I know it would do it but have you done it ? or is it pretuned hence the neo !

ooakforum wrote: Q: Is the glue-like transparent layer on the NEO sponge a tuning layer to act like speed glue? A: No, the glue-like transparent layer on the NEO sponge is not a tuning glue layer unlike some other rubbers. It is only a protection layer.

from http://ooakforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=44&t=11032" rel="nofollow - http://ooakforum.com/viewtopic.php?f=44&t=11032

That said I currently use the commercial 2.15 version from Paddle Palace because they have the freshest batch of rubbers (serial PADXG [July '14 or later] compared to other retailers that are sitting on stock from 2012 or 2013) as the newest official DHS distributor.  It is an unspoken understanding that H3 NEO of any level and the majority of chinese rubbers must be tuned to play a high level offensive game.

I tune my H3 NEO with 5-7 layers (5 for 2.2, 6 for 2.15, 7 for 2.1) depending on the sponge thickness and push it to the maximum legal limit to get the most out of it.  If tuned well, all the versions of H3 play well and similarly with biggest difference being the topsheet tackiness and humidity resistance between commercial, provincial, and national.  My favorite is the provincial 2.10 version from my old club in NY, but I save those sheets for the big tournaments .  

Thanks that helps a lot  !

Do you use Dianchi? Falco or something else?

As far as cleaning goes, I stick to just breath and palm/forearm wipe.  The oils from your hand and the sweat from your body does a good job of taking care of it.  I never use water, cleaners, or protection sheets.  

Humidity is your enemy in table tennis, so I don't like the idea of wetting anything more than I need to, and on top of that I learned early on if you don't have a soft/pure water source your rubber will cloud up from mineral deposits pretty quickly and lose its tack.

Cleaners work in the short term but alter your rubbers over time because most are oil/alcohol/ammonia based.  Those trace amounts of liquids will be absorbed by the topsheet overtime with unpredictable effects from sheet to sheet.

Lastly I was advised against using protection sheets by a couple of my coaches because it's better to allow the rubber to get acclimated to the climate its in.  After a month of trying that, I realized they were right and I could notice an improvement in tackiness.  Just putting your blade in a case is enough, as evidenced by many national-level players.  If you watch full matches, at the end of the match all chinese players simply put their blades in their cases without any sort of protection sleeves.  

**an extra little trick shown to me by Shao Yu was to leave a sack of a desiccant of your choice in your paddle case (or directly on top of pips if you have them, may be overkill for smooth rubber) to absorb as much extra moisture as possible to keep things grippy!**

I have commercial hurricane 3 neo on nearly all of blades nowadays and the methods I've been using have kept them in great condition even after a month of use!

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However, I eventually switched to NEO because the quality control on the old sheets was horrendous and the topsheet would separate itself from the sponge for no reason at all, sometimes even before I started boosting them!  And as my game improved, I began engaging the sponge and driving loop driving more frequently instead of brush looping all the time and realized NEO was much more powerful and elastic than the classic sponge and allowed for longer dwell/more spin.  Also after a certain point, DHS had switched the classic topsheets to the NEO topsheet as well so there really wasn't an advantage to using the classic rubbers anymore.

But yes I think that is the consensus about hard tacky rubber behavior.  Although the amount of power you would need to achieve the same speed with an unboosted chinese rubber is slightly unrealistic for most intents and purposes...

And see a lot of claims the national version many online sites sell are not genuine/fake. Why???

Someone in the know needs to spill the secrets....lol 

chop4ever, what are you boosting with?

What happened to you using skyline 2 neo? :)) Anyways, what is the hardness of h3neo that you use? and how often do you reboost your rubber? and what is the limit, no of times, of reboosting?

the h3neo I use is the standard 39deg and I reboost maybe once or twice over the life-span of the rubber.  Usually a couple days before a tournament, otherwise every two weeks or so.  I continue boosting with the same sheet until the rubber cannot expand anymore/fit my blade, then I switch to a new one.

What's the typical lifespan of the rubber with boosting? :) and how many layers do you put for reboosting? Does reboosting gets you that phenomenon of the pips showing through the topsheet (like with the initial boosting) ? :)

It could be that 41deg hurricane becomes difficult to use properly once it loses its tuning because it is so hard.  And while Falco Long does seem to hold its effect longer than other boosters, I think 2 weeks is probably as long as it goes before a noticeable drop in performance and the elastic boosted feel begins to wear off.  Do you have the same problem with a softer version (39/40)?  

You might also consider applying even thinner layers when you boost and waiting twice as long as you'd normally think to wait between layers.  If you use layers that aren't thin enough or do not wait long enough between applications, you risk clogging the sponge's inner pores with wet booster that won't dry properly (even if the sponge surface appears dry) which will perform poorly/bubble quickly.

edit:  I also think sticking with commercial H3 NEO is still a good deal compared to using most other rubbers.  As long as you can iron out the tuning aspect of it and assuming you go through a sheet a month, it will still come out cheaper than changing something like tenergy every 2-3 months.  And it also helps that H3 is relatively cheap per sheet in case you damage the rubber.

How long do you wait between each application of layers? 

I have a bottle of kailin on order and I'm planning to do the same. I only have experience with dianchi and falco long.

I usually wait around 20-30 minutes after the first layer, 45-60 minutes after the second, hour and a half for the third, maybe 2-3 hours for the fourth, and overnight on the final layer.  I also noticed moving from NY to CA that the drying time in CA seems to take longer, maybe because of higher humidity because winter doesn't exist here 

And no I don't wait for the rubber to uncurl, I glue it while domed for the juiciest effect!

but since i finished the whole bottle of wbg from dianchi, I've tried revolution 3 wbg and also tear mender.

Out of the three, revolution 3 is the weakest and almost useless on holding the curled rubber.

Glue strength:

dianchi wbg > tear mender >revolution 3 wbg

Nice! We also use the same glue! :) Mine's in 98ml though. What's yours? :)

And the ridges are just a cosmetic inconsistency of the DHS sponges.  I read somewhere on taobao that the sponges with the ridges were cut from an older machine, but does not affect performance in any way.

I played with the speed glued H3 Neo tonight.  I wasn't impressed with the difference.

I don't think Dawei Speed Glue is as good as the tire repair glue.

I haven't felt this problem... But then again I retune around the 2 week mark anyway so maybe it's just a symptom of the rubber losing its boost?

FTL is thick and you want to re-apply when the previous layer is not dry yet.

They drying time varies depending on your area's climate.  FTL I guess is a little different in that the doming occurs some time after the booster has dried, and when it does dome it is significant.  leave the rubber until it is completely dry with 3 layers then try gluing it.

A little hack if you have an abundance of WBG is if you need to reduce the dome or shortcut the drying process, apply a few layers of WBG over the sponge (booster can still be slightly wet if you want) and remove it once the glue has dried, then your sponge should be dry and the dome will recess a little bit.  You can repeat this as many times as you need to control the amount of dome and to shorten drying time if you're really impatient, but the best is still to wait for the booster to dry completely.

Thanks Chop4ever!