How to repair this blade?
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Topic: How to repair this blade?
Posted By: Hopsquatch
Subject: How to repair this blade?
Date Posted: 08/01/2021 at 1:55am
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uploads/38222/IMG_3487.JPG" rel="nofollow - uploads/38222/IMG_3487.JPG uploads/38222/IMG_3488.JPG" rel="nofollow - uploads/38222/IMG_3488.JPG 1) try to reglue the broken plies back into position using wood glue 2) use wood filler to "fill in" the broken area For playing characteristics I'd prefer option 1, but am worried that the area will be "raised" after gluing it. I could try to sand it down if it does end up being raised, but then I imagine I'd be practically shearing off that top veneer. Option 2 would be easier to sand down afterwards, but I'm worried if it'll alter the playing characteristics (the chip is right where I contact the ball for serves/chops/pushes). Does anyone have advice on how to go about repairing the blade? I have no experience in woodworking, & don't know if there's any serious issues with either option. Of course if anyone has a third option, I'd love to hear it! I'd prefer to repair the blade if possible; it's not particularly expensive or valuable, but it's my first custom blade so it's got a fair amount of sentimental value riding on it.
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Replies:
Posted By: TT newbie
Date Posted: 08/01/2021 at 11:25am
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This area of the blade does not touch the ball so any job will not affect playing characteristics. If you don´t mind a "dirty" repair, using superglue + sodium bicarbonate fill it perfectly. Then some sanding is needed of course. I do it when my blades get some dents.
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Posted By: SmileTT
Date Posted: 08/04/2021 at 12:10am
Use super glue between the wood plies. And if you want, some rubber cement between the rubber and blade. Then just press and hold it till everything dries.  ------------- Xiom Omega IV Euro | Freitas ALC | Xiom Omega IV Euro https://tinyurl.com/yaoh8suu" rel="nofollow - Feedbacks |
Posted By: king_pong
Date Posted: 11/04/2021 at 9:20pm
You could use "Hide-Glue" (i.e. "bone-glue" like manufacturers have used to preserve 'feeling') . I researched these pretty extensively when I had a fierce chip in my main set-up that was all the way through the top-ply and slightly bigger than yours. There is 'Titebond', 'Old Brown Glue', and actual hide-glue. I ended up going with actual fact hide-glue granules. It's a longer process cause you have to mix it yourself and keep it at a specific temperature (crock-pot helped with that ). Then I pressed it with old plastic credit card and some claps, and finally I sanded the edge for any of it that stuck out. Feels/plays as good as new👍 Good luck There were three types of Hide-glue that I checked out, and I went with the 3rd option, but the 2 first ones looked sounded easier (I always go for the hardest way possible  ) —— http://https://www.amazon.com/Titebond-Genuine-Hide-Glue-4-Ounce/dp/B0006NNJY0/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=hide+glue&qid=1636074580&sr=8-4" rel="nofollow - http://https://www.amazon.com/Titebond-Genuine-Hide-Glue-4-Ounce/dp/B0006NNJY0/ref=sr_1_4?keywords=hide+glue&qid=1636074580&sr=8-4 — http://https://www.amazon.com/Old-Brown-Glue-5oz/dp/B00LFKJ0W8/ref=sr_1_10?keywords=hide+glue&qid=1636074841&sr=8-10" rel="nofollow - http://https://www.amazon.com/Old-Brown-Glue-5oz/dp/B00LFKJ0W8/ref=sr_1_10?keywords=hide+glue&qid=1636074841&sr=8-10 — http://https://www.amazon.com/Granules-Crystals-Strength-Regular-Clarity/dp/B08431JVYT/ref=sr_1_22?keywords=hide+glue&qid=1636074841&sr=8-22" rel="nofollow - http://https://www.amazon.com/Granules-Crystals-Strength-Regular-Clarity/dp/B08431JVYT/ref=sr_1_22?keywords=hide+glue&qid=1636074841&sr=8-22 ------------- Stiga Infinity VPS (Master): fh/bh - Nittaku Hammond CR max |
Posted By: qpskfec
Date Posted: 11/05/2021 at 7:48pm
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I've done this repair. I am planning to do it again on another paddle the next time I change the rubber. Cut away the wood that is loose. Fill the empty space with wood epoxy, scrape the epoxy flat with an old credit card. Sand with fine sandpaper after curing. I used this wood epoxy: https://www.amazon.com/J-B-Weld-8257-KwikWood-Stick-1/dp/B002NJDAJY/ref=sr_1_5?crid=1TVOYV3VDTT6H&keywords=wood+epoxy&qid=1636155325&sprefix=wood+epoxy%2Caps%2C151&sr=8-5" rel="nofollow - https://www.amazon.com/J-B-Weld-8257-KwikWood-Stick-1/dp/B002NJDAJY/ref=sr_1_5?crid=1TVOYV3VDTT6H&keywords=wood+epoxy&qid=1636155325&sprefix=wood+epoxy%2Caps%2C151&sr=8-5 |
Posted By: Hopsquatch
Date Posted: 11/07/2021 at 9:56pm
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I ended up using wood glue to paste the piece back onto the blade, and sanded it down until it was flush (more or less). I also reglued my long pips to that side, seeing as I'll be replacing that less often than my inverted rubber. Hopefully that means there's less chances for it to splinter off when changing rubbers. There doesn't seem to be a noticeable difference in either a bounce test or when playing/chopping, so I think that did the trick!
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Posted By: Claudiu84
Date Posted: 11/11/2021 at 9:00am
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Posted By: Claudiu84
Date Posted: 11/11/2021 at 9:01am
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TT newbie wrote: