at the moment I have nine composite blades: 4 Xiom Hayabusa Zi ST 2 Donic WSC JO Shape ST 1 Donic True Carbon Inner ST 1 Dawei Wavestone ST 1 Air Wavestone FL and eight all wood blades: 3 BBC All Around ST 1 Hock 3 ply ST 89 grams 1 Yasaka Ma Lin Extra Offensive cpen 1 Dawei R2 ST 1 Dawei Matrix ST 1 Donic Appelgren Allplay ST ------------- Appelgren Allplay ST / Vega Europe max |
So ,what have you done with Defplay Senso? I've played with it and I also think it's a good quality blade but I couldn't accommodate with it. ------------- Xi Enting FH-Aurus Sound BH- Pryde 30 |
Had 2 or 3 of them... passed them on. I think highly of the blade but have moved away from oversized head / flexible blades ------------- Appelgren Allplay ST / Vega Europe max |
Can you rank these in control order please? You know, with the most controls at the top and the least controls at the bottom? Please use controlinos as your units, and show your working. ------------- This was a great signature until I realised it was overrated. |
HAHAHA... ------------- Appelgren Allplay ST / Vega Europe max |
i know for a fact that you don't own an appelgren allplay.
------------- Blade: Nittaku Violin FH: Bluefire M3 Max BH: Bluefire M3 Max Weight: 171 Grams |
You're right. ..A friend just had to have it ------------- Appelgren Allplay ST / Vega Europe max |
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