So, I can't answer, because I don't understand what you're asking.

-pretty much all of them

but as the saying goes "when in doubt, Clipper wood"

also Pg7 was made after Clipper wood

viscaria-TBS-zhang jike - not much difference, which one gives you what is needed

zetro quad-Stradivarius - not much difference, which one gives you what is needed

YEO - how did this one fit in with the others

For serves the blade that gives you the correct feedback is the best one and only you can find this for yourself, no else can be certain they "feel" the serve like you

For loops I would go with the blade that makes the person on the other side of the table make the most errors, but I don't use your rubbers or execute your loops 

also like agenx mentioned the Donic allplay or almost any version pr Persson senso or Waldner senso blades can be a good choice.

well havent seen that happen with any new clippers  recently.. as long as you use decent glue and use a decent gluing techniqeu you should be fine.. i have a 10 year old clipper which has some splinters come off but after that nothing

Equipment is not going to make you a better player by itself and what is more important is that you practice hard with whatever you buy.  You already have an all wood blade and in my view, when one buys equipment, one should make it different enough from what one already has if they are truly trying to see whether or how changing equipment will affect their game.

I have bought over 20 blades, many cheap, some expensive, some second-hand and my favorite blade is one of the cheap, balsa ones from Giant Dragon.  The fast ones were great for smashing but hard to loop with close to the table unless they had soft rubbers on them.

Everytime I have changed blades, my rating has stayed mostly the same.  The only difference is how I feel when using the blades and what kinds of shots I prefer to make and win points with.

I mean, for someone who claims to be able to generate power with your waist and hips, why are you trying only fast blades?  IF dwell time is what you are concerned about, while this is mostly about the rubbers, you should be looking at ALL+/OFF- blades.  Fast blades are usually for players who back up from the table at some point and are forced to win points from there (and this doesn't mean that slower blades can't be used from distance).

In any case, just be sure to test the blades before buying them.    New equipment gets you excited, but it doesn't make you a better player unless you had no equipment to speak of in the first place, or unless you tried out someone's completely different equipment for a while, realized you could do better using it than what you currently have, then ordered it.  Randomly taking opinions on blades will only let you know what other people like, which may be what you like, but which may not be what you like.  My current blade (and I have had a TBS and a Viscaria in my past) is not a blade anyone would have recommended to me.

Seriously, are we skipping the YEO from this discussion because it is so much worse than the other blades, or is there a better reason?

Why not buy a new copy of your current blade?

Case closed.  None of these blades are dwelly.  They may be dwelly relative to faster blades, but if you want dwelly, you really should be looking at one of the Donic Waldner or Appelgren blades or even a Grubba Pro.

A budding chess player hired a coach.  In the first round of a tournament, he played an International Master.  The coach told him, "This player very good.  I played him before.  He will play for a king side attack.  Very strong tactics that will put you under pressure."  The chess player played the IM, faced a king side attack, was hit with a few combinations and lost.

In the next round, the chess player played another chess master.  The coach told him, "Ah, this master very good.  I played him before. He will exchange everything, trade down to an endgame, bore you and grind you down."  The chess player lost, just as his coach virtually prophesied, in a long, drawn out endgame.

In exasperation, the player fired his coach.  The coach was surprised.  The coach said, "How come?  I was always right!"

The player said, "Yes, you were right, but that never helped me win the game!"

Aria has a more crisp feel, less vibration and more predictable.

It seems to do very well with harder rubbers.

I've had very good luck using H3 Pro and Rakza 7.

Used slightly softer rubber like Tin Arc 3 and a much softer rubber like Giant Dragon Tai Chi and didn't like them as much.

few mm are hardly game changing. so i guess big enough will do

I had TSPW and Xiom Aria Lite, both were too stiff, I' not recommend them for loopers. Then I switch to ordinary primorac off- and it was better.

timothy wang uses hurricane now? are you sure? he's been using T05/T64 since forever and his last few major tournaments including the US Open? 

 

Baal is right, see the picture in this link.

 

http://www.flickr.com/photos/ittfworld/9613670090/" rel="nofollow - http://www.flickr.com/photos/ittfworld/9613670090/

 

Clipper is 150 x 157 and Status PW is 158 x 152.

 

I got my information from spinfactory.de. However, there are different measurements that appear on the web, eg. according to tak9.com Clipper is 158 x 150 and Stratus Powerwood is 158 x 151.

 

But in the end, you own a Clipper, so you are the most accurate source. 

probably did it at the advice of Zhou Xin.