a blade like kreanga carbon?

Ishlion.

I reckon the Amultart feels very similar due to the hinoki outer plies.

The amultart is faster but hey, these days rubbers are slower without speed glue so its all good.

jonyer1980 wrote: yorsh82 wrote: hi!, hey...is there a blade that plays like a kreanga carbon?.....the feel...the speed...i think is an awesome blade...but it's banned =(   why?

KC is awesome blade. You just need to sand the paint out of its surface, then it would be legal.

dont forget the look,

from dawei

jonyer1980 wrote:   But this doesn�t mean to be banned, just only it�s difficult to attach rubber because of the slippery paint.

No. By rule, the wood grain need to be clearly shown. The paint on KC has made it illegal. By removing the paint, the blade would be legal to play.

here is the pic from that link,

After the paint removed the blade weight reduction was very noticable. The power of the blade was not gone. Even the control increased and close to table play was like all+ blade.

I think the layer is Hinoki. It is not a a one piece of hinoki. Small wood grains are compressed the form this layer. After the layer was completly removed you could destroy that layer rubbing your finger. It is a very soft layer that you could scratch it with your nail. I even made two dips by hitting the blade softly to a table edge when there was 2.1mm tenergies on it.

Here are some photos

http://picasaweb.google.com.tr/samionurzaim/Masatenisi#5323721646144364978

http://picasaweb.google.com.tr/samionurzaim/Masatenisi#5323721679803758802

I played with ishlion also. I think Kreanga is more flexible and has got more gears(paint removed version). Kreanga can handle thin and hard sponges whereas the Ishlion is for thick and soft rubbers if you need variatons in your shots. Btw Ishlion has got and empty handle like stiga blades. Just hit it with your finger to notice it.

btw. thanks to bozbrisvegas for making the pics published in an easier way.

Whenever I get chance to weigh it I will but I dont know anyone who can help me about this close to me. I will search tough.

The reason I want it removed was a test if the feeling would increase. Yes it did increase and it was still a powerfull blade after I removed. Only touch shots like flip, flick, serve returns, drop shots and on short serves the blades power decreased. But it was more controlable. I didnt have problem controling the blade with its paint but some of my friends said it became a more playable blade after the layer was gone.

I had the non sticking rubber problems when I tried to use a boosted or a heavily glued rubber. Some sandpaper work did work for a while but I still had to use some presurring device or big books to stick a rubber sometimes.

This blade is discontinued now but if a person want to buy a new one they can find it elsewhere. But it will depleet one day anyhow. It will be slow because of its price I guess.


I can not say anything about my level right now because I do not have a benchmark in my country to test my skill of tabletennis. Maybe some video may help

There was a great modified KC. You could have more info there. 

bozbrisvegas wrote: �this is another thing I have noticed when using heavy vocs: � they dampen the actual wood, softening not only the rubber but the wood too, so you might find it doesnt feel so quick for the touch shots.� This would have happened when you removed that paint with solvents, if you didnt use solvents then sorry for my idea. � they being sold for about $300 australian dollars when they came out. I bought mine in Thailand for $100! last year, the only reason I bought it was because I knew it was the most expensive blade in the world and would resell it as I have.

i want to buy a KC, is there an online shop in thailand where i can get it??
regards