Donic bluefire M1 review
Printed From: Alex Table Tennis - MyTableTennis.NET
Category: Equipment
Forum Name: Equipment
Forum Description: Share your experience and discussions about table tennis equipments.
Moderator: haggisv
Assistant Moderators: position available
URL: http://mytabletennis.net/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=63035
Printed Date: 04/28/2024 at 4:43pm
Software Version: Web Wiz Forums 12.01 - http://www.webwizforums.com
Topic: Donic bluefire M1 review
Posted By: seguso
Subject: Donic bluefire M1 review
Date Posted: 10/03/2013 at 9:18am
I finally got to test m1 seriously. :) I tried it a few times previously, but it was too hard and I did not have the skill to use it. So i stuck with m2. But after m2 and mxp started failing me in counterloop (my technique has improved; BTW I am currently n. 260 in my country) I gave it another try, and now I can appreciate its reliability. I will regret saying this but... guys, I think this rubber is final.  I mean, it has everything.So here is my review, which contains comparisons with mxp, t05, m2, and rakza 9. I am reviewing the max version, black and red. (there are differences, see below). ---- Bluefire m1: the ultimate fh rubber for advanced or pro players. Most notable feature: m1 holds up well when you counterloop with a lot of power; when you miss, you know it is your fault; to the contrary, with mxp or m2, often you feel like it was the rubber which did not hold up to the power. Only t05 is as reliable as m1 in this regard. Style of play: rubber only for the forehand of very good (advanced or pro) powerloopers who consistently hit very hard and never need controlled loops. in particular, when you have a dead ball (i.e. a flat ball or a slow block), with m1 you can only1) kill with a powerloop (which will be low over the net; so you need to have the precision); or Comparison with m2 and m3: m2: on fh this is for intermediate loopers, who do not consistently hit with all their power, and need to generate spin in controlled loops with medium power. hardness: for black version: m1 has a hard sponge and hard topsheet. the rubber is harder than t05; harder than mxp; much harder than m2; harder than rakza 9. as hard as dhs rubbers (but faster). --- As a result, the ball won't sink in controlled loops, so you don't get spin in rally with half power. you only get spin when you hit very hard. red version: the red topsheet is softer. the difference with black is quite noticeable. M1 red feels much more similar to Mxp. However, it retains the counterloop reliability of black, and is still more reliable than mxp. Speed: for the black version: much faster than MXP, T05. Much faster than Rakza 9. M2 can be faster at medium power, but is slower in counterloops at full power. red version: red is slower. The difference with black is again very noticeable. M1 red is more or less as fast as MXP. Block: with m1 it can be difficult to block. (because the throw depends a lot on the power of the incoming loop). OTOH, it is meant for the forehand of good players, who never block with fh, but counterloop. :) Loops: the upside: counterloop with m1 is very reliable, whereas rubbers such as m2 and mxp are not. The only rubbers I know which are as realiable as m1 in counterloop are T05, and DHS rubbers. --- The downside is that loops are difficult, because the throw depends a lot on how much the ball sinks, and therefore on the speed of the incoming loop. So you have to pay a lot of attention to the speed of the incoming loop, not only to its spin. (this is different from m2. ) throw angle: low when the ball does not sink in the sponge, medium-high when it does. a bit lower than t05 and mxp. higher than rakza 9. Like m2 but with differences due to hardness. comparison with mxp: m1 is a lot more reliable and consistent at high power. mxp becomes unpredictable counterlooping at high power; with m1, if you miss it's your fault. mxp has slightly higher throw, as I said (but it is of little use, because it seems to randomly flatten at high power). comparison with rakza 9: m1 is similar to rakza 9, but harder, especially the topsheet, faster, and higher throw. compared with m2, m1 is much harder and more reliable in counterloop. m1 works great on clipper wood, a stiff and soft blade. ------------- pg5x - mxd fh & bh - https://youtu.be/dBMqj0CN7XU" rel="nofollow - 2015 video |
Replies:
Posted By: mhnh007
Date Posted: 10/03/2013 at 10:56am
I can not play the M1 with clipper at all. The throw is too low, and when I try to clear the net, ball usually goes off the table  . I play ok if I play far away from the table, but clipper is better close to the table imo. I like m1 on HK, or TB ALC, it's still a little too fast, specially after the rubber is a month old, but by that time I kind of get used to the speed LOL. |
Posted By: t64t64t64
Date Posted: 10/04/2013 at 7:30am
|
I have a m1 on a Primorac Carbon FH,when i loop kill and i hit you i can make the ball penetrate youself and get out from your back :) This is how powerful is this rubber, on my last training i broke around 8 balls, (tibhar basic) I am wondering what will happend if i tune it with 2-3 layers of my falco long booster . Incredible rubber,much better than tenergy 05 & 64 on FH. i am talkin about not tuned ,i dont concern about how much it weight.i can play with any paddle at any grams ------------- http://mytabletennis.net/forum/forum_posts.asp?TID=61764&PID=734709 |
Posted By: haggisv
Date Posted: 10/04/2013 at 7:46am
Great review seguso!  ------------- Smart; VS>401, Dtecs OX http://tabletennisshop.com.au/index.php?main_page=page&id=42" rel="nofollow - Tenergy Alternatives | http://tabletennis-reviews.com" rel="nofollow - My TT Articles |
Posted By: seguso
Date Posted: 10/04/2013 at 10:21am
|
Thanks. I've updated the review to better highlight the differences between black and red, which are unfortunately quite noticeable. Red is softer and slower, and not by little. Fortunately, it is equally reliable in counterloop. ------------- pg5x - mxd fh & bh - https://youtu.be/dBMqj0CN7XU" rel="nofollow - 2015 video |
Posted By: peter79
Date Posted: 10/04/2013 at 12:50pm
|
Seguso, which thickness of M1 are you using? 2.0 or Max? I tried my friend's M2 on Viscaria, it's pretty good... ------------- Andro Wanokiwami AO Offensive 83 gr H3 National Orange 40 deg 2.2 Baracuda Max 182 Gr |
Posted By: NextLevel
Date Posted: 10/04/2013 at 1:13pm
|
Seguso, Wait until the booster wears off ;). ------------- https://youtu.be/jhO4K_yFhh8?t=115" rel="nofollow - I like putting heavy topspin on the ball... Cybershape Carbon FH/BH: H3P 41D. Lumberjack TT, not for lovers of beautiful strokes. No time to train... |
Posted By: seguso
Date Posted: 10/04/2013 at 4:03pm
|
@peter79: Sorry, I am using max. my rule of thumb: 2.0 on fh if you are just starting counterloop close to table. 2.0 on bh if you are starting banana flip. But after 6 months tops, go max. @nextLevel: This is puzzling: my black m1 is one month used, and has been open for 4 months. It is now still fast; slower than when it was new, but still fast. How fast? A bit faster than my new red m1! (Opened two days ago.) Also, I have another red m1, bought used, which is incredibly slow, like a H3 untuned. It is hard to find a logic in this. It seems the black rubber is faster and more long-lasting. ------------- pg5x - mxd fh & bh - https://youtu.be/dBMqj0CN7XU" rel="nofollow - 2015 video |
Posted By: peter79
Date Posted: 10/05/2013 at 12:17am
I tried my friend M2, it's not Max, probably 2.0 He use 3 layer of Finezip, so the sponge feel is very solid, not mushy. For me 2.0 is already good, it has dwell, if I max I afraid, I can't feel the ball because it's too thick. ------------- Andro Wanokiwami AO Offensive 83 gr H3 National Orange 40 deg 2.2 Baracuda Max 182 Gr |
seguso wrote:Posted By: Carryboy
Date Posted: 10/05/2013 at 1:33am
|
seguso have you tried JP 01, if you have could you make a comparison between M1. ------------- Spin Master Carbo Power (Stefan Elsner Custom) Donic Acuda S1 Max Donic Acuda P1 Blue Max |
Posted By: seguso
Date Posted: 10/05/2013 at 2:20am
not yet sorry. maybe on bh someday. I read it has lower throw than the bluefires, and less catapult. and the hardness is inbetween m1 and m2. From this description it is difficult to say how it differs from acuda. ------------- pg5x - mxd fh & bh - https://youtu.be/dBMqj0CN7XU" rel="nofollow - 2015 video |
Posted By: Nasche
Date Posted: 05/03/2016 at 6:00pm
Seguso, you can also hit. I found M1 is an outstanding hitting rubber. I was away from table tennis for almost 20 years and despite being a jpen player earlier I play most shakehand nowadays, but last weekend we had a tournament in my club so I turned to my one ply hinoki blade with M1 because I still can play better with a jpen even without practicing with it. The M1 felt really great and I could frequently hit opening loops and attack dead balls with consistency over the table. It's a very good looping rubber from mid to long distance, but you can also hit without much brushing when close to the table. I don't feel like I get a lot of spin from this rubber just brushing the ball without getting the sponge to work, so I found it safer to drive/hit hard than brush loop when close to the table. I still don't have my strokes and my time back, but I was able to win my four matches putting pressure on my opponents all the time.
|