First Post! Yasaka Mark V vs. Rising Dragon
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Topic: First Post! Yasaka Mark V vs. Rising Dragon
Posted By: young dude
Subject: First Post! Yasaka Mark V vs. Rising Dragon
Date Posted: 03/28/2017 at 11:43am
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Background: 28 year old male. Played a bit recreationally first couple years in college, where I bought a premade 729 racket with FX FH and Cream BH, on an arylate carbon blade. I haven't played since graduating in 2010, but I'm picking it up a bit again since I have access to a table at work. I play Chinese penhold with a developing RPB that I mainly try to loop with (on BH). Skill wise, I’d say I’m still a beginner, maybe wading into intermediate here and there. I have a good understanding on the strokes, but could probably benefit from further developing them. The styles I’m actively developing into, and find myself comfortable with, are probably all around attacker and eventually two winged looper. Given the age of the racket, and the fact that I think it's a bit fast for me (my forehand loops and drives often go long), I’m trying to get a new setup. On the blade, based on my research, I’m set on the Yasaka Extra (which is now the Sweden Extra I believe), unless I hear other convincing recommendations. I’m torn on the rubber however. Mark V is the tried and true solution for my skill level it seems, but I’m also very interested in the new Yasaka Rising Dragon, which based on subjective measures, seems to trump the Mark V in all aspects including speed, spin, and control. So, given a Yasaka Extra blade, which of the 3 setups below do you recommend, hopefully based on your experience with both the Mark V and the Rising Dragon? Or do you recommend a different setup completely? 1. Mark V 1.8 mm on both FH / BH 2. Rising Dragon 2.0 mm (not max, which is the only other choice), on both FH / BH 3. One of each for FH / BH I can see getting one of each be appealing, but my fear is that I'll find one to be much more suitable than the other. I know that I can just get a new sheet if that's the case, but still. Thank you! |
Replies:
Posted By: ronakvyas86
Date Posted: 03/28/2017 at 12:02pm
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Get Mark V MAX on both sides, stick with them till they wear out. If you play regularly and get some coaching you'll discover your style (looper, blocker/hitter, etc.) and then upgrade your setup accordingly. Good luck. ------------- Yasaka Goiabao 5 CPEN, Donic Baracuda MAX FH & RPB |
Posted By: frogger
Date Posted: 03/28/2017 at 12:06pm
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You can't go wrong with Mark V. Rising Dragon is fine if you can read spin as it will be more reactive to oncoming spin. Mark V is more forgiving in that aspect. Try Mark V 2.0 it is the benchmark for a rubber that is very suitable for your level while giving medium-fast speed and nice control. Coaching is the best advice here...if you can afford it. ------------- Wood Paddle Red side Black side. |
Posted By: young dude
Date Posted: 03/28/2017 at 12:06pm
Appreciate your input! Any reason on the MAX? Isn't a thinner sponge, say 1.8 mm, better for development purposes? I'm afraid MAX will be too fast right away, unless you are implying that MAX is best suited for the Yasaka Swedish Extra blade, which could be slow?
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ronakvyas86 wrote:Posted By: young dude
Date Posted: 03/28/2017 at 12:13pm
Thank you! Seems like Mark V is the way to go. You also recommended thicker than 1.8 mm. As I’ve mentioned in reply above, I thought 1.8 mm is best suited for development purposes, but maybe it could be too slow when paired with the Swedish Extra. Perhaps I’ll get 1.8 FH and 2.0 BH.
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Posted By: frogger
Date Posted: 03/28/2017 at 12:49pm
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If you feel more comfort with 1.8 then go for it. After a few months you will want more speed. Not a big change from 1.8 to 2.0. ------------- Wood Paddle Red side Black side. |
Posted By: ronakvyas86
Date Posted: 03/28/2017 at 2:43pm
Things have changed. New poly ball is larger, heavier, slower and hard to put spin on compared to celluloid balls. You'll need thicker sponge to compensate for that. That's just my opinion. If your gut says 1.8 is better then you should go for it. Mark V isn't an enormously fast rubber. You don't need to worry about sponge thikness (of Mark V) if you want to learn to loop better. ------------- Yasaka Goiabao 5 CPEN, Donic Baracuda MAX FH & RPB |
Posted By: young dude
Date Posted: 03/28/2017 at 4:00pm
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Thank you again everyone. I also posed the same question over at ooakforum, and 2 people there both said to use Rising Dragon for FH, but Mark V for BH. They mentioned that Rising Dragon is less forgiving, but that my technique will be forced to improve to maximize it. But I’m leaning towards Mark V on both FH / BH, because it seems the less “advanced” rubber that will facilitate better stroke development and forgive more mistreatments of shots / counters. |
Posted By: bbkon
Date Posted: 03/29/2017 at 12:33pm
the blade should be forgiving |
Posted By: icontek
Date Posted: 03/30/2017 at 11:08pm
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As someone who spent a few years with mark v and a few months with rising dragon I can tell you that 2.0mm or thicker Mark V makes a lot more sense to learn. Rising dragon is non linear in play, making its power curve less predictable. To boot, rising dragon falls off after the factory tune wears off. The top sheet breaks in and scuffs like old school Chinese rubber, and can wear unevenly depending on your strokes. Ironically, it is not only more expensive but also lower quality than genuine mark v. The Yasaka Extra (blue handle) is formerly the Gatien Extra. It is a great blade to develop a CPEN FH and RPB. It's flexible enough to help generate good spin at any range, and has great control close to the table. ------------- http://bit.ly/vLMhuB" rel="nofollow - - RC1042 . OSP Virtuoso AC: PK50 + R42 |
Posted By: hungry cow
Date Posted: 03/31/2017 at 9:31am
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I would go Mark V in 2.0 both sides. Mark V is a classic can't go wrong rubber that does everything decently well with no weaknesses and is very linear, what you put in you get out without any sort of sudden jumps. I would use 2.0 mm as max might give too much speed and takes away some feel which you want to have as you learn and develop. 1.8 would also work but then you loose a bit of the spin you might want to learn to loop. 2.0 Mark V on a Yasaka Extra is a perfect setup for a more advanced beginner / learning intermediate player developing strokes. Actually a great setup even for more advanced players also so not something you will in any way quickly "outgrow" ------------- 70s Stiga Stellan Bengtsson FH - Mark V 2.0 BH - Donic Bluefire JP 03 2.0 |
Posted By: bbkon
Date Posted: 04/01/2017 at 1:27am
I think you need a thin blade like 5.5mm better than thick slow but there arent many blades around 5.5mm |
Posted By: icontek
Date Posted: 04/02/2017 at 11:46pm
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Btw thickness doesn't usually add speed directly. It adds dwell so you can produce more spin and topspin harder and safer. It makes passive play like pushing or blocking less predictable, but not faster. ------------- http://bit.ly/vLMhuB" rel="nofollow - - RC1042 . OSP Virtuoso AC: PK50 + R42 |
Posted By: JacekGM
Date Posted: 04/03/2017 at 11:54pm
Could you elaborate on how "thickness adds dwell", when talking about blades ?
------------- (1) Juic SBA (Fl, 85 g) with Bluefire JP3 (red max) on FH and 0.6 mm DR N Desperado on BH; (2) Yinhe T7 (Fl, 87 g) with Bluefire M3 (red 2.0) on FH and 0.6 mm 755 on BH. |
Posted By: bbkon
Date Posted: 04/04/2017 at 1:43am
what i meant is that a flexy thinner blade will help to play spinnier shots |
Posted By: IanMcg
Date Posted: 04/04/2017 at 8:31pm
I think icontek is talking about sponge, not blades.
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Posted By: icontek
Date Posted: 04/04/2017 at 10:13pm
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Yep. Sponge thickness. On most rubbers, adding thickness means less control on passive shots and greater sin on active shots. The increased potential topspin means that you can hit harder and faster as long as you use that thicker songs to add topspin. That doesn't however mean that a 2.2mm sheet of 729 super fx is faster than a 1.7mm Tenergy 05 ;) ------------- http://bit.ly/vLMhuB" rel="nofollow - - RC1042 . OSP Virtuoso AC: PK50 + R42 |