Sealing your blade
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Category: Equipment
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Printed Date: 04/28/2024 at 9:04pm
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Topic: Sealing your blade
Posted By: ThePongProfessor
Subject: Sealing your blade
Date Posted: 09/19/2022 at 10:51am
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I realize there are many opinions regarding this. Here is an experiment that I did. ------------- YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/c/ThePongProfessor http://mytabletennis.net/forum/feedback-thepongprofessor_topic69419.html" rel="nofollow - Feedback |
Replies:
Posted By: cole_ely
Date Posted: 09/19/2022 at 3:58pm
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I feel like you're overdoing it. I just barely dampen blades. When it dries you shouldn't even see the sealant. Unless, of course, your goal is to harden the blade ------------- Wavestone St with Illumina 1.9r, defender1.7b Please let me know if I can be of assistance. |
Posted By: ThePongProfessor
Date Posted: 09/19/2022 at 4:20pm
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While I admit to wanting to "provoke" a change in playing properties (hence two layers), the applied layers were really thin, as thin as they can be whilst ensuring that the entire surface is covered. I scraped the sponge quite hard across the surface. ------------- YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/c/ThePongProfessor http://mytabletennis.net/forum/feedback-thepongprofessor_topic69419.html" rel="nofollow - Feedback |
Posted By: Claudiu84
Date Posted: 09/22/2022 at 5:03am
I also use Revolution water based sealant, but in a way that its seal the blade but the rubber is still attach very well, so: I cover the blade with a relatively thin->thick layer of varnish. I let it absorb a little into the wood fiber, then I wipe quickly along the length of the fiber with a nasal napkin or thick Kutchen paper, so that the excess will be well absorbed. I let it dry for 1 hour, then I sand very gentile with 1500-grit sandpaper. The blade remains very smooth, the varnish penetrates superficially into the wood fiber, so it's prevent the water absorption, but the surface remains quite adherent and does not change its properties. The purpose of the abrasive paper is to remove the very fine layer of varnish that is on the surface of the fiber, allowing an even better adhesion (the sanding it may be skipped, depending on the type of surface veneer). |
cole_ely wrote:Posted By: tom
Date Posted: 09/22/2022 at 10:28am
| thanks for the review - I doubt any player would want to do a test like this on their own with the cost of many blades |
Posted By: ThePongProfessor
Date Posted: 09/23/2022 at 2:54am
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I didn't have any difficulties attaching the rubbers to the Revo 3 sealed blade, but yes, if I did, I would lightly sand (and not apply as much next time) ------------- YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/c/ThePongProfessor http://mytabletennis.net/forum/feedback-thepongprofessor_topic69419.html" rel="nofollow - Feedback |
Posted By: ThePongProfessor
Date Posted: 09/23/2022 at 12:18pm
Yeah, so far I have made a staggering $2 off that video  You are welcome to stop by my tip jar at the bottom of my (primitive) website. Proceeds, in one way or other, go towards TT videos/experiments.------------- YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/c/ThePongProfessor http://mytabletennis.net/forum/feedback-thepongprofessor_topic69419.html" rel="nofollow - Feedback |
Posted By: TwiddleDee
Date Posted: 09/27/2022 at 4:08pm
| I used to use Minwax, but changed to Emmett's Good Stuff. I use an old t shirt to apply it to the handle and blade. I put on the first very thin coat, let it dry, and put on one more very thin coat. I have experienced no problems with water based glues adhering the sponge to the blade, and the rubbers peel off very nicely. |
Posted By: ThePongProfessor
Date Posted: 09/28/2022 at 5:41pm
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I RECEIVED A TIP. Thank you !!! ------------- YouTube: https://www.youtube.com/c/ThePongProfessor http://mytabletennis.net/forum/feedback-thepongprofessor_topic69419.html" rel="nofollow - Feedback |
Posted By: Claudiu84
Date Posted: 09/29/2022 at 5:26am
| You're making great videos, and an "staggering $2 " is quite few for the time and effort that you spent on that video. To bad that PayPal has such high fees :( |
Posted By: dingyibvs
Date Posted: 10/07/2022 at 3:11am
I do something very similar. I use a very thin layer of Minwax PU sealant, then use the opposite end of the sponge to quickly absorb any excess. It dries very quickly. After that I use a 1000-grit sand paper and gently run across the blade surface once vertically and once horizontally, then once along the edge where detachment happens most often. The end result is no splinters, much easier to remove rubbers, yet still attaches to the rubber well enough not to separate. No change to playing characteristic that I can feel. ------------- Blade: Hurricane Long 5 (968) FL FH: D09C max BH: D09C max |