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Quick way to Gain 500 Usatt Points!

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walleyeguy7 View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote walleyeguy7 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/03/2010 at 10:15am
everyone who finds these forums starts off too fast. i started with a galaxy k-4 with iqul 40 max on the fh, now i play with a ye and h3. i noticed immediate improvement.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BH-Man Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/03/2010 at 10:55am
Originally posted by Jonan Jonan wrote:

Originally posted by Thot Thot wrote:

I know professional players using all+/off- blades and playing very well, I don't think I need and OFF+ blade.


On the other side of that, virtually all the top players at my club and the sponsored guys I see there play with fast blades and tenergy. Virtually all the guys I see who go to the St.Louis training center use fast Butterfly blades with tenergy. Like lildudejds said "It�s a fairly Butterfly dominated field as long as equipment goes" there. I see a loooot of Amultart blades with the good players here, even the guys who are sponsored by other companies use that setup. I haven't gotten up close to any of the Lindenwood players to see what they use, but that would be the decider for me on this issue, because they are some of the best in the country.

I mean, sure, if you are using an Off+ blade with tenergy on it and you are a 900 rated player and you switch to a All+ setup you could gain 1400 points after 6 months or so of fixing basic technique, but you aren't going to go from 1300 to 1800 because you are slower now, you should already be able to get the ball on the table at 1300.
 
Interesting you mention BTY Armulart and T05. I went to my former club north of Seoul yesterday to visit for an hour dressed in jeans, a polo shirt and running shoes. The owner and club members were in the start of a club tourney and teamed me up on one side. Mind you, I was wearing street clothes and running shoes and didn't have my TT bag with me. The Owner gave me the trainers racket, which was a BTY Armulart with T05 and Yasaka Extend HS. That setup did not feel all that different from my TBS and T05. Same shots landed same percentage. It didn't take me long to get used to T05 and this racket didn't feel all that faster at all. Using the TBS and T05 tonight, I got by a low div 1 player in one match and got him to 10-9 in 5 on the last match. OFF BTY blade and T05 aren't all that bad a setup for an offensive looper.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cole_ely Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/03/2010 at 10:57am
People call me on the phone and ask about these fast carbon blades.  They always say, "I hit very hard."
 
I always reply, "if you really hit very hard you don't NEED a carbon blade."
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BH-Man Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/03/2010 at 11:10am
I bought and traded for half the Galaxy T series and in the end traded or gave them all away. T series fits some players to a T, but I couldn't (probably still can't) handle the bounciness. TBS is certainly it for me for the blade. Now, I can handle either Outlaw or T05 (which I like a LOT better, especially in Humidity) and it now suits me. You hit the power shots with TBS and T05, but it feels like the same speed of say, hitting with a DEF blade and a softish offensive rubber, yet the spin and kick are there with barely enough speed to get it by the opponent. I feel that way and I hit pretty darned hard. My globe 999 on 42 degree quattro that I like on BH feels faster than T05. EDIT: T05 gives me a "middle game" that I didn't have much of before. I keep more slow shots on the table in a difficult position and stay in more rallies, which I have better chances to win.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote popperlocker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/04/2010 at 7:49pm
some nice group info, some of you guys should be writing books. especially monkey, everything you say is gold.. anyway, it's hard to say what equipment is best. but if you're under 1300 rating and physically fit, using tenergy 2.1 doesn't make sense. anyway, there are lots of steps and levels in ping pong. when you reach different steps, your game plan and mindset changes, and you'll think about changing your equipment if need be.
0-1300 - basics learning step
1300-1800 - advance technique
1800-2000 - consistency and refinement
2000-2200 - power and efficiency
2200+ - pro level/super saiyan?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote speedy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/04/2010 at 8:45pm
Originally posted by popperlocker popperlocker wrote:

I've been seeing some young and fit players that are under 40 years of age that are rated 0-1200 usatt, playing with a fast setups. (main culprit being tenergy) A few of these guys make the hard decision and go to a slow setup, and gain 500 points instantly(a week or so) But the other guys stick with their fast setups and many months go by with no improvement. This has been said by others before, I'll say it again, slow setups allow you to return 5x more balls back. All shots, especially looping become much easier.

So to the young guns out there, want to gain 500 points quick? Go to a slow setup. I admit, downgrading, It's a hard thing to do. You see these 2000+ players at the club using fast setups. You want to be like them, hit hard like them. You think sticking it out with a fast setup will eventually pay off. You think you're too good to downgrade, (yeah, i was there) But how are you going to lift a 100lb weight when you can't even lift a 25lb weight?
 
I am switching to slower setup... I am thinking about switching it one more time... shift my speedy down two gears... It's true that you can return more balls; however, don't go to slow that you can't hit pass anyone anymore.
 
I will not be "Speedy" anymore after 2 years... I might have to change my nick to "Slowy" LOL
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote stiltt Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/04/2010 at 9:28pm
Originally posted by speedy speedy wrote:

Originally posted by popperlocker popperlocker wrote:

I've been seeing some young and fit players that are under 40 years of age that are rated 0-1200 usatt, playing with a fast setups. (main culprit being tenergy) A few of these guys make the hard decision and go to a slow setup, and gain 500 points instantly(a week or so) But the other guys stick with their fast setups and many months go by with no improvement. This has been said by others before, I'll say it again, slow setups allow you to return 5x more balls back. All shots, especially looping become much easier.

So to the young guns out there, want to gain 500 points quick? Go to a slow setup. I admit, downgrading, It's a hard thing to do. You see these 2000+ players at the club using fast setups. You want to be like them, hit hard like them. You think sticking it out with a fast setup will eventually pay off. You think you're too good to downgrade, (yeah, i was there) But how are you going to lift a 100lb weight when you can't even lift a 25lb weight?
 
I am switching to slower setup... I am thinking about switching it one more time... shift my speedy down two gears... It's true that you can return more balls; however, don't go to slow that you can't hit pass anyone anymore.
 
I will not be "Speedy" anymore after 2 years... I might have to change my nick to "Slowy" LOL
hey speedy
i am no specialist to talk to a player 400 points above me however let me ask a few questions to make things clear:
is there a risk if we go too much down in speed that it gets boring? so if the fun goes away the result might be even worst.
Going too slow for somebody who can do such rocket launching loops like yours is dangerous to a point the interest in the game might sufferConfused.
I can't wait to read what you will say using in order to have at the same time a blade that's 1)fast enough for you to keep the fun intact and 2) slow enough to develop the body work.
a light Photino with a slower rubber? an acoustic with a faster rubber?
bets are open Big%20smile.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JimT Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/04/2010 at 10:03pm
Originally posted by speedy speedy wrote:

Originally posted by popperlocker popperlocker wrote:

I've been seeing some young and fit players that are under 40 years of age that are rated 0-1200 usatt, playing with a fast setups. (main culprit being tenergy) A few of these guys make the hard decision and go to a slow setup, and gain 500 points instantly(a week or so) But the other guys stick with their fast setups and many months go by with no improvement. This has been said by others before, I'll say it again, slow setups allow you to return 5x more balls back. All shots, especially looping become much easier.

So to the young guns out there, want to gain 500 points quick? Go to a slow setup. I admit, downgrading, It's a hard thing to do. You see these 2000+ players at the club using fast setups. You want to be like them, hit hard like them. You think sticking it out with a fast setup will eventually pay off. You think you're too good to downgrade, (yeah, i was there) But how are you going to lift a 100lb weight when you can't even lift a 25lb weight?
 
I am switching to slower setup... I am thinking about switching it one more time... shift my speedy down two gears... It's true that you can return more balls; however, don't go to slow that you can't hit pass anyone anymore.
 
I will not be "Speedy" anymore after 2 years... I might have to change my nick to "Slowy" LOL


According to a friend who talked to the top players in Russia - everyone boosts their rubbers and as one of them commented "I am switching to Grubba ALL+, since I do not need a fast blade anymore. The rubbers (everyone uses) are so fast that they suffice quite well, as long as you know how to hit properly".
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote takaaki Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/05/2010 at 4:53pm
Originally posted by popperlocker popperlocker wrote:

I've been seeing some young and fit players that are under 40 years of age that are rated 0-1200 usatt, playing with a fast setups. (main culprit being tenergy) A few of these guys make the hard decision and go to a slow setup, and gain 500 points instantly(a week or so) But the other guys stick with their fast setups and many months go by with no improvement. This has been said by others before, I'll say it again, slow setups allow you to return 5x more balls back. All shots, especially looping become much easier.

So to the young guns out there, want to gain 500 points quick? Go to a slow setup. I admit, downgrading, It's a hard thing to do. You see these 2000+ players at the club using fast setups. You want to be like them, hit hard like them. You think sticking it out with a fast setup will eventually pay off. You think you're too good to downgrade, (yeah, i was there) But how are you going to lift a 100lb weight when you can't even lift a 25lb weight?


yeah, right, and after you get your "slow setup," you better have deep pockets, cuz you're still gonna need to pull out the big bucks to bribe some of these 2000+ players to dump a few matches...

i mean, let's face it, noobies, if you are U-1200 and you want to be at 2000 by the end of the year, bribery is the only way you're gonna get there in that short amount of time...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote debraj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/05/2010 at 7:31pm
well... as for me it worked for a while, from Yinhe T-8 (fastest) to > T-4 to > Amultart to > Photino(speed 9.4) and then to > 729 V-6(nearly same photino speed) ... but then i took a reverse turn to Innerforce ZLC (speed 9.9) and my accuracy almost instantly improved remarkedly.

And i also realized that this is the thinnest blade i ever played with.

takataaki... i agree with you on rating improvement.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Heimdallalso Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/05/2010 at 9:42pm
Originally posted by takaaki takaaki wrote:

Originally posted by popperlocker popperlocker wrote:

I've been seeing some young and fit players that are under 40 years of age that are rated 0-1200 usatt, playing with a fast setups. (main culprit being tenergy) A few of these guys make the hard decision and go to a slow setup, and gain 500 points instantly(a week or so) But the other guys stick with their fast setups and many months go by with no improvement. This has been said by others before, I'll say it again, slow setups allow you to return 5x more balls back. All shots, especially looping become much easier.

So to the young guns out there, want to gain 500 points quick? Go to a slow setup. I admit, downgrading, It's a hard thing to do. You see these 2000+ players at the club using fast setups. You want to be like them, hit hard like them. You think sticking it out with a fast setup will eventually pay off. You think you're too good to downgrade, (yeah, i was there) But how are you going to lift a 100lb weight when you can't even lift a 25lb weight?


yeah, right, and after you get your "slow setup," you better have deep pockets, cuz you're still gonna need to pull out the big bucks to bribe some of these 2000+ players to dump a few matches...

i mean, let's face it, noobies, if you are U-1200 and you want to be at 2000 by the end of the year, bribery is the only way you're gonna get there in that short amount of time...


I've been meaning to say something along this line too.
Yes some (many) players might benefit from using gear that is more in step with their level but to suggest a 500Censoredpoint increase by doing so is bordering on ludicrous.

You could go from 1200 to 1700 but it will be far more attributable to hard work, tempered by a good coach.
"Right" equipment is a cool third to both of these.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote icontek Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/05/2010 at 11:32pm
I'll concede that under USATT 1500 - slower equipment adds an easy 100 points. I dunno about 500.

As many of you know, Ratingscentral points are tough to earn. Tougher, perhaps than USATT points. Especially if you are playing the same people in your club, rating can trend downward, outpacing your development.

Here's how I bucked the Ratingscentral trend downward:

I have some hard data that would seem to indicate that a combination of hard work and slow equipment has helped me beat higher rated players who cannot control their OFF+ equipment:

Here's my progress since 2006

MY GRAPH 

What I find funny is that each rating SPIKE was a actually just a victory over a player with OFF+ gear:

SPIKE 1
Player 1 used some Donic Carbon and a fast ESN Tensor (F1?)
Player 2 used a Kreanga Carbon, Bryce and Speed Glue
That's 203+ Ratingscentral points I gained from my opponent's hubris.
(I was using an LKT Instinct - not plus - with Globe 999 and Palio Speed Tension).

SPIKE 2
+71 points - My only win that night was against a player using a Nittaku KCZ with Boost both sides. I was (and am) using an Avalox BT550 with a tacky FH and Mendo BH.


SPIKE 3
That's a 67 point gain against a guy who ALSO played with an Avalox BT550 like mine... Except it reeked of the infamous Banana Whiskey smell of Tibhar Rapid Clean Deluxe. Note the date of that match. I guess he figured that it was not USATT sanctioned, so he didn't care. Again, I did this with my BT550. Did he have OFF+ gear? Kind of. Except he could control the Pronte Soaked In Demon Juice because of the blade he used :)


Now I haven't posted links to the 42 point or 50 point gains (Both Primorac Carbons - one with Speedglued Bryce) because I think I'm getting into overkill. Nor have I posted the 2-3 losses I have to people with OFF+ gear; if for no other reason that even with slow gear, sometimes we make tactical errors.

There you have it - all of my big tournament or league wins have come against players using gear that is beyond their level (these players are USATT 1100-1684) and I also think it's telling that highest rated of those players was using an Avalox BT550 (+ speed glue, the bastard :). And I don't think that's a coincidence that he chose slow blade + glue (see other threads that talk about how slow blade + speed glue > fast blade + modern rubber).

So in summation, let's compound everything you've read here with the fact that many folks here have seen my YouTube videos... So they know how how low-level my game is - in terms of stroke technique, movement, and upright posture.

And yet, with placement, spin variation, and basically just putting the ball on the table, I've managed to win a few games that mattered.


p.s.
Heck, half the reason I inspect equipment in the beginning of a match is to figure out how much of a speed junkie my opponent is. If they are using OFF+ gear, there's a good chance I can con them into missing the table A LOT.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote popperlocker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/06/2010 at 12:28am
okay, 0-1200 usatt, gaining 500 is NOT that much! When you play someone under 1700 usatt points. You can do two easy things that will 90% guarantee a win.
Push or Slow loop
Using a control rubber makes these two things much easier!
Obviously, this is not true when you go 1800+
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Heimdallalso Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/06/2010 at 12:48am
Originally posted by popperlocker popperlocker wrote:

okay, 0-1200 usatt, gaining 500 is NOT that much! When you play someone under 1700 usatt points. You can do two easy things that will 90% guarantee a win.
Push or Slow loop
Using a control rubber makes these two things much easier!
Obviously, this is not true when you go 1800+


YOU make the claim that such an advance is available
Originally posted by popperlocker popperlocker wrote:

...and gain 500 points instantly(a week or so)


in a week or so?

NO.
Not if the technique isn't already there.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BMonkey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/06/2010 at 12:54am
Originally posted by popperlocker popperlocker wrote:

okay, 0-1200 usatt, gaining 500 is NOT that much! When you play someone under 1700 usatt points. You can do two easy things that will 90% guarantee a win.
Push or Slow loop
Using a control rubber makes these two things much easier!
Obviously, this is not true when you go 1800+
Man...that's a pretty low opinion you have of people under 1700.Ermm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jonan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/06/2010 at 1:02am
Originally posted by popperlocker popperlocker wrote:

okay, 0-1200 usatt, gaining 500 is NOT that much! When you play someone under 1700 usatt points. You can do two easy things that will 90% guarantee a win.
Push or Slow loop
Using a control rubber makes these two things much easier!
Obviously, this is not true when you go 1800+


...............right, all people under 1700 rating have the same weaknesses and strengths and are all incapable or pushing or blocking slow loops.

This thread is a lot of opinions and no facts, examples, or data.

My experience, using slow setup, couldn't beat people, switched to faster setup, I beat tons of people now who I couldn't from pushing and slow loops, also my pushes are still fine and slow loops are deadlier.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote hungry cow Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/06/2010 at 2:08am
Originally posted by popperlocker popperlocker wrote:

okay, 0-1200 usatt, gaining 500 is NOT that much! When you play someone under 1700 usatt points. You can do two easy things that will 90% guarantee a win.
Push or Slow loop
Using a control rubber makes these two things much easier!
Obviously, this is not true when you go 1800+


This is not true at all against about anyone not a beginner.  I have played allot of players in the 1500 to 1700 range and every single one of them that is an offensive player can quality loop a deep push and block or counter a slow loop.  And the defensive players in that range don't have trouble with those shots either.  I know players in the 1000 to 1200 range that are pretty good at looping underspin and handling spiny loops.  Consistent pushing and slow looping will work against most beginners with inconsistent games but most players much over 1000 can win if you only push and slow loop.  You have to attack or strategically defend and do so consistently to beat anyone anywhere close to 1700 for sure.  There will be the occasional player in the 1200 to 1500 range that struggles with these shots and you can win with them but that is the exception rather than the rule.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote popperlocker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/06/2010 at 6:57am
oh crap i'm sorry for offending. I didn't mean it that way. I've said it before, I have great respect to players rated 1000 and up. A 1000 player can beat like 80% of the 7 billion world population. A 1700 can beat like 90% of the world. I meant that players 0-1700 have weaknesses that are not too difficult to exploit. Many under 1700 cannot return slow loops. Or they cannot finish blocked shots. Or cannot loop a decent push.etc. And I meant that a slower setup makes all these shots much easier, and reduces unforced errors, makes you more confident in your strokes, gives room for better technique, etc, etc. I was watching a video from pingskills, the australian national coach said the most important important skill of table tennis is getting the ball on the table or consistency. A 1700 player might be able to counter your slow loop, but will miss 50% of these shots. Just my opinion, take it as a grain of salt.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote icontek Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/06/2010 at 10:54am
Originally posted by hungry cow hungry cow wrote:


I know players in the 1000 to 1200 range that are pretty good at looping underspin and handling spiny loops.  Consistent pushing and slow looping will work against most beginners with inconsistent games but most players much over 1000 can win if you only push and slow loop. 


I disagree entirely.

As someone primarily plays US1000-1200 players, I offer a very different opinion. Someone at this  level might be able to loop a specific (placement, spin amount) underspin ball and counter a specific (placement, spin amount) slow loop, but 1000-1200 level players lack the ability to perform against a range of placements and spins. Universally, players in this range (like myself) lack a comprehensive understanding of spin, footwork and prediction. Because of that, it's actually not to difficult to prevent them from looping successfully (using only pushes and light counters to vary spin and placement).

There's an old saying that you can get to US1600 with JUST A PUSH and it's patently TRUE.

PROOF
This player pushes everything and has great footwork and prediction. He prevents sub 2000 loopers from attacking and frequently beats US1700+ loopers and allaround players. The only other tool in his arsenal (besides the ability to read and place the ball and position himself) is a solid backhand counter against topspin. He has only 2 serves and does not have a loop OR a smash. He controls the table by playing close and maintains decisive control over the angles.

Also, players who incorporate a slow loop in addition to the push can also get to the level.

PROOF
This player has no smashes, no flat game, and not much to describe in terms of a counter game. He reads spin well enough. His footwork and service is only average for his level. What he does have are decent serves and an enormously spinny slow loop and the pushing ability to be patient enough to set up his shot. Ironically, this player usually loses to the player above 90% of matches, even though it's arguable that the latter player has more tools (like a loop) at his disposal.

What's important to note, is that even though these players have limited tools they never lose to US1000-1200 players come tournament time.

4 of these wins are against 1100-1200 loopers
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote icontek Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/06/2010 at 11:16am

Originally posted by popperlocker popperlocker wrote:


I meant that players 0-1700 have weaknesses that are not too difficult to exploit.


Yes.
That's why upsets in these matches frequently occur (bad style matchups).

Quote Many under 1700 cannot return slow loops. Or they cannot finish blocked shots. Or cannot loop a decent push.etc.


And this is exactly why US1700 level allaround players (the guys who have all the tools, including block, chop, smash, loop, counter, service and push - but nothing great) often fare so well, frequently much better than US1700 "pure" loopers. If the allarounder has a clue, they use a range of skills, strokes and techniques to identify the right tools to exploit their opponents weakness.

Realistically though - it's not necessary to have all the tools at sub 1700. You just need to have a couple of good ones that put the ball on the table one more time than your opponent. And you need to be able to control the point, by limiting your opponents choices, and forcing them to make bad decisions.

This thread tempts me to post a videos of two of my friends in a match; the US1600 push only player versus a US1700 two winged looper.

While the former will likely make most forum members groan, (lack of formal technique, lack of offense) and the latter will induce "ooh's and aah's" (wicked service, powerful and spinny loops, highly trained technique), the results will probably surprise you.

What most beginning intermediate players (US1000-1200) can't see is what they don't know. They won't understand how someone who just seems to "stand there" is able to handily beat someone who has "all the tools".

Recent Tournament Match Results of the Pusher vs Two US1700 Loopers

USATT Link to John Simpson Rating

USATT Link to Lucas Soo Rating

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote hungry cow Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/06/2010 at 12:09pm

Ok, so maybe if you develop a high level pushing and slow loop game you can beat allot of players up to the 1700 level with the right match ups.  But if this is your game you have no chance to move up to a much higher level.  Offensive players over 2000 can loop the heck out of any deep push and push great themselves, and can counterloop slow spiny loops.  And their footwork and anticipation is good enough you can't outmaneuver them with these strokes.  So my thinking is why learn and engrain a style that will limit how far you can progress?  Because if you have the skill and table sense to play at a good level pushing and slow looping then you can surely be a good allaround player and learn to drive, power loop, and chop the ball intelligently as well and be able to do well against any style of player.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Fruit loop Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/06/2010 at 12:19pm
Thread should be renamed to

Quickest way to gain 500 ratings points.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BMonkey Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/06/2010 at 12:59pm
Originally posted by icontek icontek wrote:

Originally posted by hungry cow hungry cow wrote:


I know players in the 1000 to 1200 range that are pretty good at looping underspin and handling spiny loops.  Consistent pushing and slow looping will work against most beginners with inconsistent games but most players much over 1000 can win if you only push and slow loop. 


I disagree entirely.

As someone primarily plays US1000-1200 players, I offer a very different opinion. Someone at this  level might be able to loop a specific (placement, spin amount) underspin ball and counter a specific (placement, spin amount) slow loop, but 1000-1200 level players lack the ability to perform against a range of placements and spins. Universally, players in this range (like myself) lack a comprehensive understanding of spin, footwork and prediction. Because of that, it's actually not to difficult to prevent them from looping successfully (using only pushes and light counters to vary spin and placement).

There's an old saying that you can get to US1600 with JUST A PUSH and it's patently TRUE.

PROOF
This player pushes everything and has great footwork and prediction. He prevents sub 2000 loopers from attacking and frequently beats US1700+ loopers and allaround players. The only other tool in his arsenal (besides the ability to read and place the ball and position himself) is a solid backhand counter against topspin. He has only 2 serves and does not have a loop OR a smash. He controls the table by playing close and maintains decisive control over the angles.

Also, players who incorporate a slow loop in addition to the push can also get to the level.

PROOF
This player has no smashes, no flat game, and not much to describe in terms of a counter game. He reads spin well enough. His footwork and service is only average for his level. What he does have are decent serves and an enormously spinny slow loop and the pushing ability to be patient enough to set up his shot. Ironically, this player usually loses to the player above 90% of matches, even though it's arguable that the latter player has more tools (like a loop) at his disposal.

What's important to note, is that even though these players have limited tools they never lose to US1000-1200 players come tournament time.

4 of these wins are against 1100-1200 loopers

Originally posted by popperlocker popperlocker wrote:


I meant that players 0-1700 have weaknesses that are not too difficult to exploit.


Yes.
That's why upsets in these matches frequently occur (bad style matchups).

Quote Many under 1700 cannot return slow loops. Or they cannot finish blocked shots. Or cannot loop a decent push.etc.


And this is exactly why US1700 level allaround players (the guys who have all the tools, including block, chop, smash, loop, counter, service and push - but nothing great) often fare so well, frequently much better than US1700 "pure" loopers. If the allarounder has a clue, they use a range of skills, strokes and techniques to identify the right tools to exploit their opponents weakness.

Realistically though - it's not necessary to have all the tools at sub 1700. You just need to have a couple of good ones that put the ball on the table one more time than your opponent. And you need to be able to control the point, by limiting your opponents choices, and forcing them to make bad decisions.

This thread tempts me to post a videos of two of my friends in a match; the US1600 push only player versus a US1700 two winged looper.

While the former will likely make most forum members groan, (lack of formal technique, lack of offense) and the latter will induce "ooh's and aah's" (wicked service, powerful and spinny loops, highly trained technique), the results will probably surprise you.

What most beginning intermediate players (US1000-1200) can't see is what they don't know. They won't understand how someone who just seems to "stand there" is able to handily beat someone who has "all the tools".

Recent Tournament Match Results of the Pusher vs Two US1700 Loopers

USATT Link to John Simpson Rating

USATT Link to Lucas Soo Rating

I disagree with you. Perhaps it is just being in a more active table tennis area like New York to Maryland area, or the California, or Texas but pushes are weak sauce if you don't have a big follow up. Anyone who plays in a club with a good supply (I.E. a dozen or more) of over 1800 players will have had a good bit of experience being crushed into dust by powerful pushes and supersonic loops/smashes. After practicing with a 2400 one wing power looper though and getting the feel for blocking a massive loop, blocking a weak 1400-1800 loop is much more doable. Just like playing with a 2000 defensive player and learning how to deal with their pushes and chops without netting it every time means when you go back to your own level it is much more controllable.
 
It doesn't mean that you gain 500 points however. That comes from learning tactics and reading the game. Being able to execute a technique is worthless if you don't know when to execute it. And gaining 500 points in a competitive region is difficult because of the constant supply of underrated players, but that topic has already been delved into elsewhere...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote icontek Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/07/2010 at 9:26am
Originally posted by hungry cow hungry cow wrote:


Ok, so maybe if you develop a high level pushing and slow loop game you can beat allot of players up to the 1700 level with the right match ups.  But if this is your game you have no chance to move up to a much higher level. 


I want to be clear on a couple of things:

-I now live in a state with a limited TT population. And heck, I'll be satisfied when I make it to US1500 (that's about the sweet spot for competition, as there are very few > US1700 players in the state - only about 5-6 active, maybe 5-6 inactive). However, I used to live in NJ, and I noticed there as well that players with controlled pushes, blocks and counters using medium speed gear would (more often than not) beat loopers through the 1500's. It was only above 1800 or so that the dominance of looping would shine through.

-Like my state, this forum is chock full of US1000-1300 players who have gear as fast as most US2000-2400 players, who have the "loop everything" mentality. While that gear may help produce powerful loops and smashes, more controlled players will PREVENT these players from getting to use these strokes. I was trying to demonstrate that under 1700 or so, power is not all that important (fundamental strokes, placement and tactics are more valuable).

-And I didn't mean to derail the thread. I meant to provide examples that slow, controlled equipment allows a player to develop fundamental placement and spin shots that can be chained together into effective strategies that work at a higher level than many of us here at this forum currently play.

-Can anyone else back me up that it is better to "set up your point" and take a "high percentage shot" than to be forced into taking a riskier shot?

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote popperlocker Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/07/2010 at 2:18pm
Originally posted by icontek icontek wrote:


Originally posted by hungry cow hungry cow wrote:

Ok, so maybe if you develop a high level pushing and slow loop game you can beat allot of players up to the 1700 level with the right match ups.� But if this is your game you have no chance to move up to a much higher level.�
I want to be clear on a couple of things:-I now live in a state with a limited TT population. And heck, I'll be satisfied when I make it to US1500 (that's about the sweet spot for competition, as there are very few > US1700 players in the state - only about 5-6 active, maybe 5-6 inactive). However, I used to live in NJ, and I noticed there as well that players with controlled pushes, blocks and counters using medium speed gear would (more often than not) beat loopers through the 1500's. It was only above 1800 or so that the dominance of looping would shine through.-Like my state, this forum is chock full of US1000-1300 players who have gear as fast as most US2000-2400 players, who have the "loop everything" mentality. While that gear may help produce powerful loops and smashes, more controlled players will PREVENT these players from getting to use these strokes. I was trying to demonstrate that under 1700 or so, power is not all that important (fundamental strokes, placement and tactics are more valuable).-And I didn't mean to derail the thread. I meant to provide examples
that slow, controlled equipment allows a player to develop fundamental
placement and spin shots that can be chained together into effective
strategies that work at a higher level than many of us here at this forum currently play.
-Can anyone else back me up that it is better to "set up your point" and
take a "high percentage shot" than to be forced into taking a riskier
shot?

haha, thread derailed. yeah i think everyone will agree that it's better to take control strokes than to take wild man swings. anyway, lots of you guys have said this, but i would like to say it one more time, for the new players. because when i was starting out, I thought this was total bs. > a slow setup allows you to hit harder. I know it sounds crazy! but it's true, when you use a fast setup it cuts down your time and makes you take crap garage strokes. a slow setup gives you more time, gives you bigger stroke sweet spot, and other good stuff. also, using a slow setup makes all the shots easier, slow loops and fast loops! and also, some people think med or off-speed rackets is a "slow" racket. if you're still making a good amount of unforced errors. try a def rated racket, you will be amazed at the power shots you suddenly are able to make, and your consistency jumps like crazy.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote speedy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/08/2010 at 1:33am
Originally posted by fatt fatt wrote:

hey speedy
i am no specialist to talk to a player 400 points above me however let me ask a few questions to make things clear:
is there a risk if we go too much down in speed that it gets boring? so if the fun goes away the result might be even worst.
Going too slow for somebody who can do such rocket launching loops like yours is dangerous to a point the interest in the game might sufferConfused.
I can't wait to read what you will say using in order to have at the same time a blade that's 1)fast enough for you to keep the fun intact and 2) slow enough to develop the body work.
a light Photino with a slower rubber? an acoustic with a faster rubber?
bets are open Big%20smile.


fatt,

Sorry, I have been busy and didn't response to your questions quick enough, but I am here now.  And let me attempt to answer your questions:

1.  Is there a risk if we go too much down in speed that it gets boring?
Ans:  Yes, change things dramatically too quickly is always a risk.  For me, yes, it will bore me to death.  And yes, it will get worst if you have no more fun.

2.  Going too slow for somebody who can do such rocket launching loops like yours is dangerous to a point the interest in the game might sufferConfused.
Ans:  Trust me, I only reduce my setup 20%, but my shot still have 90% power.  Now, I increased my consistency by 40% by reduced the speed of the equipment by 20% and the power of the shots by 10%.  So, if we do the trade-off studies, it's worth it.  Smile

These are just general ideas what went through my mind.  My game is going down right now, but it has nothing to do with my equipment.  I have been practicing only 3 hour every 2 weeks or so.  It has been like this for a year.  So, going with slower equipment, it actually helps me a lot more, and it makes up for my lack of practice.

I don't know if I actually answer your questions or not, but it's a great topic Smile

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote icontek Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/12/2010 at 12:11am
I had a chance to play some "hard working" college kids tonight.

They get to play 4-5 hours a day - LUCKY BASTARDS!. Several of them are clearly have been playing for some time - but many of them have been playing seriously for less than a year.

I was impressed with several things:

1) each had their own already well defined style
(fisher/lobber/counterattacker, BH push/FH loop allarounder, CPEN FH attacker, BH counterdriver, etc).
2) they were able to keep up with (and in some cases beat) several of the 1000-1100 rated people at the club
3) one of the more seasoned guys was responsible for mentoring them.
4) they all had insane work ethics and truly loved the game.

But As one might expect, their equipment ranged from Aged Premade to OFF+. And I am concerned that the young guy with OFF+ gear is going to get discouraged, because while it allowed him to do some great off the table counter driving, it was clear that "too fast" and "too spinny" = "too many unforced errors". And the only "down moment" of the night came when I discovered that the same guy who was mentoring them also helped him select his OFF+ blade/rubbers :(

Of the group, the only player I had trouble with used a careworn premade that produced enough spin to loop and push, but also lots of dead balls. He was nearly immune to service spin and I had to work my ass off in rallies, sometimes allowing him to attack so I could block him out of position or loop wide to his FH. It went 5 games and I snuck by him on fewer unforced errors.


I know that there's a stigma against "basement players" - but in fact, these folk should be the lifeblood of the sport and should be transitioned into club and league play.

But I strongly believe that helping them select REASONABLE gear is a  way that club players can do the responsible thing and support individual growth.

Recently I let several pre-made users try out setups from my EJ collection: an LKT instinct with Inspirit Regular and a Grubba Pro with Focus III. You should have seen the wonderment, it was like kids at Christmas! What impressed me the most was that this gradual step up (in terms of blade speed) meant that they could re-use much of their strokes and tactics; they only had to focus on reading spin, because the gear was forgiving enough to let them "play their game". And the difference in speed and spin that they were able to generate was remarkeable, and in some cases intimidating :)

Many EJ's (myself included) have been conditioned to believe that you can't rip loopkills from mid distance with classic rubber and an ALL+ blade. This is patently false. It simply requires more effort or more efficiency from your technique to do so.

LOB LOB LOOPKILL.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Speedplay Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/12/2010 at 3:44am
Originally posted by APW46 APW46 wrote:

Rule No1.

Hit the table one more time than the other guy.


�Its the blade where most slip up, slow/med blade plus good quality rubbers, thats the secret. It gives you more options, if you want to hit harder, just hit harder, lets not forget, the ball weighs practically nothing when the forces of a human arm are concerned and a slower set up allows you to be pro-active to an incoming ball with confidence, if your set up is too fast you are stuck in a one paced nightmare with the delusion of promise because of the occasional screamer.


Agree!

Even though I my self have picked a fast blade and fast rubbers I still maintain that it is stupid to make claims that allround equipment isn't fast enough to hit winners. With the right technique, any given all round rated blade along with Sriver or Mark V should provide you with more then enough power to hit winners. If you fail at this, don't blame the equipment, blame your technique! Unless you actually play at a very high level! Forget USATT 2000, I'm speaking of even higher level then this. Bogeyhunter who is rated above 2000 uses (or used to use) an Allround rated blade with Globe 999 1.5 or something like that, and I've seen videos of him where he hits the ball past the opponents several times.

With this said, the most important part about equipment is that you feel comfortable playing with it and that you enjoy the game, cause if you don't do this, then you will never make any progress. If you want to use Off++ blades and the fastest rubbers available, while playing at USATT 1000, fine by me, as long as you enjoy your game and don't blame the equipment for your lack of control. Sure, equipment is important, but in the end, it is not the equipment that wins matches, it is the player holding it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote evilelf2407 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/12/2010 at 11:29am
I read some of the responses, but there were a lot, its finals week, and im tired as hell, so im speaking from experience as a usatt 2000 player.

i used to play with a sh*tty balsa blade back when i was 1200, this got me to 1600. i switched to sriver on both sides, offensive classic (a lot slower setup), and got to 1800. when I reached 1800 i switched to a faster setup (tenergy, JO platin soft, and still OC blade), and now im 2000. I'm a two winged looper so it fits my style.

thats a little background on me, heres my experience playing 1200-2200 players:

anyone above 1800 is a respectable table tennis player. sorry to those below that, and i sptne a few years below 1800, but if a bystander who does not play table tennis watches a match between two 1700 players, they will not be impressed. a match between 1900, they will be impressed. 1800 is the cutoff between me going easy on you, or trying my hardest.

nobody should be worrying about fast equipment if you are below 1900 usatt. above 1900, you start worrying about having to hit harder, more consistently, and more spin... below 1800, i can beat you without playing offense, because you make more mistakes than winners. You may hit a winner shot every 5 shots, but the rest of the match i can move you around, block you down, and let you make mistakes. if you are a little better, i can send a slow loop your way, and you'll give me an easy 5th that i can smash. another thign ive noticed, <1800 you have no short game. sorry, but its true. if you serve me short, i can drop it short, and you'll push it long. ive yet to play someone below 1800 that has a respectable short game. this also applies to serve return...both something that i blame on lack of practice, and equipment that is too fast.

that is my personal experience. ive had so many beginners (1000-1200) players come to me and ask me what equipment i use, and i almost dont want to tell them, because ik they'll try it, and a) its an expensive setup, and b) it will not suit their game
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote mhnh007 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 05/12/2010 at 11:44am
Originally posted by evilelf2407 evilelf2407 wrote:

I read some of the responses, but there were a lot, its finals week, and im tired as hell, so im speaking from experience as a usatt 2000 player.

i used to play with a sh*tty balsa blade back when i was 1200, this got me to 1600. i switched to sriver on both sides, offensive classic (a lot slower setup), and got to 1800. when I reached 1800 i switched to a faster setup (tenergy, JO platin soft, and still OC blade), and now im 2000. I'm a two winged looper so it fits my style.

thats a little background on me, heres my experience playing 1200-2200 players:

anyone above 1800 is a respectable table tennis player. sorry to those below that, and i sptne a few years below 1800, but if a bystander who does not play table tennis watches a match between two 1700 players, they will not be impressed. a match between 1900, they will be impressed. 1800 is the cutoff between me going easy on you, or trying my hardest.

nobody should be worrying about fast equipment if you are below 1900 usatt. above 1900, you start worrying about having to hit harder, more consistently, and more spin... below 1800, i can beat you without playing offense, because you make more mistakes than winners. You may hit a winner shot every 5 shots, but the rest of the match i can move you around, block you down, and let you make mistakes. if you are a little better, i can send a slow loop your way, and you'll give me an easy 5th that i can smash. another thign ive noticed, <1800 you have no short game. sorry, but its true. if you serve me short, i can drop it short, and you'll push it long. ive yet to play someone below 1800 that has a respectable short game. this also applies to serve return...both something that i blame on lack of practice, and equipment that is too fast.

that is my personal experience. ive had so many beginners (1000-1200) players come to me and ask me what equipment i use, and i almost dont want to tell them, because ik they'll try it, and a) its an expensive setup, and b) it will not suit their game
+1. You speak the truth...  BTW - how long does it take you to go over the hump, and what did you do to get over it?  Thks,
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