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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote arg0 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07/11/2011 at 1:37am
Thanks for sharing your design process. It's always very insightful to read how a blade is developed.
Purely aesthetically, I like the design of Calix better.
In what are the playing characteristics of Spartacus different from Color, which, if I'm not mistaken, has hinoki-spruce-ayous-spruce-hinoki construction and is a bit thicker?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Nexy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 07/11/2011 at 11:29am
Originally posted by arg0 arg0 wrote:

Thanks for sharing your design process. It's always very insightful to read how a blade is developed.
Purely aesthetically, I like the design of Calix better.
In what are the playing characteristics of Spartacus different from Color, which, if I'm not mistaken, has hinoki-spruce-ayous-spruce-hinoki construction and is a bit thicker?
 
Thank you for asking an interesting question.
 
Actually, I've never thought of an idea that people can ask what will be the difference between Spartacus and Color.
The reason for that is, mainly due to the fact that Spartacus is trying to make something quite different from all those other brands are chasing after. It's been well known truth that Asian players, specially in Korea, like to play with fast Hinoki carbon blades, and lots of brands are making the same kinds.
So, when I designed Hannibal, the biggest concern was how to escape that same composition and similarity of well known Hinoki carbon blades. But I think Hannibal seems still alike much.
 
But Spartacus is very different from all those Hinoki carbon blades.
It's not only the composition of wood plies.
It has quite different goal in all purposes.
It has a little bit more direct feeling onto your hand and more stable stroke.
But it can grip the ball deeper than others, and generates bigger spin and power.
 
By the way, Color has quite different purpose.
It was designed to show what Nexy is trying for.
Color has to be unique, and it's purpose was not satisfy all players.
Color has some limited players who will like it.
Modest feeling, stable top spin in any position, longer trajectory from the middle distance, easy to flick on the table..... most features I aimed at was showing that Nexy is not Korean only.
Nexy has different purpose, which can satisfy Non-Korean players, too.
 
So, color is not very speedy, if we judge only by mechanical numbers.
With color, I tried to show that Nexy can be different from other Asian brands.
But that point was not for Non-Korean, but rather for Korean people.
I betrayed what general Koreans believed that I would try for.
 
Therefore, you can see that Color can not compete with Spartacus with speed.
And color is stable and modess in many ways.
But Sprtacus is some times fierce.
It attacks without being notified.
What if I explain with these two animals we can bring in our house?
Spartacus is like an angry cat, which some times attacks you when you are not ready.
Compared with Spartacus, Color is like a cute puppy.
You know what it will do.
On the other hand, Color follows what you want to do.
It's loyal to your expectaions.
 
 
 
 


Edited by Nexy - 07/11/2011 at 11:33am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Nexy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09/07/2011 at 9:19am
Spartacus is out on the market.
 
 
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Nexy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09/27/2011 at 4:54am
Regarding this blade, I think I did not share much about why and what I aimed at.
 
Let me briefly share what's the difference between Korean table tennis, Chinese table tennis and Europan table tennis.
It will not be a short story, and I think probably I have to be sitting on the chair for several hours to share this story with more detail.
But in short, I can safely say that Korean players moves wider than normal other players.
 
The reason is, because Korea used to have good J-pen penholder players, such as Kim Taek Soo, Ryu Nam Gyu and Lee Chul Seung. Actually, most Korean players used to play with J-pen. (Let alone Ryu Seung Min, 2000 Olympic Gold medalist)
So, all those good J-pen players are now in charge of many good teams, and players are under the influence of those J-pen star players.
 
When you play with J-pen, you always try to turn and play with your forehand side.
If you have to use your backhand side, you can not make a powerful shot, rather focus on blocking.
And that's the tragedy why now in Korea we don't have many of them.
 
So, most J-pen players try more to learn how to turn and switch into forehand side, by which they can turn into an attacking position from defensive blocking position, than to learn how to make a powerful back hand top-spin skill.
 
Picture this scene. When you want to turn and swtich, then how come you can get some momets to turn and swtich?
The possible way is to move backward.
If you move a little backward, then you will have more space to turn, as well as more time.
 
So, most J-pen Korean players try to move backward to make a space to make this quick change, if they are playing with J-pen.
 
Actually, many people in this forum think of me only as a craftman. But I'm not.
I'm actually agent of Tibhar, Stiga, Parlio, Yinhe in Korean market.
And I had several chances to run training camps in Korea for those other brands.
I could compare what is the difference among many other countries' players.
 
Now three countries' players are becoming similiar to one another, China, Korea and Europe.
But if I compare their movements, I think Korean players moves a lot back and forth.
Chinese players, they move not much back and forth, rather they move left and right.
European players, normally they used to play a little farther than Chinese players, and now they are becoming very similiar to Chinese, but still they don't move back and forth much.
 
I could experiment this when I had training camps in Korea.
Many European players, including Croatia, Sweden, Germany, France, Italy.... they don't know how to move back and forth that much and fast.
So, Korean players have better leg movement.
But they don't have good movement on their shoulders as German players do.
 
Yes, each European player has his own way, so I can not generallize them all into one form.
But I think I can safely conclude that European players use shoulders, wrists more than Korean players, but they don't have good footwork as Korean players.
 
Any way, when I design my Lissom and this new blade Spartacus, (and also the upcoming Calix) I found out if I consider this Korean player's movement into the blade design, then I can get something valuable.
Because we need something different per each location.
When we are far away from the table, we need long trajectory.
When we are in the middle, we need control and power together.
When we are close to the table, we need quick and exact reaction.
 
So, what will be the key to these different character per each location?
 
I found out I can divide the point where the ball act against the blade.
 
For an example, when we play close to the table, actually we don't need a very good speed. Because short distance between two players cover that. Rather we need good control and quick reaction. So, I had to design how I can make an instant but computerised reaction onto the blade surface. I think if the blade is too hard, then it would not be good. It can be exact, but the ball does not stay on the surface, so you don't have a feeling you need to have when you have that short moment to control the ball. So, I used the second layer to dampen the impact of the flying ball onto the blade.
Regarding surface, I used very different materials. For Lissom, I used very hard material. But that is not thick, and embrace the ball, and connect the ball's movement to the second layer, thus the ball can react as the player want.
 
In Spartacus, I used very soft Kiso Hinoki, but I made an harmony by using hard carbon under the second layer. So, overall feeling is very similiar to Lissom's one.
Regarding Calix, it's quite different. It has very hard surface like Lissom, but also it has very hard carbon layer. But the surface wood has some dampening feeling, and the result of those three layers are also very similiar to Lissom and Spartacus.
But remember that Spartacus and Calix are only 5.7mm thick. They are thin. And vibration and stiff feeling coming from carbon layers are making good balance.
 
And I also think much about how my blade has to react when a player plays quite far away from the table.
In that case, the ball relies much on the core material, together with the carbon layers.
So, I tried to give a good power factor in the core and carbon layers' mixture.
Generally, I prefer hard but light feeling in the middle layers.
It makes good vibration, and also good power, which makes a long trajectory.
If a blade is thick, and does not vibrate at all, then the ball normally does not fly with much spin and long trajectory. Actually, the ball must make an annoying curve and disraction, when you play in the long distance. So, I tried to make blades thin.
 
I don't know you people will buy this story or not.
Some people wrote to me that I might copy other brand's blades.
But actually, I don't.
I knows lot's of other designers, but in most cases, they listen to me.
I share what I think.
I give informations to other global brand designers.
And they know that I always do something different.
 
So, this is the actual story, how I tried to make these blades.
And that's why I explain that you can have a "bang impact" if you want,and also you can make a very spinny but short trajectory ball with the same blade.
 
I hope this story helps people to understand more about my three blades, Lissom, Spartacus and Calix.
Oh, Spear is also similiar in this basic idea.


Edited by Nexy - 09/27/2011 at 4:58am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Liquid Sky Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09/27/2011 at 8:01am
I'm wondering if you actually bild the blades yourself during the design process?
Or do you propose the composition of the blades to the blade builders?

Or do you propose the concepts of your blades to blade builders?

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote arg0 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 09/27/2011 at 10:42am
Thank you for sharing your design process, it is always insightful to know what considerations lead to the design of a blade. I have now been playing with Lissom as my main blade for the last 6 months and I am amazed by how versatile it is. I think that with Vega Pro on my fh and a classic rubber on my bh I've reached a balance that suits my game well. Sooner or later I want to try Spartacus, because I plan to switch back to classic rubbers on my fh as well, but Lissom is a little slow for that. Or Calix, maybe, unless it's much faster than Lissom.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Nexy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/06/2011 at 3:26am
Originally posted by Liquid Sky Liquid Sky wrote:

I'm wondering if you actually bild the blades yourself during the design process?
Or do you propose the composition of the blades to the blade builders?

Or do you propose the concepts of your blades to blade builders?

I've not been here for long time.
Sorry to be late in reply.
 
I'm a designer.
Just think of me as a desinger only, not a craftman.
Actually, most blade designers are like me,
and we usually design by imagination first, then test the actual sample.
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Nexy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/06/2011 at 3:27am
Originally posted by arg0 arg0 wrote:

Thank you for sharing your design process, it is always insightful to know what considerations lead to the design of a blade. I have now been playing with Lissom as my main blade for the last 6 months and I am amazed by how versatile it is. I think that with Vega Pro on my fh and a classic rubber on my bh I've reached a balance that suits my game well. Sooner or later I want to try Spartacus, because I plan to switch back to classic rubbers on my fh as well, but Lissom is a little slow for that. Or Calix, maybe, unless it's much faster than Lissom.
 
In Korea, many people are saying that Spartacus is very similiar to Lissom, but with faster speed.
I think it's worth while to test.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote arg0 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/28/2011 at 7:16am
I see the Calix is now on the nexy.com web site. Anybody tested it? I'm very curious.
Optically, the blade looks awesome!

Edit:
BTW: at the end of the page (http://nexy.com/shop/step1.php?number=1273), before the dimensions, it says "Spartacus". That should be "Calix", I suppose.


Edited by arg0 - 10/28/2011 at 7:19am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote peter79 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 10/28/2011 at 10:30am
Calix is very thin, 5.0 mm only!!!
The best design Nexy blade so far, the handle finish is better than previous nexy blades.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Nexy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11/06/2011 at 9:51pm
This is it, Calix!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Nexy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11/06/2011 at 10:46pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote harldhzx Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11/07/2011 at 8:48am
Great design, looks beautiful Clap

Edited by harldhzx - 11/07/2011 at 8:49am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Nexy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 11/07/2011 at 10:39am
Originally posted by arg0 arg0 wrote:

I see the Calix is now on the nexy.com web site. Anybody tested it? I'm very curious.
Optically, the blade looks awesome!

Edit:
BTW: at the end of the page (http://nexy.com/shop/step1.php?number=1273), before the dimensions, it says "Spartacus". That should be "Calix", I suppose.
 
Thank you, we changed it.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Nexy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/09/2011 at 4:19am

NEXY builds the second well in East Indonesia

 
I'm so happy to give this information within this year.
As we did in the last year winter, this year, we are building up another well in needy country.
I picked up some place close to Korea, and planned to visit.
So, this news will be updated later on.
 
Below is the proposal we received from COMPASSION.
 
 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

§ Country: East Indonesia

§ Location/Project: East Kalimantan Province

§ Direct Beneficiaries: ID-512 “Damai Sejahtera”

of child beneficiaries: 138 children

        of adult beneficiaries: 130 children family

 

 

Problem Statement and Assumptions

To have clean, safe and reliable water are very important for a child development center that is serving hundreds of children almost every day. It needs the water not only for the children to wash their hand before eating, or cleaning up their dishes but also to teach them a way that will protect them of being sick and dirty. However, this condition may not be fully achieved if the water resource itself is not enough and not meet the standard of good quality of water just like what is happened in ID 512 “Damai Sejahtera” in West Kutai, East Kalimantan.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 
 
Water from the rain that is trapped in a small pond that is used by the children family.

 

 

In some situation, in order to supply the need of the water, the project should use the water tapped from the rain or to get it from the nearest river at the village but it is ironic to know that the water of the river was contaminated as the community around also used it as their home wasting canal including defecating. This condition has brought the children to become vulnerable to water related disease such as diarrhea, typhus, and skin disease. Since one of our child development outcomes aimed that the child is physically health and chooses healthy life practices this condition then become barriers for the project to fulfill this objective. Even though the project staff taught the children about hygiene but it cannot be practiced in the project effectively due to insufficient of water resources and latrines facility.

While at home the children’s family often uses the tapped rain water for daily needs, and when the dry season stroked they will depend on the river. This condition has brought the children easy to be sick and attacked by the related diseases. As they getting sick, eventually it affected their attendance rate at the CDC and increased the amount of medical reimbursement. On the other hand, the ICP without the clean water and latrines would look dirty and un-hygiene, and reduce both children and parents interest to attend project activities at CDC. It is, therefore, crucial for us to assist ID-512 “Damai Sejahtera” in providing adequate clean water and latrine.

Objectives

As for this CIV WASH intervention, the ICP has some objectives to go. Firstly, the ICP aimed that by the end of this 2011, the CDC will have an easy access for safe and clean water supplies and also to have the children an access for latrines while in the project. After the set up of the facilities, it is then expected that the children will have sufficient knowledge and skills on how to maintain this facility with sense of responsibility as a result of their understanding on the importance of choosing healthy life practices. Environmentally, the ICP also want to promote and introduce the good sanitation and hygiene practices not only to the

children but also to the parents, and event community around the CDC, especially when they can see the milestone of the children the time they use the facility in the CDC. As a result of this choosing healthy life practices, the ICP targeted that the incident of disease related to poor quality of water, bad sanitation and un-hygiene practices will decrease and prevent the children from those threats. It is also expected that the using of the clean water and latrines at the end will become a habit for the children. Finally but not the least, it is dreamed that the church can be a blessings for the community by providing clean water for those around in need when the water quantity allow them to do so. The framework, measurement and standard of success of these objectives are described on the objective measurement table.

 

Implementation Plan, Activities and Schedule

In implementing this activity at each targeted partner, there will be five areas of work:

1. Drilling Process.

2. Water Installation Setup.

3. Water Tanks Installation.

4. Technical Training on the Proper Use and Maintenance of Water Facility.

5. Build safe, healthy latrines.



Edited by Nexy - 12/09/2011 at 4:32am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote elmo51 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/09/2011 at 4:32am
That is great news!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Nexy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/09/2011 at 4:34am
Originally posted by elmo51 elmo51 wrote:

That is great news!
I'm planning to visit the place in February.
And I wish I could give free table and blades to 130 children, as well as new well and toilet.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BH-Man Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/10/2011 at 8:20am
Someone from a forum is collecting blades/rubbers for this purpose. But... good priority. Water. Without it, one could die in a day or so. TT is fun and children should have teh chance to have fun before coping with hard realities.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote szikorz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/10/2011 at 9:13am
Good day.  Does Nexy Lissom have a white ash upper ply? What is the overall contstruction of this elegant 7 ply blade? Could Mr. Nexy or other expert briefly compare white ash to limba, hinoki and koto? I play Nittaku Violin, like its feel and playing characteristics of the "white ash white ash kiri" construction which seems to me empirically closer to the harder koto outer ply  constructikons rather than to hinoki or limba. Thx. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Nexy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/18/2011 at 7:52pm
Originally posted by szikorz szikorz wrote:

Good day.  Does Nexy Lissom have a white ash upper ply? What is the overall contstruction of this elegant 7 ply blade? Could Mr. Nexy or other expert briefly compare white ash to limba, hinoki and koto? I play Nittaku Violin, like its feel and playing characteristics of the "white ash white ash kiri" construction which seems to me empirically closer to the harder koto outer ply  constructikons rather than to hinoki or limba. Thx. 
 
I will leave a brief note.
 
I used white ash on the Lissom's surface. 
White ash is very attractive for the blade surface.
 
 
Many people don't know what we can use for the surface of the blade.
 
The first thing will be the width of the trunk.
Some woods are good in function, but not possible to use for the surface, because it's not wide enough to cover the whole blade.
 
The second thing will be related with the touch of the ball.
Some woods are good in speed, but not good with the feeling, and touch, then it can not come on the surface.
Surface wood needs to give good touch feeling.
 
The third thing will be about how much spinny shot that surface would make.
 
In these three aspects, Rosewood and Ebony, which are used for Stiga blades can not match the first condition, because in many cases, they are not wide enough to cover the whole blade. So lots of Stiga blades are now using two pieces together on one surface. But they are very good in condition 2 and 3.
(I think Ebony and Rosewood materials have not been considered to be tested for blades, due to the width of it, but Stiga decided to use it by jointing them. That was clever, but still has some defects aesthetically.)
 
 
Regarding white ash, it's attractive material, because it has very good feeling, and overall ok spin. And of course it's wide enough to cover the whole blade.
But when it's thick, it becomes dull.
So, I use it with thin thickness only.
 
Regarding other materials used for Lissom are not to be told, but to be guessed only.
 
Thank you.
 
 


Edited by Nexy - 12/18/2011 at 7:56pm
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote szikorz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/19/2011 at 4:04pm
Mr. Nexy, thank you for the very clear answer and useful information. 

I am playing the Nittaku Violin (white ash, white ash kiri)and can confirm that certain dullness or hollownes is present, but mostly in the feel eg. mixture of vibrations and sound of it, not in the physical behaviour of the blade´s shots itself. Shots are normally quite sharp, even sharper than the Ebenholz that I had also been shortly playing with.

With the Violin, the feel of cerain dullness / hollowness it well is compansated by a marvellous feedback priovided to a hand, great feel with satisfactory control and also with unexpected dynamics (for 5,3 mm thick blade) and after all with very stable topspin ability too. I am, as an Violin user  very fond of You having used the white ash as the outer ply for the Lissom. 

The conclusion from your answer on my question of comparing the white ash with koto that I deduce is, that koto (harder than limba) is softer than white ash, that the white ash is more of a class of really hard woods like ebony or rosewood. Please, correct me, if I am wrong. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote maktime Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/19/2011 at 8:19pm
Hi Mister Nexy,

I've sent a email to your email address of

as your Private Messages here are full.

Looking forward to hearing from you

Berry
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Nexy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/20/2011 at 11:01pm
Originally posted by szikorz szikorz wrote:

Mr. Nexy, thank you for the very clear answer and useful information. 

I am playing the Nittaku Violin (white ash, white ash kiri)and can confirm that certain dullness or hollownes is present, but mostly in the feel eg. mixture of vibrations and sound of it, not in the physical behaviour of the blade´s shots itself. Shots are normally quite sharp, even sharper than the Ebenholz that I had also been shortly playing with.

With the Violin, the feel of cerain dullness / hollowness it well is compansated by a marvellous feedback priovided to a hand, great feel with satisfactory control and also with unexpected dynamics (for 5,3 mm thick blade) and after all with very stable topspin ability too. I am, as an Violin user  very fond of You having used the white ash as the outer ply for the Lissom. 

The conclusion from your answer on my question of comparing the white ash with koto that I deduce is, that koto (harder than limba) is softer than white ash, that the white ash is more of a class of really hard woods like ebony or rosewood. Please, correct me, if I am wrong. 
 
Thank you for the reply.
Yes, I like this kind of converstaion, because I can help get better understandings about blade design.
Sometime, what you don't know is what others don't know.
And if I can know more about what others don't know, then I can have more reasons and source to keep on writing this thread.
 
Actually, I started to study at graduate school, and for the time being, I had been quite busy, one with my business, and the other one with my study. But now winter vacation came, and I can have more time to write here. So, I plan to write more articles.
 
Regarding hardness of Koto and White ash, I can not compare them in the simple way.
Because hardness is now physical data only. It is about how you feel when you play.
 
I was surprised to know that many people here in this forum were thinking KOTO is soft wood.
Actually, it's quite hard wood. Ebony, rosewood, koto, wallnut, white ash.... most woods used for surface are hard wood.
But they can be felt soft, when they are mixed with some other woods, and when they are cut thin.
 
If we cut KOTO 1mm, and glue it together with other materials, whatever other material it may be, still Koto will be felt hard.
But if we cut it 0.5mm, and glue it with ayous or balsa...then it will feel very soft.
So, it does not matter what it is in it's own character.
What matters us is what will be the composition, and thickness together.
 
White ash is also hard wood. But in most cases, it's used as thin.
There are some other reasons for these hard woods.
 
(When we use hard wood on the surface, the blade is more durable when we use soft wood.
Just think about Stiga's offensive classic, how fragile they are.
So, it's touch and more durable.
And also hard wood is good to make good function together with recent solid rubbers.)
 
When I design Lissom, I thought it needs to feel soft, even though it's hard material.
So, I used it thin, and glued to a soft feeling second layer.
I think this is very ideal composition in many ways.
 
Now I'm designing post-lissom blade.
And I now try to maxmise the soft feeling of that second layers.
I now try to focus more on the second layer, than the first layer.
And I'm now tiptoed waiting for the test result.
 
If I compare white ash with KOTO, I think both are quite hard woods.
But in most cases, Koto is used as thin.
If not, the weight of the blade will be too much.
And when they are thick, the feeling will be dull.
So, there is no reason for thick hard wood surface.
 
Are you satisfied with my answer?
 
 
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote szikorz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/21/2011 at 3:38pm
Mr. Nexy, and again, some very interesting points in your previous reply. Now, when you revealed the second layer as an issue that you focus on in your post lissom design process, many questions and thoughts come on my mind and probably others to whome it may refer, so I will try to put my questions in some order:

What is it, that makes a wood (or combination of wood layers)  to provide a good spin capability to a blade. Is there any answer on such a question?

With two of my recently "beloved" blades (Violin and Korbel) I find the upper and second layer to be made of a same kind of wood (with Korbel it is limba limba - am I correct?) and with Violin it is White ash White ash - obviously in different thickness. Concerning what you mention in your above reply, it is not only the combination of two various woods but also a combination of two identical woods of different thickness, that makes a miracle of nice feel of the blade. 

Good day 


Stiga Clipper Wood CR WRB - Fh: Yasaka Rakza 7 - Bh: Tibhar 5Q

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Nexy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/21/2011 at 7:52pm
Originally posted by szikorz szikorz wrote:

Mr. Nexy, and again, some very interesting points in your previous reply. Now, when you revealed the second layer as an issue that you focus on in your post lissom design process, many questions and thoughts come on my mind and probably others to whome it may refer, so I will try to put my questions in some order:

What is it, that makes a wood (or combination of wood layers)  to provide a good spin capability to a blade. Is there any answer on such a question?

With two of my recently "beloved" blades (Violin and Korbel) I find the upper and second layer to be made of a same kind of wood (with Korbel it is limba limba - am I correct?) and with Violin it is White ash White ash - obviously in different thickness. Concerning what you mention in your above reply, it is not only the combination of two various woods but also a combination of two identical woods of different thickness, that makes a miracle of nice feel of the blade. 

Good day 


I planned to write some more, but I think replying to your question will be also good to share my knowlegde.

As I told before, I don't really know what others don't know among what I know already.
 
 
 
It's really strange to know that you thought that double layers of the same wood will add more spin. I don't know why other brands used two layers of the same materials, but I don't think it's about adding up more spin.
 
When we make a thin sliced wood layer doubled up on each other, I can think of two effects.
 
1. It will be heavier, due to the glue used. Some woods absorbs glue much, and in that case, it gets more heavier.
 
2. It will become harder and gives more speed in the end, due to the added weight and glue.
 
Yes, there will be some difference after glueing. They will become heavier, and more durable, possible to exert more power. But regarding spin, I don't think that doubled layers will be more spinny.
 
 
Therefore, it's not about that simple way.
I will prepare an article for it, and soon you will meet it.
 
With thanks, Oscar
 
 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Lau_hb Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/21/2011 at 8:46pm
wow, I haven't had time to read everything but your posts are really really interesting and your blades look amazing, makes me want to give one of them a try!

keep up the great work! 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote szikorz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 12/22/2011 at 12:37am
Thanks for the answers Mr. Nexy, I can´t wait for the article (s). 

It is facinating to have a chance to communicate  "in person" with the expert in table tennis blades construction design. How great to live in times of new medias.

EJ´s, we are in somewhat similar condition, in much smaller and private and more playful and hobby like scale, but to combine a good blade with ideal bh and fh rubbers to a perfect harmony, it takes a lots of imagination and intuition that is, in a rough frames, similar to the blade design processes. 

So this why I appreciate so much that you take your time and talk to us like to a partner. 

THX.
Stiga Clipper Wood CR WRB - Fh: Yasaka Rakza 7 - Bh: Tibhar 5Q

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Nexy Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01/25/2012 at 12:45pm

Ayous - The Core Factor for Nexy's Second Wave

It's been a really long time since I wrote articles about the wood materials used for the blades. As a blade designer, I often receive letters suggesting what wood material compositions would be good for players. But in most cases, they don't consider the exact features. I carefully examine and consider the wood composition for each blade. It's not easy to guess the result when using  a combination of several wooden plies, but after a great deal of experimentation and experience, I can now predict what the result would be with more accuracy than several years ago. Nexy's blade designing process now relies more on thinking, rather than on actual sample tests. Of course, I still prepare samples and demo each sample for several weeks before the final production. But now the quantity and variety of these samples are much smaller than before.

Today, I will reveal some information about “Ayous” that you might be interested in.

Nexy's second wave began with the notion that ideal blades need to have a large gap between the speed when used for blocking and the speed when used for making big powerful, spinny shots. So, I tried several blade compositions to accomplish this goal. Among the blades designed on the basis of this second wave goal (LISSOM, SPEAR, CALIX, SPARTACUS), CALIX is truly amazing. With CALIX, you can feel the balls' deep touch inside the wooden surface through it's rubber when making a powerful shot. On the contrary, when you block an opponent's powerful shot, CALIX's 5mm thickness absorbs the impact of the opponent's ball. This quality is a result of its thinness and hard character. But if some other brand tries to make a blade very thin and hard, it will most likely have small spin and a bouncy feeling. So, there must be a reason for CALIX’s conspicuous feature — How can it exert this big speed gap within it's 5mm thickness?

The key factor will be Ayous. I used Ayous for three blades among those four blades designed by second wave concept. LISSOM, SPARTACUS, and CALIX has Ayous. The only exception is SPEAR. And all three blades have the Ayous as a second layer. So, what is the character of Ayous? Why is Ayous used as the second layer?

Ayous absorbs impact, but it scatters away the initial impact and then grabs the ball at a specific point. It's clearly different from the characteristics of Limba, which embraces the ball using the whole face of the layer. With Ayous the ball goes into one point on the layer, and that point scatters away the power and energy through the surrounding space. So, Ayous has two different aspects:  One is to absorb the power in one point, and then scatter it away. The other is to regain the energy and direct it on that one specific point. I can safely say that Ayous grabs the ball on one point, which is clearly different from most other wooden materials.

Kiri, Spruce, Basewood, and other common blade materials have space to absorb power. I would estimate that the absorbing point is about 1cm around. Limba can absorb the power with the whole face (about 5cm around), and Ayous absorbs the power only at one point (about 1mm around).

So, Ayous has a focus that absorbs and repels on the same spot, and that was what I really liked about Nexy’s second wave of blade designs. I wanted to make a blade that can absorb deep and return the ball with a great deal of power. This meant that I needed a material that could absorb and also rebound the ball immediately after receiving it deep into itself. As I expected, the ideal material turned out to be Ayous! Therefore, I used Ayous for three blades, CALIX, SPARTACUS, and LISSOM. CALIX was more peculiar than other two blades because of it’s extreme thinness.

By the way, I’m now working on another blade with this Ayous layer. This time, I plan to use a thicker Ayous than other three blades. It's layer will be 1.5mm thick. But, if I use 1.5mm thick Ayous, then it will make the feeling dull, and the blade weight will be too heavy with more absorption. This is not want I want! So, I will use burn Ayous to make it lighter and to increase the feeling. I believe this will be more ideal than the 0.7mm thickness I have been using. This new blade will have carbon layer under that Ayous, which will make the Ayous effect greater than as with LISSOM. So, Ayous's effect will be extraordinary in grabbing the ball deep and rebounding it with big spin and speed. This blade will be called “AMAZON.”

I’m also preparing two new blades that have a consideration for environmental issues. One will be AMAZON and the other will be called “TUVALU”

Regarding TUVALU, I can give a little hint about its characteristics. This blade is for long pimple rubber players, and it will have very different speed on both sides — it’s a combination blade. I inserted a new material, and I think this blade will surprise many pips players. The final sample will come out soon. The name of this blade is taken from an island country, which is about to sink into the sea.

AMAZON is a blade also using Ayous layers. But this time the thickness of Ayous will be almost twice that of the other three blades, and also I will use burnt material. So, I expect the actual function of this blade to be ideal.

Ok, that's all for now. I will try to write more about AMAZON later on and include some images to peak your interest.



Edited by Nexy - 01/04/2016 at 2:41am
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ttplayer92 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01/26/2012 at 7:31pm
very interesting. thank you for taking time to write this
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote king_pong Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: 01/26/2012 at 8:49pm
I have started a thread -- "Catapult" vs. "Trampoline" Effect  -- basically, I am wondering if different blades (thin, thick, balsa, composite) can generate speed/spin in different ways.  
      I would be interested in hearing your opinion on the topic, since you are an experienced blade designer.  
Thank you Smile
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